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Quote:
Originally posted by tom1394racing
I used a Wurth DBS 3500 undercoating removal tool. No heat ...No putty knife...Just time consuming.

It takes off the undercoating and leaves a metal surface that is in bead blasted condition.
I'm about to weld up a "Flank" rotisserie, and my Wurth tool awaits me. Any advice??

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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT.
'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 07-05-2006, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by tom1394racing
The major effect of the longer arm is to minimize the camber change during hard cornering. The greater the distance from the tire to the pivot point (pickup point) the lesser will be the camber change.
Thanks tom... I guess it's time to start reading....

Yesterday I bought:
Race car vehicle dynamics by Miliken
Race car engineering & mechanics by Van Valkenburgh

I hope these will improve my knowledge a little...
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 911teo
Yesterday I bought:
Race car vehicle dynamics by Miliken
Race car engineering & mechanics by Van Valkenburgh

I hope these will improve my knowledge a little...
Sorry for the OT but...I thought you were building a street car, not a race car, Matteo Couldn't resist! Of course, I'd LOVE a ride in it when you get it finished. After all, Charlotte's only an hour and a half away...

Mike
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lateapex911
I'm about to weld up a "Flank" rotisserie, and my Wurth tool awaits me. Any advice??
Make sure you have a good air compressor that puts out a continuous supply of at least 12 CFM at 100 psi. Anything less than that and the tool does not function properly.

Also make sure you use heavy duty gloves and a full face mask. I ended up with a piece of undercoating stuck in my eyeball even though I was wearing safety glasses with side shields.
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:36 PM
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rrichar wrote: "I didn't see it mentioned. Whose fiberglass parts are you using? Bumpers, tail, etc."

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...I don't really know, Doc said he had someone he got all his fibreglass from and was happy w/fit & finish, fitment, etc. so I said fine, go with what you know works. I think he mentioned it was GT Racing but we'll have to wait till Doc posts again to be sure.
Old 07-07-2006, 07:36 PM
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Yep! the fiberglass parts came from GT Racing.
Hank is a nice guy and I have had good luck with his products.
So! I go with what I know
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:47 PM
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Thumbs up The wheels are in

Well Guys!
The new Lindsey wheels have now arrived.
And BOY are they nice! Mike dose make great wheels.
We got 9.5"s & 11"s with the new RSR finish. There are all pouter coated.
I also had the Kumo race tires mounted already too. 255-40 x17 front and 315-35x17 for the rear. Plenty of meat's!
The rear wheels have a n offset for use with turbo arms with out spacer.
The fronts are set up for the SC hubs.
Here is some pics of them.
We should have the chassis back from the blasters soon too.

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Old 07-22-2006, 12:36 PM
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You need to sell me that Nardi
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Old 07-22-2006, 03:00 PM
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Re: The wheels are in

Quote:
Originally posted by Porsche Doc

The rear wheels have a n offset for use with turbo arms with out spacer.

Those wheels look awesome.

Don i have a question. How are you going to clear the calipers without spacers? Are the 930 hubs different from the Carrera ones?
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Old 07-22-2006, 06:52 PM
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Matteo, I think I can answer that (correct me if I'm wrong Doc) I'm still using spacers but they are only 1/4" spacers as opposed to 22-28mm spacers normally used. I hope to mount GTP LW calipers (which will clear the Lindsey's with a 1/4"" spacer) I bought for a carrera trailing arm but now that I've switched projects I don't know if they make the right adapter. Steve W., Bill V....can it be done? I really want to keep these brakes, as I love the lower weight, etc. By eyeballing it, it appears it can work...maybe just the same ones used on the front struts? They are the right size for 3 1/2" spacing but probably wrong spacing laterally. Is it possible to have them machined if they aren't available? I looked on Brembo's site...they don't appear to have an application for this setup (GTP LW with turbo arms ).

MikeR90S- it's up to Don...I'm not going to use that wheel, if he wants to sell it to you, it's up to him. Part of the arrangement I have with him is anything I'm not going to use on the car, belongs to him. Most of the stuff I won't use has already been parted off the car, the wheel seems to be one of the last things (to be honest I don't even know if the car came with it or Don put it on).
Old 07-22-2006, 07:12 PM
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Mike
gotcha. I have the same exact Lindsey P2 (and I just sent them back to Mike to have the RSR finish as they were polished before) with the 1/4"" spacer. I thought you were using a different hub that allowed you to clear the caliper.

