Hi Randy,

Did the engine mounting replacement finally fix the noise?

Thanks - Steve.

Am I right in thinking that the CV joint plates shown in the picture above do not require these toothed washers and plates as there is no thin tin cover? My SC ones are like this and have no washers. I actually had to grind two of the heads off to get them apart as they were so tight so I don't think I have a bolt loostening issue!

I have those think boots too, original 37 years old with 140k miles on them! I think they are the key to keeping the bolts tight, I have no washers or thread locker at all. Never re-torqued them after removal.

Btw, may new boots are of a plastic material rather than rubber, they are supposed to be tougher and more durable than rubber. I have my doubts....

So a friend and I are doing some suspension upgrades on my car - and my friend noticed that I never installed the 34mm Axle Boot Clamps.

I can't recall if this is intentional as I replaced my CV Joints about 2 years ago - but my friend is very concerned that my CVs are now corrupted.

I have put about 5k on the car - no winter driving.

I have ordered the clamps - but can't decide among various options:

1) Just put on the clamps.

2) Get a Grease Gun and Needle and inject a ton of grease.

3) Time for a rebuild (aka clean them, new bolts, etc.)


Looking for feedback / suggestions.

JCSJCS

So installed the detailed cv axles today....no shims or nothing. I bet it will be fine, but a retourqe will be done after first drive.

Those old cv boots are made for drivin' another 37 years!

TTT, just because!

This is a great thread. Just replaced both half axles in the last two days. The info in this thread contributed by many was extremely useful. For reference, with the help of my dad we managed to accomplish each side in about an hour and a half. My job consisted of removing the complete half axles and installing new(rebuilt ones).

Quick notes:
my 86 had the M10 bolts which take an 8mm allen(hex) key. They torque to 60ft/lbs
Use a 3/4 breaker and 32mm socket for axle nut, break it free with car in reverse, parking brake on and car on the ground.
Shock bolt is 22mm.

Thanks again

Because!

It's the season!

I just did mine, and I had a beast of a time getting the send axle back in... Until I made these out of some extra bolts. Maybe they'll be of use to someone else!http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...44BD18AF4B.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...223FAB94A3.jpg
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...EC641C964C.jpg

I just clamped them in my vise and cut off the tops with a sawzall, then cut the slots with the same sawzall. A quick file to remove the edges, and voilà!

Springtime!

Looks like you have the newer style thin flange boot. You need the moon-washers with those.
You would also like to have schnorr washers.

Last time I removed my drive shafts I got new screws, 5 mm longer, and Nord-lock washers. The best lock washers.

That's not a bad idea. I may try that next time.

Hey guys Im bumping this thread. I think it is the second time I have read it in the last several years.

Anyways, I have the older 930 108 mm CVs, there are no end plates just gaskets. Im trying to figure out how reassemble them to the car without getting grease on the face of the flange. I have glued the gaskets on already.

Has anybody else used the quoted method? I was thinking maybe I could fully assemple everything to the car and then Inject in on shaft side through the "small hole" by fitting a tube or needle between the shaft and the boot (before installing in board clamp).

Any easy tricks to keeping the inerface grease free?

Also RIP Grady :(

After a torn boot I replaced one joint and cleaned the others. I bought new 12.9 M10x50mm bolts from a local fastener shop and installed with new Schnorr washers from ebay and the old moonplates. I cant see the wheel side but on the transmission side flange they do not quite get to the end of the flange. They are maybe 1-2 threads in. Grady recommended Schnorr washers and bolts with 1 to 2 threads sticking out of the edge. Others have said the M10 bolts can be torqued enough that they do not loosen even with no washers, and that the 12.9 bolts are too hard for the washers to dig into anyway. Nothing to worry about? Delete the washers? Measure exactly and have some 55mm machined down accordingly? FWIW, there were no loose bolts when I removed the old ones and they had no lock-washers.

Is there a good way to check the bolts/flange on the wheel side?

