engine # and type S or not?

[degreeoff1]

Anyone have the lil red book to tell me what engine this # is 909511

It is aluminum right?

is it an "s" or not?

can 2.4 ltr jugs and crank be used in it?

Thanks

Josh

[Grady Clay]

Josh,

That is the 511th Normal ’67 911 (not 911S) built in 1966. It came with Weber 40IDA3C and has 130 hp. It is probably more valuable left stock.

There are plenty of 2.4s available and will have all the right matching parts.


Just in case you weren't aware, at 2 minutes and 3 seconds past 1:00 in the morning on Wednesday, the time will be:

01:02:03 04/05/06

Best,
Grady

[fryardds]

Originally posted by Grady Clay


Just in case you weren't aware, at 2 minutes and 3 seconds past 1:00 in the morning on Wednesday, the time will be:

01:02:03 04/05/06

Best,
Grady

And it will happen Wednesday afternoon too if you are not on Military time.

[degreeoff1]

hee hee hee,

Just heard that the aluminum case was a good 1, for my 914-6

and that is DAMN early in the am. Thinking about using it and selling off my 2.4 stuff BUT no squirters on the 2.0 right

The thing is prob seized with tar in the carbs

Josh

[Grady Clay]

Josh,

Give us an inventory of what you have and condition.

Where do you want to go with this project?

It is beneficial to write down a budget for yourself.

Without careful planning on direction, this can get very expensive very quickly. If you take your time and carefully think through each little detail, there are significant savings in cost and improvements in performance.

The 2.0 alu case is very desirable for some uses – vintage racing and early restorations come to mind. For less money you can have a nice 2.4 or 2.7 in your 914-6 conversion. Better performance and lower cost.

You are correct; the 2.0 case requires piston squirters among other mods.

“The thing is prob seized with tar in the carbs”
I don’t understand.

When you post your collection of stuff, can you post images? With good images many here can help you understand exactly what you have. That leads you to can do and what you need.

Best,
Grady

If you want private advice, feel free to e-mail me.
gradyclay@hotmail.com
I like to keep all the technical stuff on the Forum.
G

[degreeoff1]

Hello Grady,

I currently have a
-2.4 case
-2.2 "S" P&C's,
-Weber 40 ID(S) carbs
-2.4 "E" heads (rebuilt & opened up to "S" specs)
-Cams are ....and I quote S+
-electromotive crank fire ignition
-new idler and cam sprockets, new chains
-turbo valve covers
-updated tensioners
-4 rib oil pump
all the extras are basket case parts from the "E" engine

---Concerns are cams (used and reground) and mismatched rockers

I plan to send them off to camgrinder for inspection/ refurb and the rods also will go out for a balance and rebushing...aside from that I think I have a good engine that'll kick some but...track/autoX and street a "toy"

I am hoping the above will net 200hp and pull from 3500-7000k
anything will be better than the 4 banger I took out....

[Grady Clay]

degreeoff1,

You have a great set of parts that some would commit unspeakable acts to have. Forget the 2.0 and sell it to someone who has need.

OK, let’s turn this collection of parts into a kick-ass engine. There is a lot of skill work here.

Your first issue is the 2.4 case. Is it a 5R or 7R? Is the crank still in it, undisturbed? What Type number? If apart, has it been inspected for bore alignment? You will probably spend more money on the case than anything else but it is worth it.

What is the measured condition of the 2.2S P&Cs?

Great (but unnecessary) with the 40IDS3C carbs. Those are very rare. You can probably trade for 2.4S MIF and gain HP and engine originality.

Since the 2.4E heads have been ported, what else was done? What condition now? The power is in the heads.

Yes, Pelican camgrinder can point you the right direction. Clearly you want the cams and rockers refurbished. With MFI, you want stock S cams or close. Carburetors are more flexible where you can use more aggressive cams.

Can the electromotive crank fire ignition be converted to twin plug? That has several advantages. It allows you to run higher compression ratio for a given octane fuel. Additionally it produces slightly more power and the tuning is less sensitive.

Chains, tensioners, sprockets, idler arms, chain ramps and such are all pretty standard. I prefer the Turbo tensioners with safety and the later idler arm. KISS principal. Besides, it will appear original 2.4.

Did the “basket case parts from the "E" engine include the entire MFI?

What heat exchangers and muffler – stock 914-6?


With a properly done engine like this in a nice light 914-6 conversion is a real kick-ass fun car. Mine is an original six with a 2.8S, MFI, 11.5:1. Around 2000# and 275 HP. Next iteration is twin plug and a little more CR.

Best,
Grady

[degreeoff1]

Grady,

This was just sent to me from hesaputz....the one I bought the engine from..it'll prob answer a few ?'s As a side note he's a real stand up guy I would gladly do biz with again..too bad he's so far away.

Keep asking questions; the more you know the better, and Grady knows
as much as anybody alive the details on these motors. He used to come
here back in the 70's for autocross and such, and was good friends with
my buddy Howard.

In case you'd forgotten, your case, crank and rods were from a '72 T
that dropped a valve or two. The bottom end looked good, and the bearing
shells were still in the motor when I shipped it to you; they looked
good, and wear acroos the crank front to back was consistent, and still
measured standard.
Don't forget that the motors of this period were the same on the bottom
end whether S, T, or E. Early S had special rods, and 2.0 and 2.2 T's
had the non counterweighted crank, but your 2.4 bottom is exactly the
same as a 2.4 S.
Using an early Aluminum case to build your motor is good to necessary
for a racing motor, but not really needed in your case. Porsche raced
the hell out of these mag case motors at 200 - 230 hp. It becomes
important if you're making 230+ hp, running really high compression, or plan
on running sustained high RPM. I was planning to use one as I built my
275 hp 2.5, but I bought a motor from Henry instead, and traded him my
aluminum cases.
I think you can rely on Dougherty (camgrinder) for good advice on cams,
rockers, and springs, maybe send stuff to him. I'd certainly rebush the
rockers, and maybe get a set of cams from him configured for your motor
and use.

So it is a 2.4 "E" topend and a 2.2 bottom end. The above states what I know. The heads were rebuilt by one of Daves contacts out in OK and there was no induction.....I have waynes book on rebuilding and have done a few type-4 vw's before but the $$ was never so much so a little prudence now will save me later I know.

Case is a 4R/3R

I will have to learn how to measure the P&C's and do that....maybe today I remember maesuring the bore and it was spot on 84mm VERY little lip/ridge, my tool is a micrometer no specailty stuff.

MFI versus carbs....hmmm anyone trade for PMO's?? I know the carbs are more finiky but they are so NEAT to look at..a shear emotional responce from a VW guy.....how hard is the mfi to tune? and is it as reliable as the carbs?

[degreeoff1]

a pic or two of the car now...I have much time to finish it up






fixing (properly) the rear pans