welding flares, longhood RSR, alignment questions.

[rennch]

I just flipped the thing and did a "magnet test" on it. It looks like the bottom portion of the flare (where the turbo flare ends and the stock bumper begins) is completely bondo. So, My inclination is to blast it all off, cut a seam, pull the stock fender out, and mate it with the bumper, which I believe to be a correct RSR bumper. That said...I'm not sure if I'm up for the metalworking, so I might just contract this one out to a body guru...

[eimkeith]

Mike - that looks like GT Racing front fenders (if they are fiberglass) with a Getty Design bumper - the GT racing flares are supposedly "correct" in shape for early RSR/ST, while the Getty bumper is designed to be the width of the 930 flares, which are wider at the bottom front edge than the RSR flares are.

In other words, the RSR flare tapers in toward the bumper at the bottom front edge more than the 930 does. Does that make sense?

I'd put slits in the bumper and recontour the curve to match the flare, then reglass underneath to seal up the slits, if it were me. (in fact, we're doing just that at the shop shortly.)

[eimkeith]

D'oh! are those metal fenders?

[rennch]

Yes, they are metal fenders. Does that change your assessment? (Which was an angle I hadn't thought of). Would it help to see the underside?

[rennch]

I have been looking at some pics and have noticed that the "real" RSR does appear to have a slightly narrower front than some of the RSR bumpers. I'd rather look "authentic" anyway...

[SoCal70RSR]

Originally Posted by eimkeith

Mike - that looks like GT Racing front fenders (if they are fiberglass) with a Getty Design bumper - the GT racing flares are supposedly "correct" in shape for early RSR/ST, while the Getty bumper is designed to be the width of the 930 flares, which are wider at the bottom front edge than the RSR flares are.

This makes a lot of sense, they could've originally been mated to a GT Racing RSR bumper. The Getty one fits the 930 flare and contour.

[rennch]

So, ok...I guess my next move is to find out the width of those bumpers and see if I can find one that fits my flares. This particular bumper is made by Mark Bartosh from California.

[rennch]

This doesn't change the fact that the fenders have a *****load of bondo at the front/bottom. I can't even get a magnet to stick.

[SoCal70RSR]

Here are a few pics I've found here and the web that show this area. Can't be 100% sure but all these pics are real RSRs.

[rennch]

I would love to see a direct front shot so I could see the profile of that flare. Do you have any of those Fernando? Great pics, btw...

[SoCal70RSR]

A couple more...

[rennch]

it looks to me like this issue is about 50% incorrectly installed flare, and 50% flare fitted to a narrower front bumper. Either way, I think I'm going to have to get rid of the bondo.

[eimkeith]

yeah, I agree - get the filler out and re-assess.

[rennch]

Originally Posted by milt

The old skul grinding disc is just the hard fiber reinforced disc. Careful when you buy them at the home stores because some of them are made for concrete, etc. That's more likely to be confusing in the section where the cutting discs are, especailly if some jerk puts a concrete one on the metal cutting disc peg and you don't see the fine print. The labels are different colors, too. Go slow while grinding and cool with compressed air or a rag.

Now, some of your welds look like they are on top of the metal. When you grind the weld, look to see how thin you are getting. You can see when the thin part heats up and turns blue faster. You will need to reweld those areas. Next, look at the welds at night with a bright light just under the weld. If you see pin holes, reweld. The last step is to use a sandblaster to clean the slag out of those minor cracks you mention. That's just uneven welding and they are little fissures. You don't need any crap in there to covered over with primer and paint. It may come back to haunt you. You can fill some of these flaws with common solder. Make sure that is really clean of all flux, again, before you paint or skim with body filler. I actually go over my welds with lead to make sure they are sealed tight.

By the way, I did this "bright light" technique and it was great. I forgot to say thanks for this great piece of advice.

So, thanks Milt.

[rennch]

Hey...quick update:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/401033-worst-rsr-front-flare-welding-job-ever-post3857426.html#post3857426

[rennch]

Ok guys, I need some help here. I am now faced with aligning these front flares, and it would appear, if I'm using other cars (including real RSRs) for a reference, that my bumpers are a bit too wide. In the RSR pics, it looks like the front of the flare slopes inward to meet the bumper. If I fit mine the way they are, they would be about vertical. I'm also concerned about the wheel opening...should I make it even all the way around? Take a look at these pictures, and let me know what you think.

Thanks.














I'm thinking I might trim the front bumper to be a bit narrower, and fit the flares to that. thoughts?

[rennch]

Anyone? Eimkeith?

[eimkeith]

Definitely narrow the front bumper. Most of the FRP RSR fronts bumpers are made to line up with 930 flares (which are more common in modern times), a possible exception may be GT Racing's bumper...
In any event - the bumper is too wide for the correct look. The flare, as mounted, looks just a bit too narrow to me - I'd bring it out a little bit (an inch or so) and then attack that bumper.

Just MHO.

[eimkeith]

btw, the top of the front flare looks like it might need to come out a bit also. (check the martini photos in this thread) - that will help some with the leading edge.

[rennch]

Thanks Keith. Two questions:

1. Can anyone give me a point to point width on an RSR front bumper? I'm looking for
edge of flare <----------> edge of flare
2. Can you clarify what you mean about bringing the top of the front flare out?

Thanks