Ttt

Simply because, TTT.

Possible drive flange part no. error & question re early '85 w/915/68 100mm axles.
 

I found this info in the ever-helpful Grady Gray's post #243 in this thread... I was saddened to discover he has passed.


Read the whole thread, wonderful info, clarifications and details, especially the greasy/clean numbers and Schnorr discussion from Grady, Jim and Mr. Ferch. Two things:

1. Fortunately Grady even suggested we check P/Ns, and I did, as I wish to do this upgrade! I believe the drive flange P/N listed is in error. The 108mm/10mm bolt Transmission axle flange P/N, for both the Turbo/M491 & Carrera options above, is 930-332-209-12, which superseded 930-332-209-05 (latter no. as per 30.01.2008 PET)

Same PET lists 915-332-209-12 as 915/68 flanges, for 100mm/8mm bolt drive shafts—we don't want those!

2. My early (Jan) 1985 Carrera has a 915/68 transmission and 100mm/8mm-bolt flanges and axles, and an OS Giken "fine spline" LSD. The LSD splines matched the original 100mm axles. After the 3.6 conversion, no bolt-loosening issues, but CV joints are wearing out like tires (replaced twice last year), so an upgrade to 108mm CVs is intended soon, with the parts Grady listed above (but with 930-332-209-12 flanges, if correct).

Are these 108mm flanges a simple swap for the 915-332-209-12 100mm flanges on the 915/68 transmission? Perhaps this is obvious, but I've looked a lot and found no specific confirmation.

Thank you!

Bump

Just finished re-reading and taking notes from this thread to guide my CV reinstall. While a number of members made great contributions here, I can't help but reflect on what a blessing Grady Clay was to all of us. Thanks Grady!

Sincerely, Robert

Bump!

DC power!
This is the tool you want. 700 ft lbs of torque.
Will easily take off stubborn axel bolts. I’ve thrown away all my air tools and gone cordless. Only thing I miss about not having an air compressor is being able to blow air to clean my car.





http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1555948821.jpg

From AC 43.13-1B for questions about safety wiring CV bolts:
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-chg1.pdf
This is the bible for aircraft mechanics when a manufacturers maintenance manual is not available.
9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B
SECTION 7.
SAFETYING7-122.
GENERAL. The word safetying is a term universally used in the aircraft industry. Briefly, safetying is defined as: “Securing by various means any nut, bolt, turnbuckle etc., on the aircraft so that vibration will not cause it to loosen during operation.” These practices are not a means of obtaining or maintaining torque, rather a safety device to prevent the disengagement of screws, nuts, bolts, snap rings, oil caps, drain cocks, valves, and parts. Three basic methods are used in safetying; safety-wire, cotter pins, and self-locking nuts. Retainer washers and pal nuts are also some-times used.

pal nuts??

good sleuthing on the Aircraft manual

I carried a paper copy in my toolbox for 25 years. Feds on the ramp or building see a paper copy on the tool box, just move on to easier prey. PDF is nice on the iPad.

So what length M8 bolts are people running on 100mm CVs with the lock plates and Schnorr washers (inners and outers)?

Something I learned while doing mine is to measure your stack rather than relying on an answer to that question. There can be differences in joint and boot flanges that make the stack slightly different. YMMV

Fair enough. Thanks for the feedback!

Needed one new cv boot for my 75 911s, which brand should I buy? I like the original CV boots in my car right now.

read this entire thread and ended up with (12) M10x55 + 3 stacked Belleville Washers over Moon Plates.

Based on bolt length comparison I’m anticipating 1-2 threads poke. However, I have not completed assembly due to stripping the flange upon reassembly.

1985, 915/73 tranny, w/LSD, 108mm axles, 6 bolts inner, welded stub axle outer.

going to try and tap it first, assess, reassemble... if it feels positive, i will monitor closely.

if it doesn't feel positive, is replacing the flange my next choice? has anyone experienced this?

any advice on how to better line up the axle to the flange on reassemble would be appreciate as well since that's how i stripped it in the first place…

the car is on stands and pulling the motor/tranny is beyond me at the moment fyi.

thank you all.

