I think I have posted these before....



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2 inch Flex pipe from the right to a hard pipe, then a 3 inch union and a custom curve like a 2 stroke motor cycle or Jet Ski, then a generic sport catalytic converter....added on a venturi type muffler, if its too loud a Supertrapp spark arrestor can be welded on the tip.....$600 clams including parts in here in bendoverland...prolly cheaper in the booneis.

Joe send me exotic boob pics and you can get some custom shots....

Here are the pics of the resonators on cats pic.
My sons work for a sound company and I will have them record how this set up sounds and post it. It will be a new thread, so be on the look out for it.
I think there are a lot of you who will be suprised at how good it does sound-everything stock through the cats; the resonator tips are the only modification from stock [less mufflers, of course].

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Drums

Guys,

I have a 3.6 question. I purchased Bill Verburgs old 964 3.6 and its evidently one of the very first conversions done in the country. He had some mechanics from Germany do everything I believe.

Had the car over at Patrick Motorsports for some work a while ago and was complaining about how tight everything was in the back of the car. Jim told me that it has the original 964 pulley's, rear mount and sheetmetal on it, which takes up a lot of space. I am using a set of SSI's with a stock "banana" muffler, and have very little room in the rear, and do not want to melt the 'glass RS bumper.

What did everyone else do in this area? Is there a different rear motor mount, pulley and such that would give me more working space? Believe that mine has a two or three groove pulley on the crank, and takes a bit of space for every frigging fanbelt that it drives. The motor mount bar on the back has been heated and welded and not sure if its an SC (Bill's car was an SC) or a 964 modded unit.

I know that PMS sells their own pulley's and Jim is always trying to sell his product but I could really use more room back there. Want to look at doing this right instead of cobbling up exhaust bits due to the lack of room.

Also, what did everyone use to clean up the wiring coming from the engine to the body at the 14 pin plug. Not happy with all the wiring snaking around as it is and need to either shorten it or put it in a box that cleans the area up.

Thx,

Joe A

I'm using a double pulley with twin belts. I don't see a problem.....the glass bumper has held up well....I even have a nasty hot cat pipe under there as well.

BTW...your PM box is full.

Mike,

Did you use your SC or the 3.6 rear bar and sheetmetal?

Thx,

Joe

The 3.6 stuff that Timmins provided....

All the 3.0 stuff went with the motor that I sold. I kept the SSIs and muff and sold that seperately.

here is my 3.6 conversion i have been working on for the past few weeks. Joeaksa, you are right about the wiring...there is no good way of cleaning it up. i havent done the pin configuration change yet but i am getting ready to in the next day or so. the exhaust is european headers with a flowmaster muffler. i have wrapped the muffler in exhaust wrap in hopes that it will save the paint on my fiberglass bumper. my conversion uses the stock 3.6 rear mount that has been modified. the engine tin was on it when it was previously in a sc but i am a little unhappy with it. i welded up the hole thats down by the distributor and powder coated them along with the intake and valve covers. hopefully someone can walk me through the wiring as i hate it....

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the wiring is a piece of cake send me an email and ill see if i can dig up the chart, Kevin

Pretty red.....you do that yourself?

yes, i did it my self. a friend of mine owns a powder coating business so i can do most anything. i just couldnt stand the look of it stock since it was so plain. the reds a little bright but i have got use to it now....

Hmmm, I have the non metallic ones. Bummer, I like the look.

The plastic manifolds can also be easily painted
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Rear Space.... exhaust
 

Well, on my car the builder used a smaller 911 alternator and fan assembly. My car does not need a high alt output. This creates more space. Wiring is all custom-- I am not using a DME. See pic.

You can also see my first rough airbox propotype. Cold air enters through grill in fiberglass tailbase. I think it is "better air" than what is available closer to the throttle body. And for a car that is mostly for track use (occasional, loud street driving) my car has European headers and Phase 9-type mufflers.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1132178243.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1132178296.jpg

The cold air box is similar to what the Gt3s have

Intake
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Box
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Thanks, Mahler9th!
I was wondering how to get better, colder air to the intake!
These intakes don't want to be enameled!
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Just heard back from Jim and he says that I need to switch to the Carrera style rear engine mount and console for more room. Anyone else do this?

Ideas where to get one and how much hassle its going to be to change?

Thx,

JoeA

I have the stock 3.6 rear engine mount. No issues with room using the stock cat (of course) or the crab muffler. If I was trying to showhorn in something else, and I was willing to use a homemade heater solution, then perhaps this would be worthwhile (But I like the stock heat parts)

Chris

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Got plenty of ambient air this way -

The air cooled cars move vast quantities of air through the engine compartment, the water cooled do not. That's why it is needed on 996 up but not so much on 993 down.

it is probably better to pull the air from the rear of the compartment, that is another issue I have w/ the cones, which pull the air from the more stagnant front part of the engine compartment.

The 993RS has a snorkel that curves up to the grill intake area from the air box intake.


That said the 993Cup, 993RSR etc all take their air from the stagnant forward area.