how to secure a trailer?

[gchappel]

Well, for a second time someone wanted my racecar trailer a lot more than I did, so they stole it. This time the trailer had a tongue lock as well as a wheel lock http://www.trailerlock.com . The trailer lock did work- we could see where the locked wheel and lock was dragged down the road , but then we lost the trail. I am considering using explosives and anti personal mines, but back to reality. How are you securing your trailers? I am considering pulling the wheels, at least on one side- but fear they may just drag it away.
Any ideas??
Thanks
Gary

[dean]

Weld on a plate that the tongue bolts to and remove the whole mess so that there is just a flat plate.

Good luck
Dean

[Grady Clay]

Gary,

Send me your e-mail address and I will send you a 25 page draft paper that has some interesting ideas for you.
It is too large file to go through Wayne’s system.

Best,
Grady

[A Quiet Boom]

I don't have any pictures since it on loan but I made a "dolly" so I could spin my trailer around 180. From there I put a huge chain on it with a big master lock and chain it to the big oak in the backyard. For longer term storage I put the whole thing on blocks and bring the wheels inside. Another guy I know is a little more inventive. He's got a motorcycle battery mounted under the trailer hooked to a siren and a switch all mounted in a metal box with a padlock. A length of fishing line goes into the box and is then attached to a hidden hook under the gravel on his driveway. If the thieves don't know about the wire the siren goes off as soon as the trailer is moved more than a foot or so and will not stop until he opens the box and turns off the switch. Of course the fact that he can bench press around 400lbs and has tattoos all the way down one arm deters most would be thieves anyway. Fortunately my neighborhood is in a recovery process and as a result crime has dropped substantially.

[jpachard]

A very timely topic since I just picked up my trailer yesterday. I am planning on chaining the wheels together. Any other suggestions?

Cheers, James

[North Coast Cab]

I'm looking for a trailer right now and this is a big concern. I was thinking about a large chain through two side wheels.

John

[Grady Clay]

Guys,

There are typically two situations where you really need to protect your trailer (and the 911 and all the stuff.)

First is where it is normally stored. This can be in your driveway, place of business, storage lot, or other.

Second is when you are off at events. This usually can be in the motel parking lot but also (rarely) at the track.


In any case there are five levels of protection:
1) Don’t be a desirable target. Do not have Porsche or race decals on the trailer. Plain white works just fine.
2) Intimidation. A subtle blinking light, padlocks & chains, alarm decal, and more.
3) Securing the trailer. Wheel locks, padlocks & chains, positioned where someone can’t tow it, and more.
4) Alarm systems. The most effective are very noisy, however actuated. The best are ones that then call you on your cell and to a central alarm company. I have seen some where you can announce over a PA (via cell) for the perp to lie down flat or else.
5) Should someone actually get away with the trailer, there are “theft recovery” systems for the police to track.

Unexpected systems are probably most effective.

Some seemingly innocuous trailers can have $1M and more inside. Regardless of the value, it is a PITA to have to deal with these crooks. Unless someone stands there with a 12 Gauge, all these precautions are appropriate.

Best,
Grady

[unclebilly]

I saw a pretty slick setup.

Take a piece of 6"square tibibg, drill a 1" hole in it in about the middle.

Take a trailer ball that fits your tongue, drill a hole through the threaded bolt big enough for a pad lock.

So what you do is you put the ball in the tongue and close it per normal, then slide the square tubing over the tongue and lift it up so the trailer ball sticks through the hole drilled in step 1. Put a pad lock through the hole in the ball spigot (bolt?) and lock it.

Pretty hard to hook onto now.

My dad's boat trailer got stolen once, the next one he built had a chasin link on a wheel on each side. There was also a short length of chain welded to the frame with a hook to hang it. The idea was that when the trailer was parked, the wheels could be chained with a padlock so they couldn't turn far.

[vash]

for long term storage, our contractors remove the wheels. another group bought "boots", just like the cops use. if it were me, and one day i hope it is, i am gonna auger out a hole in the ground, put in some cheapo rebar, drop in an anchor bolt with an eye on it, and cobra link it to the ground,via a large chunk of concrete. look up a cobra link on the internet. i dont suggest using a cable, our pile drivers crews have a tool that can cut thru huge cables with a slam of a sledgehammer.