If you use an actual tap on the hole with the damaged threads you will remove too much metal and the original sized bolt will not have much to clamp with/against.

Are the threads just damaged some or are they gone altogether? If damaged, even fairly significantly, you are better off running a thread chaser through it. You can even make one using a bolt with the same dimensions and thread pitch as the CV bolts. You do this by cutting a couple of shallow valleys the length of the threaded portion of the bolt, perpendicular to it. A thin cutting wheel on a die grinder or Dremel works great for this, or a file can be used (works, but much slower process). If you google, "homemade thread chaser" you'll find many pics of what I'm talking about. I've saved some pretty chewed up threads this way.

thanks rawknees.

luckily the stripped part was just the very beginning, almost more of a burr than a full strip. was able to get past it smoothly with a regular tap and didn't have to go too far.

new axles are in now – will check-in after 100 miles for re-torque and will monitor to see how the everything performed.

4 washers was closer to flush with original 50mm bolt but decided to go with 3 thinking a few threads past is better than a few threads short. 60 ft-lbs each bolt. M10 bolts and washers from mcmaster carr. moon plates and 108mm axles genuine porsche.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1568605624.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1568605624.jpg

Hi Contributors,

I plowed through this CV joint rebuilding thread as I am installing rebuilt CVs on my 83 SC. They have 100mm joints, with new M8 bolts, VW lock plates, and Schnorr washers. My only question is if anyone knows where the 33 ft-lb torque spec came from?

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html#post1922501

My copy of the Bentley has conflicting values. Also cross-referencing generic torque spec tables such as this one from Fastenal list 12.9 M8 bolts installed dry at a max torque of 31.4 ft-lbs.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20Metric%20Fasteners.pdf

I am by no means saying 33 is wrong, its just very difficult to find objective data listed anywhere and some of the online sources such as Fastenal may simply be trying to stay conservative. I checked my Machinery's Handbook and only found dimensions and strengths but no torque chart for different grades.

Thanks again for the advice. I wonder if the original post can still be edited to contain summary info with references, like the CIS for Dummies thread.

Jose
The "little white spec book" Porsche published for the 3.0s gives 42 newton meters for these 8mm grade 12.9 bolts. That's 31 pounds/feet.
Me, for some reason I got 32 lbs/ft in my head, so that's what I do.

Don't overthink this. This isn't a disk drive (pre-solid state). You'll see various numbers. How accurate is your click stop torque wrench?

This is sort of like lug nut values - I torque to 92 lbs/ft with my old torque wrench. Nothing is going to break at 95, or fall off at 90.

Good point. Its my job to overthink everything, precisely so that things dont fall off. Its difficult to flip that switch in my head to the OFF position sometimes. :D

Just to keep this thread alive with more information: I think the Schnorr site specifically says NOT to stack the washers, better to trim the bolts, use flat washers etc.

31 lbft is danger close to the yield point for 8mm 12.9 bolts, as per industry documentation and the Nordlock engineer. This is evidence of how critically designed this bolting solution is, and the necessity of proper procedures for assembly. 31 lbft is the number, not 32 or 33.

Spring is coming, bump for everybody with project plans!

Based on my readings (here and sourcing the service manual):

Axle Shaft (1985+ -- 108mm), + moon plate
M10 x 50mm - 12.9 - 83 Nm (60 ftlb)
M8 - 12.9 - 42 Nm (30 ftlb)

Is this accurate?

I wonder where I can find some Schnorr washers locally.

The moon plate was not stock, so you have to do a stack up and measure. Measure the flange, then the CV/dustboot, moonplate stack up, add up the totals and there ya go. I get my bolts from Belmetric and I use Nordlock NLX washer system.
Use an accurate torque wrench on the 8mm bolts, 30 lbft is danger close to the engineering design limit.