CIS fuel distributer cleanout w/pics

[Gunter]

WTF. Do they have a roof rack too? Or mud flaps?

[Nitrometano]

Wao, I like that hood scoops. I think that I can cool the intercooler for the a/c located in the trunk. Subaru STI style.

[zyron16]

WOW!!! I bet that you can add 400hp with that hood scoop.... I hope that those Guys make also radiators and coolant for my 1977 Porsche 911.... hahaha, what an idiot!!!!

[Grezdlitn]

I wanted to let you guys know that I have it all back together.
I have about 250 miles on it so far and there are no leaks!!!!

The idle fluctuated some the first few runs but seems to improve with every drive cycle. It is way to rich and I'm considering buying a LM-1 (big ticket item) or perhaps a local Pelican has one I can use. There will be a Dallas area get together this Sat so I'll ask around.

I suspected that my catalytic converter might be stopped up so I replaced it with a bypass pipe......you wouldn't believe the difference!

I really don't know what Porsche power should feel like as this is my first and I'd never even driven one before. I hope someone with some experience will drive it Saturday and give me some idea where I stand.

I appreciate everyones interest in this thread and the words of encouragement. I'm putting together a thread on "cleaning injectors the easy way". I'll post as soon as someone will hold the camera for me.

Mark

[jpnovak]

Mark, if you come down to Austin our group has a Gunson tester floating around. This makes it easy to set the mixture. Takes about 15 min once the car and unit are warmed up. I am sure someone in the DFW area has one.

great work!

[Grezdlitn]

I thought a update was in order. Car still didn't run well. On start up the idle fluctuated and as it warmed up when I let off on the gas (approaching stop signs) it would try to die.

I read every thread I could search and finally decided to rich. I suspected this as I stated earlier in the thread. Don't have access to a gas analyzer so I decided to lean till it just wouldn't run anymore. Viola....... after 1 3/4 turns CCW the idle settled down. Everything seems to be as it should. Starts much easier, idles at the recommended setting and the power is back.

I ran it hard this afternoon with a ambient temp outside of about 90 F and the oil temps never got over 190. I think I'm finally on top of it. I put it in the garage with a great big grin on my face!

Mark

[89turbocabmike]

Nice Mark, just a great thread, thanks for taking the time. After all that work you deserve a great running car...glad it is now

[Jim Sims]

Congratulations; you are to be commended for you skill (and courage). Jim

Tools are enabling. -Jessica Sims

[patkeefe]

Very good job, Mark. Thanks for posting it all.
Pat

[rotorhead]

Originally posted by Grezdlitn

I'm considering buying a LM-1 (big ticket item) or perhaps a local Pelican has one I can use.

You might want to consider buying a LC-1, its a lot cheaper and you can use your laptop to read the values. Also it can be mounted permanently in the vehicle and be configured to drive a regular AF guage.

[74cookiecutter]

Great work Mark! and an excellent thread too. I'll bookmark this one and hope my problems are limited to Accumulator and Filter.

[Paulporsche]

Excellent!

[brendon]

Now you've given me ideas - my wife isn't going to be too pleased with you. I promised her the next project was to finish the basement.

BTW - great work/pics/write-up!!

[Bobboloo]

I nominate Mark for "Rookie Pelican of the Year"!

This award recognizes the most informative thread of the year posted by a rookie.

You schooled the school.
Way to go!!

[schleg79]

Thanks, Mark. This post reads like a novel. My wife sees me intently staring at the computer and asks me what I'm reading - I have to reply "a fuel distributor". Got the look again...

Nice job.
Kevin

[Jim Williams]

Mark,

Some excellent repair work and the documentation thereof. I have always been told, and most of the current wisdom floating around regarding the repair of fuel distributors cautions, that they are hard to get re-sealed after disassembly. Converstations with a local Pelican, coupled with your post and the responses of several others, seems to indicate otherwise.