[gchappel]

I don't think that chaining the wheels together works any better than the trailerlock or boot that I had in place- again the wheel was locked and just dragged down the road. The hitch lock I had, don't remember the brand- but believe me it would not have been easy to cut off. I truely think they tied the hitch onto a truck and just dragged.
The idea of cutting off the tongue and welding on a plate sounds good so far. That and pulling the wheels, at least on one side as well as anchoring it to the ground is about all we can do. Keep the ideas coming- we can all learn something

[Jim Sims]

Based on experience on a farm 40 miles from the Mexican border: All locks, chains, cables and such are merely impediments; a hot wrench, abrasive cutoff wheel or chilling with LN followed by a blow with a sledge will dispatch said appliances in minutes if not seconds. Dogs too are rather useless unless someone is around; too easy to kill or distract. Low "profile", inside storage, and alarms with someone around to respond are what really works. Jim

[Grady Clay]

Whatever systems you decide on, they should be easy for you to regularly use. Even the most ingenious systems are of little use if they are too much effort to use every time.

Last summer I heard of two cases where the owners were traveling cross country and stopped for a meal. The trailer was disconnected and towed off, probably before the meal was served. I would guess the perps had it inside a barn within a couple of minutes.

In place of the quick-release pin in the receiver, I have a bolt with Locktite and a cotter pin castle nut. I have a padlock on the hitch release and one on the safety chains. The other reason I make this effort is I have always worried about a vandal pulling the pin and the trailer and hitch parting company with the tow truck.

I agree with Jim, most of this is merely an impediment to a determined thief. My theory is to make it unknown and undesirable enough for the crooks to pick on someone else. A trailer with Race Team graphics is shouting “Full of expensive tools – steal me.”

Best,
Grady

[ErVikingo]

I had Biohazard Materials stickers on mine as a deterrent...

[chrisp]

I don't have any great ideas for static storage (when not hitched up). I have a latch lock (Master padlock) and a tongue lock (Gorilla Guard) that will at least slow someone down. Like anything else, if someone really wants it, it's theirs....isn't that why there's insurance? My car is never stored on the trailer so I haven't put too much thought into that part of it.

As far as while-on-the-road parking, I have some thoughts. I use a locking pin for the reciever and a latch lock. I have also thought about padlocking the saftey chains to the truck...again, just to slow someone down while I am taking a leak, eating, etc. For overnight stuff I always try to position my trailer so it's nearly impossible to disconnect from the truck. Park downhill, uphill, against a curb, against an embankment, etc. Anything to preload the ball hitch so even if it's unlocked it won't come apart easy....and then if they can get it apart, it's very difficult to manuever the trailer away from the truck. Last but not least, if I have a friend with a car available, I'll have them park in such a way when combined with the above techniques the trailer can not be lifted.

Sorry to hear about the loss.

[3.2 CAB]

All have had good sugestions, but the bottom line is, and am sorry that it is this way, I someone wants it... they are going to get. They will bring wheels, cutters, whatever they need, these sorry BA$TARDS will overcome most any anti-theft precautions. I pulled a guy over yrs ago for driving down the road with the trailer chained to his hitch, caught my eye because it was sorta moving around too much behind his truck, bobbing up and down and around. He had just stolen it 5min earlier. The owner was very happy, the crook, went to jail, got slap on wrist, yada, yada, yada. I keep my trailer parked behind one of my trucks, and it is nosed up to the tongue, and another truck behind the first, at least they would have to move 2 trucks first to get it, can't get to it from the side or rear. I still know, if they really want it, they would bring a tractor and drag the trucks out the way, and get it. Crooks are very creative, BA$TARDS!!

[Grady Clay]

3.2 CAB,

Unfortunately I have to agree. The other side of the coin is the idiot you stopped with just chains holding the trailer is akin to the bank robber who scrawled the demand for money on the back of his deposit slip. He was just asking to get caught.

Some of the deterrents I have used are what I call the Peter Pan Defense. A simple electronic turn signal flasher unit and several 911 relays stuck to the inside. Tick-tock-tick-tock – who is going to stick his hand in the crocodile’s mouth?
Another (where you have 110V) is to take a small transformer and pry the laminations apart. This gives the distinctive 60 Hz hum of a big transformer. Even the dumbest of crooks are hesitant to stick their finger in the light socket.

I have always considered wiring an electric fence circuit to a trailer stored outside in a fenced area.

Best,
Grady

[Zeke]

Wow! They dragged a trailer with a tire skidding down the road? Where the hell were the neighbors? How far can you go before the tire looses air?

I think the best defense is to have such a nasty looking trailer that no one would want it; it least to try to sell it w/o a lot of fix up. Thieves aren't known to want to work too hard.

The complete boot that won't roll and prevents the wheel from being removed looks the best to me. Plus any other little deterants you can devise. Grady is right, but the longer they have to take to undo all your devices, the less likely they will spend the time doing so.

Don't be an easy mark.

[unclebilly]

The electric fence idea would be great except that my Dog likes to sit on my trailer...