turn signal switch quick fix pictures

[blau911]

Third time I have used this thread in 10 years. Thanks for posting...

[speedo]

My wipers work, but don't lay down automatically. I have to manually stop them using the stalk. Has anybody fixed the wiper switch in a similar way?

Speedo

[BoomC2S]

I had to remove the steering wheel on my 1980SC to fix this problem. 30 minutes from start to finish (includes getting and cleaning the tools). Great post and very easy fix.

[eolson]

I just did this repair last night and figured I’d share my experience in order to maintain the tradition of reviving this thread once more.

I’ve been meaning to do this for a long time and when I finally got around to opening things up I found the typical contacts out of adjustment as noted in the first post. I was able to bend the contacts where they’re supposed to be and was done rather quickly. Unfortunately, I found myself with the same result others have mentioned but nobody has seemed to address: My low beams would now come on (but required some wiggling of the stalk) and my flashers worked great, but if the stalk was pushed forward to engage the high beams I would lose the lights altogether.

After removing and reinstalling the switch several times I finally noticed the 4th and 5th contacts below the set adjusted in the first post of this thread. What I haven’t seen mentioned here is that those do not need to be adjusted, the contacts can be cleaned if you can get to them, but otherwise as far as I can tell these are only for flashing the high beams. I thought they needed to be in contact when pushing the stalk towards the front of the car but couldn’t see any way that this could happen.

With the persistent symptom of losing the low beams with even the slightest wiggle of the stalk toward the front of the car, I pulled the switch out one more time and after looking really closely I realized that even though they looked to be touching, the low beams contacts were just barely separated, almost requiring a magnifying glass to notice. The same was true for he high beam contacts even though they looked like they were touching. After some more fine-tuning and some light sandpaper between the contacts, I managed to get them to come together much tighter which eliminates any more issues, everything works great!

The main things I wanted to share from my experience:

1. The 4th and 5th contacts are only for the flashers, clean the contacts if you can, but otherwise there shouldn’t be any adjustment needed on these.

2. Even if your contacts appear to be touching, they really do need to be a tight fit and light cleaning/sanding can be the final touch to get things right after getting a good tight fit.

Hopefully this continues to shed light on those working on this repair, especially those with the result of losing lights afterwards.

Thanks again Pelican!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VFR750]

13 years, and 40,000 miles later, I had to repeat this repair.

Nice to be able to pull up the thread and get right to the solution.

Easy fix, following the instructions.

Originally Posted by VFR750

I had the same problem, but solved it a little differently. I bent the actuation arm a little.

The big problem was, I never thought to look here. So I bought a new switch, and while swapping the switch gear, I figured out the problem. I kept the old one and returned the new switch. Unfortunately I paid for shipping (twice) and a restocking fee.

Cost of learning how to fix it myself: $25

Cost to learn it here: FREE

Value of Pelican Tech Forum: Priceless.

Moral of my story: Look in the Tech Forum First!! Great help from everyone.

[toddetch]

I'm so glad I found this thread. I've been driving with my high beams since I got the car and was trying to figure out what to do. As the original post said, 30 minutes and it was fixed!

[scotricker]

I'm gonna do this today !

I rarely , if ever , take the 911 out at night. So then last night, the first in a long time to do so, I noticed the dreaded high beams on as a mind of their own.

Search is way easier than starting a new thread. Thanks all .

[viczeva]

Thank baby Jesus for this thread. After months of going crazy with the light automatically going from high to low, I just followed the instructions here and Voila, it’s fixed! Lights stay on low beams regardless of how bumpy the road gets. Yay!

[tylermjohnson]

Won thanks for posting this! Just spent 30 min down in the garage and fixed this problem on my 87 Carrera. The pics were instrumental for me to approach this project as a beginner, so thank you!

[mikedsilva]

Wow, great thread . Pelican parts rocks!!

I just used the first few posts to help me realise I had the exact same prob on an 86 Carrera. The previous owners and mechanics had "solved" the problem by removing the fuses for the high beams!! 20 minutes in the car, I had the issue resolved, and now we have all our beams working!

