Here's how I closed my duct hole. It's got 4 tiny spot welds that can be removed for the dual dizzy day.
J.P.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100146564.jpg

J.P., I used the pieces that come with the factory vent kit and nothing else. You just drill a hole in the shroud, put the rubber grommet and then fitting on. No muss, no fuss. Porsche part number 000.043.202.52

Believe me, if I didn't have to make it easily smog legal (headers off and stock exhaust bolts on in a couple of hours) I would be running different a different cam profile and injection. Even in its current configuration, will make plenty of power for my street car.

Ralph

Randy, thanks for the info. Here is a pic of the separators that Nology sells for their 10mm-12mm wire kits:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100195825.jpg

A little detective work this morning and found out that Nology buys them from someone else in the San Diego area and repackages them. Have contacted the company by phone and emailed the same pic as above to them to confirm that indeed it is their product(s). If so, I am in business because they also make them for 7mm-8mm wire diameters.

Like Hannibal from the A-Team used to say "I love it when a plan comes together"

Ralph

Looks good J.P., you've got everything all worked out and prepped already, take the plunge!!!

Ralph

What cam profile are you planning to use?

Ralph,

Why the double pulley? A/C is not going back in, is it?

Nice choice of color on the valve covers and fan. Very tasteful.

I assume the intake fuel line is a combo of the stainless braid lines and some pieces of the original line that were cut and had adapter fittings welded on? Looks top notch. Very well done.

What clutch do you plan to install on this motor? Stock clutch housing is VERY heavy. Are you going with something like a Spec clutch or a Porsche Motorsport clutch housing?

Great job on both the motor itself and the documenting along the way. Fun read for sure.

Web-Cam 20/21's are in the motor, strictly for emissions reasons. I live in the great state of California.:(

Ralph

Kevin, yes a/c is being retained as it functions perfectly (or at least the best it will in a 911) and will run it until the compressor or something else needs replacing. The a/c bracket and compressor will rob the viewpoint of most of the right side of the motor, but that's okay, the eye candy is on the left anyway.

Stock 240mm diameter G50 clutch. Flywheel resurfaced and clutch assembly balanced along with the motor internals. New PP and 3.0L 930 spring-centered disc. Still a street car for me.;)

Thanks to everyone for the nice comments and suggestions along the way. I really appreciate the support of this BBS and hope that some of you learned as much as I did!

Ralph

SWEET!!! Ralph, are you intending to migrate to an aftermarket fully programmable engine management system, or utilise the existing OEM BOSCH DME?

sweet motor...to keep the wires tidy...the older cars used the rubber clamps that hold the oil lines to the body...

look for old pics of the ST motors...or tak a peek at the oil lines of an SC in the pass wheel well...it is a strip of metal bent in a loop, with a rubber sheath...

looks pretty clean

good luck

MJ

here is a link

http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet_pics/AndialOpenHouse04/HTML/Page-150.htm

Merv, I can't legally run that here in California on the street. I would if I could but I can't so I won't (as my 5 year old son recites). The bottom end is sufficiently prepped for track use if ever taken off the road and a different cam choice with induction and muffler change is utilized.

If a manufacturer was granted CARB (California Air Resources Board) exemption. I am first in line.

Don't see that happening though, the laws are becoming more and more stringent. Maybe its time to move out of state?

Ralph

MJ,

Thanks for the link. FWIW, that car is still at Andial. Yep, those are simple adel clamps, nothing fancy. An option for sure as well.

Ralph

Well down to the nitty gritty details. FINALLY picked up the fiberglass RSR piece from Kerry Morse this weekend to replace the original heater duct piece behind the distributor. Here are a couple of pics before drilling 4 holes into it for permanent mounting and prior to painting to match the rest of the semi-gloss black sheet metal:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100568994.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100569029.jpg

I have the matching right side as well, which I don't need or will use, anyone want to buy it for cheap???

He also has the RSR fan shroud in fiberglass, too bad it's way too late but that would have looked pretty cool as well. Oh well, next engine build!

Car is coming along, getting ready for the motor installation. Here is a pic of the engine compartment this morning (new sound pad will be installed tomorrow & heater hoses will be removed and vents capped off as well):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100569228.jpg

Driver seat has been removed for two purposes: installing and wiring the Andial signal splitter next to the DME as well as removing the DME for installing Steve Wong's "break-in" chip for the 3.5L twin-plug. Here is the new chip installed in the DME:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100569390.jpg

Andial signal splitter install will be finished tomorrow as well as the mounting of the aluminum bracket that will secure both ignition coils. All wired up and ready to proceed.

