resistance on the CIS AAR. Out of whack?

Elombard · 12-04-2004, 12:35 PM

My 79 euro motor is idling way high when warm and other intermittant issues. I pulle dthe AAR and checked the resistance. It was 33.2 or so. It is supposed to be around 25. Is this enough to cause problems? My fuel pressures are all in line.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Is the AAR closed when the engine is warm? Pull the hose off and see. It is my understanding that the AAV is only open when cold. Some people recommend WD-40 if the AAV is sticky.

Elombard · 12-04-2004, 03:37 PM

hat would make sense that it would be closed when warm. The little flap inside seems to move freely, I wasnt in a position to run the car, I will try that tomorrow. Actually I may have found my problem. I think I have no voltage going to it. I was messing around with the harness and I may have inadvertently unhooked the power source. When I turn the key to the on position no voltage??? I think you are supposed to actually start the car and test voltage so I will try that tomorrow too. Blasted Winter too cold to open the garage and start at night!

rdane · rdane's Garage

WD40 is Kerosene and other nasty stuff. As it ages it drys to a sticky and hard film. You want to be carful where you use it.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Yes, try it with the engine running. I know that the little plug for the AAR is hard to reach especially with an AC compressor in the way. Cold in Atlanta? Come up to Canada to warm up.
Dane: My experience with WD-40 is positive; I find that it dissipates over time, does not harm electrical, is easy on rubber or plastic, does not leave a hard/sticky film. But don't put it on your tapioka or in the windshield washer tank. I'll start a thread on this. Cheers.

rdane · rdane's Garage

Gunter I use a can or so of the spray WD40 in my shop every week. I like it for a number of things, cleaning mostly. Kerosene is a decent cleaner but a bad lube. YMMV

Mysterytrain · 12-06-2004, 05:51 AM

The test for the AAR is to pull one of the lines and plug both openings. Do this after the engine is hot. If the idle drops down to 'normal' then the AAR is leaking. 33 ohms is on the money. I would get some carb cleaner in there a clean up the goop. Then a drop of oil on the pivot. The other possiblity is that you have a leak in the line going from the AAR to the rubber boot over the sensor plate or the rubber boot is leaking. It doesn't take much of a leak to muck things up.

Elombard · 12-06-2004, 06:07 AM

Thanks

I figured out I have no voltage to the AAR or the WUR. Its a wonder the car even ran. There is some mismatch between my 73.5 chassis wiring harness and the 79 euro 14 pin. I will have to play around with the wires and see if I can get it to work.

cmonref · 12-06-2004, 04:03 PM

The AAR, WUR, and thermovalve only have voltage when the fuel pump is running. "Ignition ON" is not enough. All are tied to terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay. That's for an SC electrical system -- don't know how you would have wired it into a '73 system.

Elombard · 12-06-2004, 04:37 PM

Right I checked it again with the car running - Nada. On my car the fuel pump runs with the key on. Like you said might be different on a 73. Thanks for the info.

cmonref · 12-06-2004, 05:23 PM

Well, a '78 SC 14-pin would have the WUR/AR/thermovalve power going thru pin 10. First stop WUR, second AAR, then thermovalve.

MotoSook · 12-06-2004, 05:34 PM

Erik, search for the table of the 14 pin connect...I've posted it a couple of towns, a pelican posted it once, and I found it to be handy.

Elombard · 12-06-2004, 05:53 PM

Yes I have it, anybody know if there is any differneces between the US and Euro cars at the 14 pin?

Thanks