As per the brakes... I use the GTPs (the lw were not out yet when i bought mines 18 months ago). As I understand it the 930 arm and the Carrera arm are exactly identical apart from the fact that the 930 is shorter. I bet you will not have any problem mounting your GTP calipers.

Good luck!!!!.
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:34 PM
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Hey...MY graphics are going on THAT RIDE!!!!!
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpeastend
Does cutting out this rear seat section require additional structural reinforcement?
Old 07-22-2006, 09:55 PM
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Matteo: The mounting "ears" for the caliper are 3 1/2" on center for the turbo arm and are 3" on center for the carrera arm. The adapters for the front struts are 3 1/2" on center, so I'm hoping I could get another pair of those and somehow make them fit the rear, whether by shimming, machining, etc. The problem for me is the turbo arms went directly to Doc, so I couldn't measure them to see what I'm up against. I'm hoping someone will see this and know of a solution.

Spede: Doc explained that he had to cut the area out to fit the SRP camberboxes in. He will be putting in a rollcage tying all suspension points together and various reinforcements and gussetting for possible future conversion to coilovers. The cut out area will have crossbeams above and below which get welded to the body so I don't think I lose any rigidity there. In addition, there are some RSR mods that Doc does just like the factory employed: he welds attachments from the torsion tube to the part of the chassis directly to the side of the tranny...supposed to stiffen the torsion tube and prevent twisting/flexing due to higher loads from bigger tires & stiffer T-bars. With the torsion tube tied on either side to the longitudinal panels below the cut out and the engine compartment rear cross beam above, my guess is that the rear seat area provided very little in the way of stiffness in that area anyway. I'm sure once the cage is in , the car will be much more rigid than a stock chassis w/no mods.
Old 07-23-2006, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mpeastend
Matteo: The mounting "ears" for the caliper are 3 1/2" on center for the turbo arm and are 3" on center for the carrera arm. The adapters for the front struts are 3 1/2" on center, so I'm hoping I could get another pair of those and somehow make them fit the rear, whether by shimming, machining, etc. The problem for me is the turbo arms went directly to Doc, so I couldn't measure them to see what I'm up against. I'm hoping someone will see this and know of a solution.

Spede: Doc explained that he had to cut the area out to fit the SRP camberboxes in. He will be putting in a rollcage tying all suspension points together and various reinforcements and gussetting for possible future conversion to coilovers. The cut out area will have crossbeams above and below which get welded to the body so I don't think I lose any rigidity there. In addition, there are some RSR mods that Doc does just like the factory employed: he welds attachments from the torsion tube to the part of the chassis directly to the side of the tranny...supposed to stiffen the torsion tube and prevent twisting/flexing due to higher loads from bigger tires & stiffer T-bars. With the torsion tube tied on either side to the longitudinal panels below the cut out and the engine compartment rear cross beam above, my guess is that the rear seat area provided very little in the way of stiffness in that area anyway. I'm sure once the cage is in , the car will be much more rigid than a stock chassis w/no mods.
Mike you are correct the mount hole centers are 3.5 on the rear of the turbo arms. They also mount on the rear of the arm. On a Carrera the caliper mounts on the front side of the arm and has and has a 3" spacing.
Turbo arm

Carrera arm

Yes, We will be installing the RSR stiffeners like we do.
We took out the rear seat buckets because we are installing adjustable camber box's.
The chassis will be plenty stiff!


We won't be attaching the roll cage to the shock mounts on Mikes car though.

Hey MikeR90S,
That NARDI wheel is one of my other customers wheel.
We were just using it to move the car around with.
SorrY Man!
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:02 AM
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Mike/Don
thanks for the clarification on the difference between the 930/carrera arm.
Another question... (soyry)... What are you planning to use for the grill on the IROC tail? Custom made wire mesh (say from McMaster Carr) or stock grill?
Thanks again!
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:15 AM
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Hey Ciao,
The original IROC had the plastic standard grill.
Were doing the car that as close to orginal look.
I think that is what were using.
At least that is the one I bought for it.

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Old 07-23-2006, 08:32 AM
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The Cage that is going into the car will be like the one in the Wht/Red 72 RSR we did last year and that went to Mexico.
To make it easier for Mike to get in and out of we will be leaving the X bar type out and installing the Y style bar shone .
Cuz! Mike is gona drive it on the street bit.

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Last edited by Porsche Doc; 07-23-2006 at 08:52 AM..
Old 07-23-2006, 08:49 AM
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The Doc sent me some in-progress photos...







Old 09-03-2006, 05:32 PM
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Old 09-03-2006, 05:37 PM
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