turn signal switch quick fix pictures

[Red930]

I've been experiencing the problem where after a turn my high beams come on. It's gotten progressively worse until the high beams were staying on the whole time and the only way I could make them go off was apply slight pressure to the turn signal stalk.

Did the fix outlined in this post today and it's now working perfectly. Just bent the arm a bit and now the lights and turn signals are working correctly. Took me about 30 minutes because I did remove the wheel and the cover to get to the switch. I'm not sure how you would do it without removing the plastic cover as I could see the contacts, but not get a straight shot into the with to bend the arm.

Thank you for this post. Saved me a lot of time and money.

[mca]

It's been a few years and I had to do mine again. Fortunately I can access it just by barely splitting the plastic cover. Works like a charm.

[81SCRosewood]

Because I've read this thread so many times ... I took the steering wheel off and the bottom half of the cowl only to gain access. It took about 10 minutes to complete the fix. This is a fantastic quick fix!!!

[Dirty911]

You guys are geniuses! My car had working low beams, working flash, but no lights when the stalk was in the high position. "B" was stuck, and not making contact. Cleaned and tweaked its position and now it's good as new. I spent probably 20 minutes reading the thread a few times, took the one small screw that holds the plastic housing together on the drivers side and had it working in about 5 minutes.

[AHudson]

Oh my gosh. I had an ever worsening condition on my headlight stalk switch. 'Flash' feature died, then all brights. Then wisp of smoke appeared, so bought a new switch.

Then I pop on here to find this phenomenal thread. My switch was old enough I thought 'Why not replace it?'

My next question is "Who are you people?" who can do this job in 30 minutes?! If you can, you are up for the technical, manual dexterity, and hub- pulling Iron Man award.

Mine took 2 hours start to finish, but I did attempt to resurrect my old one prior to conceding to my new piece. Also redid the relay wires (had already been done on my car). But man, what a sense of accomplishment for a non tech like myself.

NO WAY would I have even tried w/o this thread and pics. Total hats off to Won, but also to the other posters.

One note: mines a 85 and did NOT have the securing nut behind headlight icon on switch. Just unscrewed, though has hole in shaft to presumably resist turning.

I saw another thread saying their 86 had the retaining nut, so perhaps that's the cut off year. Thanks again Pelican!

[spoke]

I have the same high beam on with my '86 930. I have another question which is how do I remove the steering wheel? I know there's a big nut in the middle but I'm not there yet. My question is how do I remove the horn pad? I don't want to pull/push/hammer the pad and break something.

[DRACO A5OG]

Disconnect the Horn Fuse or Battery Negative side for extra safety.

Grab the horn pad with both hands equally and pull. That's it.

Yes, I think it is a 24MM. Use a Deep sock and a breaker bar, Do not allow steering wheel lock to engage or you can damage the mechanism.

When reinstalling it is 36 Ft/lbs.

[spoke]

Thanks, that's the info I was looking for. Didn't want to damage the horn pad. Got all the other tools to remove the wheel. I've done this before on my 914 and A6Q.

[spoke]

Got the wheel off, adjusted the high beam contact.

One more issue I have is there is lateral play in the steering wheel. I can move it up and to the left about 1/16 to 1/8 inch or more. Quite annoying. I notice this bearing looking thing here and some plastic type debris under the shaft.

Is this a bearing and has it worn out?

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh my, yes, that is the remains of the old bushing.

You can get the 928 metal bushing or the Mitch Leland Bushing (IIRC)

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by spoke

Got the wheel off, adjusted the high beam contact.

One more issue I have is there is lateral play in the steering wheel. I can move it up and to the left about 1/16 to 1/8 inch or more. Quite annoying. I notice this bearing looking thing here and some plastic type debris under the shaft.

Is this a bearing and has it worn out?

A helpful thread:

Mitch Leland's Steering Wheel Bushing

[rallen911]

Hey! This was a really easy fix, and I'm glad that I didn't wait too long. I don't typically drive that much at night, but I found myself doing it quite a bit, and it got really annoying having to monitor the high-beams.

I've got an '86 Carrera, and I took the wheel off. It took me about 45 minutes to finish.


I also had the problem with the disintegrated bushing, and did the Leland bushing. It works like a charm!

Thanks Pelicans for saving me money to fix the REAL problems!

[cdadaa]

Thanks for the quick fix instructions (page 1). Another happy customer!

[rallen911]

So this fixed the problem of the high beams coming on when using the turn signal with the lights on, but now when I have the high beams on and use the turn signal, the lights go out.

Anyone else run into this?

[DRACO A5OG]

Did you fix all 5 contact points?

go to post 85

[rnln]

Someone please summarize all 5 springs please.
I know that...
#1 and #2 are default to touch: low beam
#2 touch #3: high beam (pushed)
#1, #2 and #3 touched: high beam flash
What do #4 and #5 do?
Thanks.

[SCadaddle]

Having had the same "bump in the road turns on the high beams" for a while now and having read through this thread and others multiple times, let me throw this past you guys:

Obtained SC a few years ago. Headlights and fog lights worked fine. Fogs would turn off with application of high beams. Then the dreaded "bump in the road high beams" occurred. Fog lights no longer worked. Drove around with high beams only. Went to drive the car the other night and the right headlight was very very dim, barely glowing. Obtained new sealed beam halogen at FLAPS and fixed that issue. Figured why stop there, so set upon fixing the stalk switch. Didn't remove steering wheel but took screws out of clam shell and separated just enough to bend the "power" spring to the right as per one of the posts in this thread. Checked operation. Low beams on and minor movements in stalk do not make the high beams come on. Still no fog lights, so with the fog light switch in the ON position I removed the round relay and upon light insertion of relay could hear/feel it click, but still no fogs. Swapped out relay next to it from the A/C and now the fogs work fine.

But here is the rub:

1) low beams work
2) Fog lights work on low beam and high beam headlight settings
3) Blue indicator for high beams in the speedo no longer work when high beams activated
4) Pulling the stalk for "flash to pass" works but can't discern any difference in lighting against the wall of my garage vs. just the high beam setting.

So I'm thinking that after I push the stalk to engage the forward position for high beams that both the high and low beams are on.

a) is that even possible?
b) is that how it is supposed to work?

The only thing I can think of is to remove the bezel from one of the headlights and take the light out of the bucket and test the circuit at the headlight with a test light to see if the low beam connection is getting power in the high beam setting. I don't have the headlight relay kit (yet) but plan on obtaining one, but in the meantime I sure don't want to fry my light switch if this is not how it is supposed to work.

Thoughts? Thanks!

[aircooled62.89]

To add current to the line, I went into my switch to fix the 'flash to pass' feature. I thought it had something to do with the above fix, but it's not. Further into the switch unit, when you pull to flash, another set of contacts connect. A little emery paper on those contacts, plus a little bend, and once again I can tell people to get out of my way in the left land...not that they have any idea that that is what I am asking them to do....

[lightbulb8817]

my headlights don't seem to work at all anymore. the high beams are the only lights that come on but that is only when i pull the lever all the way towards me and hold it (flash to pass)

does this mean its time for a new switch?

for now, i hot-wired the yellow wire to the battery on a separate toggle switch

[DRACO A5OG]

Not necessarily, have you looked at your switch? If not try the fix and make sure you address all 5 contacts, if then it still does not work order a new one.

Also consider a relay to help prevent future damage.