Ralph:
Did you trim the insulators and gaskets for the plenums. When mine came back from E-Hone the diameters were slightly larger than the gasket and insulators.
Regards,
J.P.

Thanks Ralph:
I want to see if the fittings have the same spherical male fitting to match the female on the rails.
Regards,
J.P.

J.P.,

To be honest, I haven't even checked that yet. The only thing I did so far was clean the insulators as there was a bunch of build-up on them, although it scraped off quite easily and now they look good as new.

Will check that next week as well, thanks for pointing that out.:cool:

Geez J.P., it's 11 p.m. here which means 2 a.m. for you back East. Don't you sleep???

Ralph

Ralph:
Friday is my late night. Each of my runners had a different bore to flange measurement, so I matched the insulator/gasket set to each runner. You'll be surprise how much comes off. When I checked the inlet flange of the head, all the insulators were flush. It seems the head intake port is larger(diameter) than the plenum runners.
Ok I'm going to bed.
Ciao,
J.P.
Ps Dremel.

Well, hopefully everyone had a nice weekend. We began to tackle the Motronic section tonight.

First thing we did was bolt on the intake plenums, but not before I snapped one last image looking down the intake port of the heads:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099369528.jpg

J.P., I checked both the gaskets and insulators to the port on the plenums and they are identical on mine. No need to remove any material, they seem to fit perfect. Then again, I did tell Ed at Extrude Hone not to go hog wild on the plenum ports and simply match the plenum to the gasket. I guess he must have listened...

I also took the time to reseal the injectors with new o-rings. May as well, it is real easy with everything disassembled. The injector o-ring kits for the 3.2L Carrera are the same as some 944 models FYI and are pretty cheap:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099369665.jpg

Here is pic of the injectors installed on the plenums:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099369752.jpg

Next was installing the fuel rails on either side of the motor. I had mine black anodized to keep more in tune with the silver/black combo rather then have them anodized gold. Here is a completed pic:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099369972.jpg

Last for the evening was installing the infamous 3 way fuel hose. As noted previously, I chose to have it redone (the left side rubber had split on the stock one) using braided stainless hose with XRP fittings. This option was not only a heck of alot cheaper then shelling out for a new hose from Porsche, but IMO also looks nicer. If for some reason the hose leaks down the road, I can simply take off that section only for replacement, no need to replace the entire assembly.

Here are the lines before being reinstalled. I also had the metal portion that ties the 3 lines together black anodized to match the fuel rails:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099370166.jpg

Here is the left side:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099370298.jpg

and here is the right:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099370395.jpg

Here is a view from overhead:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099370434.jpg

Only one small problem. It looks like Mesa Hose made the left line about 1" too short, as the fittings that connect to the fuel rail are VERY close to hitting the intake plenum when everything is tightened down. I took the hose off after snapping the images above and will have them make it a tad longer. The right side and rear hose lengths are perfect.

That's about it for tonight. Will work for a couple of hours tomorrow evening and then I am off to SEMA in Las Vegas.

Ralph

Ralph:
Standard nuts vs. barrel hex units, good idea, I wish I'd thought of that, damn.
J.P.

If you're referring to the nuts used to mount the intake plenums, then it was Steve's idea. They are jet nuts used on 962's that Steve had left over in his vast collection of hardware. When PMNA "cleaned" the attic with the intent of dumping in the trash a bunch of parts, Steve and Eric both grabbed whatever they wanted. Sometimes it comes in handy...

I know Eric has a bunch of parts left over from the still-born Carrera Cup series in the early 90's that he bought for pennies on the dollar.:D

Ralph

Ralph:
Check out page 14 from this link. It's the metric fittings.

http://www.batinc.net/files/kits.pdf

Sent you a PM.
J.P.

J.P., got it and responded back. I know Eric over at BAT in Florida (he's a good guy), thought about sending everything to him but that was in the middle of all the hurricanes and figured he had more important things to worry about even though he said no problem. A week to get to him and a week to do the lines and another week back was just too long in my book, although it turned out I had plenty of time. I would recommend him though.

Ralph

Well, another relatively slow night sorting all the details with the injection and wiring. To be frank, this is quite monotonous and boring but Steve is having a hoot! He loves this stuff.

Was able to get the left side fuel line redone this afternoon while I waited, thanks to Scott at Mesa Hose for stopping his lunch and letting it get cold while he redid the line.

Installed the 2 pressure regulators tonight and the stainless hose that connects them:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099453240.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099453521.jpg

Steve drilled a small hole in the fan shroud for the distributor vent tube to do its job. This is usually routed to the heater blower tube, but since I no longer have use for it due to running headers with no heat capability, a little improvisation was necessary.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099453631.jpg

Also installed a bunch of miscellaneous brackets and the idle air stabilizer valve. Steve installed the reference mark sensors on the back of the motor:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099453889.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099453947.jpg

The injection and wiring is just about done but can't put any more of the sheet metal on until after the plug wires are fitted. Steve will bore out the throttle body using his template and that should be ready to go in the next couple of days as well.