Here are some of my own observations, for whatever they're worth:

I've been told that the safe way to handle the springs and collars that set the pressure in each chamber is to part the two halves with the fuel distributor in an upside down configuration and when removing the parts in each chamber to keep them together and return them to the same place they were removed from. I can't vouch for the validity of this, but it seems like a good precaution.

The other observation on the dents in the diaphragm is that a fuel surge most likely caused them, maybe from a faulty accumulator at some time in the past. The dents usually occur with the deepest one nearest the entry point of the fuel. Fuel fills the bottom chambers first, and if it comes in too fast, forces the diaphragm aginst the small tubes in the top chambers before the counter-pressure builds in the top chambers. If the dents are too deep, they will cause rich running on that chamber. The collar that is pressed to the diaphragm by the spring was calibrated against a flat surface on the diaphragm, and when that surface is no longer flat, but concave under the opening leading out to the injector, more fuel can flow for the same spring pressure. Hopefully, the dents in the diaphragm on your FD aren't deep enough to affect the pressure differential between the top and bottom chambers. Trying to hammer out the dents is not a good idea, as the metal in the diaphragm will be stretched, and then can pop in and out with pressure changes.

On the subject of replacement parts for the interior of the FD, I searched for sources several years ago and finally gave up. I was told that Bosch will only sell this stuff to repair stations they have authorized to do this work. If anyone finds a source for these parts, notify me and I will post the source on my website (http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html).

Thanks for the photos, and if you would allow me to post some of these on my CIS website, I will do so, giving you the photo credits.

[Grezdlitn]

Fellow Pelicans,

Let me say that I really appreciate the accolades you have heaped on my thread. My intent is to give back some useful information as payback for all the insight and ideas that I have gleaned from this board and all of the expertise that abounds here. As my SC's
performance and appearance continues to improve I enjoy it more each day.

Jim,
I agree with the thought process of trying to keep all the internal parts in the same relationship. Invariably when I applied enough elbow grease to separate the halves the screens and hats scattered across the table. This put me in a momentary panic, so I measured the hats and springs with a sliding scale and could find no discernible differences. I have no way to measure spring tension so I took my chances here . I decided that if there was any difference in pressure or volume in the various chambers it would have to come from the allen head adjustment screws on the top of each chamber. It would require a pretty sophisticated device to measure these parameters so I elected to leave well enough alone. I might add that the aluminum hats had suffered some corrosion along the edges but the seating surfaces were in good shape.

With regard to your observations about the dents in the diaphragm I agree totally.

Be my guest for any and all of the pictures! I hope they will be of use to everyone.

I'm going to have contact my insurance company and restate the annual mileage.




I'm having way to much fun! I'm going to take ROTORHEAD's suggestion and order a LC-1. I'm still to rich (mixture !!!) and I want to be able to nail this down.

Thanks again,
Mark

[vash]

rookie of the year! i like it.

i second the nomination.

[Sunroof]

Magnifcent thread and tremendous accomplishment.

The only part of the CIS system that has yet to be touched is my fuel distributor. I do not have the confidence as a home mechanic to risk the rebuilding process as Mark did, and therefore have to rely on one who has demonstrated experience in that endeavor.

My mechanic praises Bosch factory rebuilds going for $1500 with a core submittal. That hurts!!!!!!!! Sure he is right, but thats a big chunk of change, so seeking alternatives is where I am at present.

Would you say Mark that with the time, effort and materials that $1500 is a fair price for a rebuilt tested unit?

On the other hand, I have seen advertised by other P-parts vendors rebuilt units for $500.00 with a one-year warranty that claim to "do it right". Can anyone who has had their FD rebuilt recommend a company or individual that has a proven track record in the rebuilding of FDs?

Thanks
Bob
73.5T with the 1st CIS

[patkeefe]

Mark, any updates on the state of the fuel distributor? No leaks, I hope.
I'm rebuilding my 3.0, and I'm going to pull the CIS apart tomorrow.

Like many of you guys, I have no intention of paying lots of cash for a rebuilt, just because theres a little schmutz inside the FD...