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HELP - field repair - TDC and speed sensors
Can it be done in a parknig lot? With the Porsche tool bag?
Anyone? I got Shatz & Krum http://www.schatzandkrum.com (Sacramento area mechanic, they are only 1.2 miles away from the car) to "loan me" a TDC and speed sensor. JIm said if they work, I buy them, if not then return them. :thumb: Shatz and Krum can't even do a diagnosis until next Tuesday. Hopefully, my friend will be able to loan me his DME tonight, else I gotta' get it towed. If nothing else, tell me what's involved if I can R&R these with the engine in place. Thanks.
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Nick '85 Carrera |
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You should be able to replace/service both sensors without dropping the engine, but I think it would be extremely difficult to do so in a parking lot. I'd tow it to a shop and do the job on a lift...I believe they are located on the left (driver's) side of the engine on the flywheel, close to no. 3 cylinder and pretty high up on the engine. What exactly are your symptoms???
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Marc Morrison 1964 356C coupe '89 911 coupe 2008 Honda Accord 2008 Ford Ranger |
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You can't be serious, can you?
As M. Morrison mentioned, what are your symptoms to lead you to the sensors?
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The Fox Carrera |
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Not sure if you can replace them without a partial engine drop or not. Here is a picture that shows their location (circled in green).
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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I would at least tow it home.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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"As M. Morrison mentioned, what are your symptoms to lead you to the sensors?"
Right-On! Some more shotgun troubleshooting - Luckily a DIYer is doing time & money wasting.
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Have Fun Loren Systems Consulting Automotive Electronics '88 911 3.2 '04 GSXR1000 '01 Ducati 996 '03 BMW BCR - Gone |
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Thanks for the replies guys, actually here is my previous thread...
Intermittent NO START, and fail running Well... I have checked all but the computer and the two sensors, as I don't have a scope. I have checked: Full throttle switch - Continuity when open all the way, else open in any other position --GOOD! Idle switch - continuity when closed, else open --- GOOD! CHTS 2400 ohms at 60 degree F --- GOOD! Volume Air Flow Sensor (VAFS) - various ohms --- GOOD! Intake air temperature inside VAFS --- 2500 ohms at 60 F ---- GOOD! ISV - hums with ignition in the ON position --- GOOD! So I have a computer, ignition coil, ignition pickup(ref sensors-then), left... correct? I am going to check the ignition coil now. Just before I got it home on the a little rental trailer (yes they do actually fit, but it scraped up my front lip), I found a GAS LEAK! AHHHHHhhhh And when it barely ran it RAN SOOOOOOO RICH! Black smoke, and I can smell RAW fuel out the exhaust. This is not the symptoms I had before. Before, I would be driving and all was well, then either the ignition OR computer would die for 1/2 a second, then suddenly it would run again.
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Nick '85 Carrera Last edited by nhromyak; 12-01-2004 at 07:21 PM.. |
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Rich running is often a symptom of a faulty CHT signal. Check the CHT resistance at the DME connector. By the way, you don't have an ignition pick-up, that's what the flywheel sensors do.
Mine did the same really rich run, and my CHT showed good at the connecter. I finally found a broken wire on the harness side of the CHT connector. I fixed it and all was well. Tim
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Thanks Tim.
Tomorrow night I will pursue the values and see if they are the same between what I got at all the sensors and coil, and what the DME "sees". Thanks
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Nick '85 Carrera Last edited by nhromyak; 12-02-2004 at 08:07 AM.. |
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BAD COMPUTER...
Swapped it with a newly found friend's computer.
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Nick '85 Carrera |
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