3.2 running problem I cant figure out

strupgolf · 05-24-2005, 06:38 PM

When I drive my car after warm-up, about 2000 rpm, I can feel a hesitation in the car. Its in 2nd, and I feel a "pulling" in the car. Its like running and someone is holding you back with a rope. Its not running badly, but I can sence a feeling that the engine is not putting out it's full power. I changed the plugs, cap, but not the wires yet, but soon. Does anyone know what this could be? I can feel it in the seat of my pants. Thanks for any reply.

ZOA NOM · ZOA NOM's Garage

Sounds like the Air Flow Meter voltage pickup wafer has a worn spot. I had a similar issue that required a refurbishment of the AFM.

Do a search on Air Flow Meter

gost · gost's Garage

Do you have a spare DME relay? if so switch it out (located under the drivers seat floor) The relay when bad causes the symptoms you mention. If not then look into a fuel delivery situation. Check the forum archives with a search on "hesitation, fuel delivery" etc.
Good luck

strupgolf · 05-24-2005, 07:39 PM

Yes, I keep hearing the air flow meter problem. Ill check it out. I get a smell of unburnt fuel every time I drive it. Ill also get a spare DME dhip to test. But how do you find a " air flow meter voltage pidkup wafer"?

jyl · jyl's Garage

No hesitation when car is cold? No hesitation at idle, or above 2,000 rpm? Suppose you're not in 2nd gear? I'm not exactly sure what the symptoms are.

Anyway, I don't know much about this stuff but did recently go through a troubleshooting a driveability problem that sounds a bit like your problem. My car wasn't running right at any rpm.

Based on that limited but recent experience, I would first check the easy stuff like are the plug wires crossed, are the plug wires mounted correctly with a detectable "click" at cap and cylinder, do the wires all measure under 3000 ohms resistance, and are all the fuel injection electrical plugs connected.

Then I would try to figure out if you have a problem with one specific cylinder. You could pull the plugs and see if one looks wrong. If the car won't idle right (unsmooth idle, lumpy exhaust note, maybe soft "pop" sounds) one cylinder may be misfiring and thus cooler than the others (a non-firing cylinder will be appx 200 F or similar to the oil temperature, while the other cylinders are closer to 300 F, measured at the exhaust ports).

If you find one specific cylinder is not firing, then you check if the spark plug is sparking, if the fuel injector is getting a signal and spraying, and (last resort) if the cylinder has compression.

If all plugs look the same and all cylinders are firing correctly at idle, then I'd look for things that could affect all cylinders. I'm really not sure about these but I've heard of people having trouble with loose vacumn hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, cylinder head temp sensor. I think problems with the DME, the DME relay, the speed and TDC reference sensors, and the air flow sensor are likely to cause symptoms more dramatic than what you are describing - like, car won't start or will run like cr*p - but I don't really know, someone who knows more will have to chime in.

Good luck!

P.S. Good, I see that people who know more have chimed in. One thing, if you are smelling unburnt fuel, that seems to suggest no spark somewhere, so I do think the plugs are worth a look at.

ZOA NOM · ZOA NOM's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by strupgolf
Yes, I keep hearing the air flow meter problem. Ill check it out. I get a smell of unburnt fuel every time I drive it. Ill also get a spare DME dhip to test. But how do you find a " air flow meter voltage pidkup wafer"?

Check this thread.

strupgolf · 05-25-2005, 09:16 AM

I just changed plugs last week, and the old ones all looked good. Im going to get new plug wires soon, and I will check the wiring for the injectors today. I do have a wandering idle, and some low "pops" at start up, but I figure its just norman, but probably not. Thanks for the help.

911mot · 911mot's Garage

Was it like this before changing plugs? If not remove them and check they are properly gapped and are of the right heat range.
Clean oily finger marks of the ceramic when refitting. The spark can track down the outside of the plug on light acceleration.
Make sure the plug lead clips properly over the plug. You have to push hard and will feel it click. Clean inside and outside of distributor cap and inspect for cracks. Clean coil tower too. Carry out road test and see if anythings improved
And don't let norman near your car again

strupgolf · 05-25-2005, 03:45 PM

Yes, all that was done. I just checked the fuel inj.wires today and I found one that was loose. The other 5 were tight, and 1 was loose, as in, it pulled off easily. I dont know what to think, but the car did run better afterwards. The car runs very well now, and I dont know if this was it, but it sure helps. All the old plugs were" even looking "as far a wear, so I cant pin down any certain cylinder. So for now, Illl just drive it like I stole it. Thanks guys. I still get a small "popping sound" after start up, but it does run nice after warm-up now.

Pyrenee2005 · 08-11-2013, 09:38 AM

I have a 1985 3.2 that I race at the track and it has a developed a hesitation when at full throttle, what seemed like accelerating out of left hand turns, the hesitation was brief less than a sec, then it went away for a few events and now its back and the hesitations are longer up to 4 sec, the hesitation is like the car wont pull and then it just takes off goes and it can do this a few times a lap or maybe a lap it wont do it. Replaced the DME relay, check plug wires, replaced Mag pickup sensors, fuel pump and coil so far. Runs great besides this at all other RPMs. Any suggestions?

DRACO A5OG · DRACO A5OG's Garage

Track is a very harsh environment, open up your DME and check for broken solder joints or send it to Steve Wong for the repair. When I visit him, I often see many on his work bench that need repair, especially from the Track Guys, call or email him and he can tell you is your DME is suspect.

Jim