Thanks again to the original poster and this excellent community

[ryans65]

I did this without removing anything, just poked a long flathead screwdriver through the hole where the stalk comes out and bent that pesky tab back. Fixed.

[Koizumi]

Best 5 min fix! Car started turning hi beams on randomly and after turning signals...

Like a few others, I unscrewed and removed the 2 side screws, pried up the plastic just enough, stuck a curved tip small jewelry/watchmaker plier onto the hi-beam contact tab and bent it towards the driver (downwards, in relation to the OP’s pics).

Done! Easy!

Thanks to the OP and the rest of the gang who chimed in with tips/info.

PS. Disconnect the battery prior to operating on your car

[PRE-H20]

Go figure....... a clearly simple 30 min fix turns into a not so easy fix for this knucklehead............

Maybe you guys can give me some insight/help.

I'm in my garage with the steering column insides exposed.



Soooo I opened up the clam shell...... found it SUPER dirty in there..... I also found some BLUE rubbery material covering the lower part of the assembly.

Anyone know what that is and is it supposed to be there?




this an up-close shot of my contacts..... I tried to wiggle them apart but it seems like they are stuck and I dont want to break anything so I didnt pry apart to hard. Is that normal to be kinda stuck together?

Also noticed your contacts look a bit different than mine....... (74 911)

standing by..... looking for some help!

[PRE-H20]

Just took 3 pictures with better lighting......

stand by.....

[PRE-H20]

[x98boardwell]

I ran through this very helpful thread to help with the same issue and it fixed the problem.

The issue is now my turn signals won't work.. Before only 1 would work but I was having wiring issues but now that I fixed the headlight low/high beam issue the signals aren't coming on or clicking either (the audible noise we hear) when moving it down or up to activate the signal..

Any thoughts? I will continue to search on this issue but since it was the same lever I figured it possibly could be associated with something I've done..

Thanks!!

[l_turn9]

Don't know if this is your problem, but I had a similar issue. After changing the Turn Signal Mechanism with 3 different new ones (!) as well as everything else that was needed to operate the turn signals, I finally saw a link on the Flow Diagr going thru the Emergency Flasher switch. I replaced it and all has been well since. In the end, I finally managed to learn a little about reading the Flow Diagrams and that pointed me in the right direction.
Good luck finding your problem -
LarryT
74 911

[Tommy Z]

Won, I just did this as my first repair. Thanks so much for such a great explanation of procedure!

[Bill Mihalic]

I see comments in this thread indicating replacement switches cost $150, give or take, but the only one I can find in the catalogs is close to $500. Am I missing something? Inflation? Is it possible to only buy part of the assembly?

While I'm at it, I'm also looking for battery ground cut-off switches to make it a bit easier to disconnect the power when working on the electrical system. Any recommendations?

This is for a 1973 911S.

I called Pelican Parts with these questions a week ago. The Porsche Specialist didn't know the answer right away, so rather than rush him and stay on the line until I got an answer, I offered to let him call me back. Twice. Still waiting.

Suggestions?

[PRE-H20]

Bill,

Interesting post...... I recently replaced my switch, so I was in your shoes just a few months ago. (see pictures above your post, PRE-H20)

Both your scenarios are correct based on my experience.

I have a 74 911.... I concluded my problem was the SWITCH itself so off I went to to try and find a 40 plus year old part that still worked. That was a painful search as everywhere I was lucky enough to find one the asking price WAS 500.00 or more. A few of them are out there and the sellers know there is a premium to pay.

THEN...... I came across a fellow PELICAN that took mercy on me and reached out to me telling me he had one and dammit it was even the EXACT part number replacement. He sympathized with me and offered to sell it to me for 150.00 !!!!!

Installed it and no issues since.

sooooo Yes.. both comments are correct in my experience.

I hope one of our guys here on Pelican step up and help you too, I really do.

I still have the HOUSING from my old one if that helps at all.....