As long as everything goes according to plan, Wednesday will be the day the motor goes back in and is fired up!

Ralph

I'd like to know the cranking cylinder pressure if you have the time and are curious. I'm considering almost the same build but worry about lower cyl pressure with the duration of that cam and almost stock comp ratio. I believe the OE spec is @160-170psi.

Actual cylinder pressure has a drastic effect of final HP/TQ. Even though you choose a moderate duration and centerline spec cam I wonder what the result is?


Please advise. You guys look like you're taking a sensible approach and are setting a great example of what the 'average' guy can do. Thanks.

Well, today was the day! Get the motor back in the car and see if she will actually start!

Here are a couple of "finished" pics of the motor on the engine stand last night with the RSR heater block-off and wire separators mounted:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742747.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742794.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742820.jpg


Here is Steve's beautiful dual coil bracket that he makes, anodized red in this case. Scroll down for pics of it installed in the engine compartment:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100742887.jpg


I transported the motor from Steve's shop back to Vision Motorsports for the install, a distance of about 1/2 mile. Here are some selected pics from today:

Wiring the Andial Signal Splitter with the DME unit:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743010.jpg


Motor and trans on the jack getting ready to install:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743087.jpg


Engine compartment detailed and ready to accept the motor:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743174.jpg


Motor and trans installed!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743253.jpg


Everything connected & double checked just prior to start-up:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100743380.jpg


I added 10 quarts of oil while Vision tech Mike Olsen reconnected the battery and hooked up the charger. Mike pulled the DME relay out and with one final check it was time to crank her over to get some oil pressure. Cranked for 20-30 seconds while oil pressure built up and now it was time to do it for real!

With the DME relay connected, Mike cranked her over for about 5-10 seconds and the motor coughed, sputtered, smoked and died. Mike turned the key again and almost instantaneously the motor roared to life!

At approximately 4:15 p.m., a rebuilt 3.5L twin-plug motor entered the world. She sounds sweet, gave me goose bumps. Actually a heck of alot quieter then I thought with headers and a dual out muffler, it's not much different then the prior set-up.

Mike immediately set the rpm for 2,000 rpm and left it there for 5-10 minutes while I hooted and hollered around the shop. Then he went to 3,000 rpm for another 5-10 minutes. Then sup to 4,000 rpm for another 5-10 minutes. She was purring like a kitten. I checked up top for fuel line leaks (none) and then took a look underneath for oil leaks with a flashlight and couldn't find anything. Waited till the oil thermostat opened up and then topped up the oil with another 2.5 quarts when the motor finally came back down to idle.

Steve came over and the 4 of us (Steve, Mike, Dwain and myself) had a couple of beers while the motor ran at varying rpm's. While I was at the back of the car playing with the throttle, one of the Vision guys snuck undereath of the car from the front with an oil can and sprayed a bunch of oil at my feet and then yelled to shut it off 'cause she's pissing like a sieve. I probably would have bought it if it wasn't the oldest trick in the book, hell I did it to people while at Andial.

Everything just needs to be tidied up a bit tomorrow (seat reinstalled, clean up the wiring, install the rear swaybar, etc) and will drive the car for the first time tomorrow and probably bring it home Friday afternoon.

Ralph

Ralph,

Looks awesome, congratulations. Now you can make the next Porsche run except you will be the lead car this time to make up for the ones you missed.


Chris

WAY TO GO! What a feeling. It is a beauty!
So, I must ask......when is she due to go to the dyno?

Awesome Ralph!! I've enjoyed these threads so much over the past couple of weeks. Thank you for doing such a wonderful and detailed job of documenting this experience. The time you put aside to take pictures and write all of this up is very much appreciated.

Now enjoy it!!:D

Major Congrats
 

Looks GREAT! Can't wait for the "test drive" reports!

Thanks for documenting and making it so interesting for us on the sidelines.

Cheers,

Chris

Way to go Ralph!

Maybe it's the angle or something, but I don't see the pull knobs on your splitter. I put rubber hoses around the shafts to keep them from accidently being pushed in (off) by stuff/feet behind the seat.
-Crhis