After I come back from SEMA we will mount the headers and Dansk muffler and hopefully the Magnecor wires and Kerry Morses' RSR heater block-off plate will be waiting for me.:confused:

Here is the motor as it sits now just before I installed the idle air stabilizer valve:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099454484.jpg

Ralph

God that is pretty. Smart, smart engine build.

Thanks Craig, but it's no 3.6 Varioram in a lightweight chassis like you have!:cool:

But your engine is hand built from case up - an admirable thing.
While my engine was a ton of work to make fit & run, yours was a process of discovery every single step of the way.

I love the in process/progress stories & pics. I did the same thing because they are a ton of fun to show. I worked on my project for about 3 hrs a day for 5 weeks - hell, I HAD to show what I was doing!:)

Ralph:
Don't forget the small line that comes from under the regulator(dizzy side of motor) as the return. It's small and leaks from age. It shows on the first pic you recently posted.
Regards,
J.P.

God that is beautiful!

I didn't forget, just didn't replace it.:) It looked okay and so I took the easy way out and left it alone. I hope I don't have to eat crow later on. Would be just my luck though wouldn't it...

Tonight was exhaust night. The headers came back from being ceramic coated, and IMO look great with the "titanium look" finish that was put on. Not only does it look better then the high heat paint finish that they came with, but the ceramic coating won't burn off like the paint will and will provide protection against rust for quite awhile. Here are a few pics:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099625599.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099625664.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099625764.jpg

After the headers and adapters were tightened down, we temporarily put on the new Dansk 2 in-2out stainless muffler with dual 84mm tips just to take some pics tonight. I loved the way my other Dansk 1 in-2 out looked and sounded and wanted to replicate it. Sold the other Dansk to a fellow Pelicanite and got the new one for the headers (or SSI's if you want heat). Dansk part number 92.512SD:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099625964.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099625991.jpg

The custom Magnecor KV-85 twin-plug wire set cut to our specs also arrived today and we will tackle them next and make sure that the lengths are correct. Hopefully we took the correct measurements and won't have a problem with wires being too short or overly long.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099626370.jpg

It looks like the motor will be going in late next week!!!

Ralph

Ralph-
Are you planning to come up with a way to restrict one of the exhaust tips? At least for driving out of your neighborhood. I had a 2-in 2-out Dansk on my 2.7 for a few hours. It's pretty loud, bada$$, but loud. My 2-in 1-out went back on. I'm thinking about having smaller tips welded on in an attempt to quiet it a bit.

By the way, your engine is a thing of beauty! It's making me want to collect the remainder of my rebuild parts, but finances prohibit at the moment.

Jon,

Nope, no plans on restricting the tips. I honestly don't think it will be too bad. I've heard motors with a Dansk type street muffler as well as with megaphones and there is no comparison, the megaphones are much louder. I think I will be fine.

Bert told me you were moving to the Bay area???

Ralph

That's cool, I'm sure it will sound great. My wife just wasn't a big fan of mine.

Yeah, we're moving north. Never thought I'd leave So Cal, but I got an offer I really couldn't refuse. My wife's employer is located in SF, so it works well for both of us. The hardest part is facing the ridiculous real estate market up there. We should be packed up and ready to go by the end of November.
-Jon

Well, as Chris alluded to in an earlier post, here is the Andial Signal splitter needed when running twin-ignition on a Motronic motor. As of right now, it is pretty much the only game in town, unless changing to a complete crank-fire ignition which completely does away with the distributor. For street use, the crank-fire option is probably less then ideal, especially if the motor will be visually inspected during emissions testing.

The Andial signal splitter is installed under the driver's seat next to the DME unit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1099774556.jpg

So how much does twin-plugging a normally aspirated 3.2L Motronic motor cost? Well, here is a breakdown of what I paid. YRMV:

(1) Used 993 Distributor (ebay) - $210.00
(2) New Distributor Caps - $85.00
(2) New Distributor Rotors - $35.00
(1) New Distributor Drive Belt - $6.00
(1) New Distributor Vent Kit - $7.50
(1) New Bosch Second Coil - $45.00
(1) New ANDIAL Signal Splitter - $525.00
(6) New RSR Lower Plug Hold-Down Clips - $45.00
(12) New Spark Plugs - $15.00
Twin Plug Heads & Lower Valve Covers - $290.00
Miscellaneous (rubber grommets, wire separators, etc) - $50.00

Total: $1,313.50

Note that the sheet metal will also need to be modified for routing the lower wires. It is a good idea to do this BEFORE you have the sheet metal powdercoated.

EDIT: Actually, the above statement isn't entirely accurate. You can also simply drill into them afterward and install rubber grommets and nobody would ever know the difference. See later pics!

Bear in mind that I purposely left out the spark plug wires. This is an individual choice. You can simply resuse your old wires for the top plugs and make up your own wire set for the bottom set of plugs using new factory parts (except for the plug wire itself) or can make up your own complete top and bottom set (you will need approx. 25' of plug wire) so everything matches up or can turn to one of the aftermarket manufacturers to construct a wire set to your specifications. I chose Magnecor, which are on the expensive side of the spectrum but do enjoy a solid reputation in the automotive aftermarket.

Ralph