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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minnesota
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Is there a definitive "While your in there" list?
I've got four broken head studs and I'm in the process of tearing the engine down to replace all of them so I'm curious if anyone has put together a list of "must do's" in addition to what Wayne suggests in his book.
I had a Pelican look at my timing chain tensioners and mention the chains needed to be replaced since the tensioner was near the end of it's travel. Motor is supposed to have new pistons and cylinders about 30,000 miles ago according to the receipts I have from the previous owner so if they didn't replace the chains then, what else did they miss? What else should I be looking closely at? Valve guides? Rod bolts? I've spent some time searching and haven't come across any definitive lists of must do's and/or should do's. Brian
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2007 997TT-Sold 2006 997 C2S-Sold 1991 964 Turbo-Sold 1987 911 Targa-You never forget your first |
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Every engine has its own list. I have replaced too many external parts that I did not plan on. I can't even go anywhere near the inside of the engine right now ($$$). Good luck!
Dave
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Make sure to check out my balls in the Pelican Parts Catalog! 917 inspired shift knobs. '84 Targa - Arena Red - AX #104 '07 Toyota Camry Hybrid - Yes, I'm that guy... '01 Toyota Corolla - Urban Camouflage - SOLD |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: So. Cal.
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Unless the bottom end has a very large amount of miles on it, I wouldn't crack it open unless you're inclined to go for a complete rebuild. If the compression/leak down numbers are OK, I wouldn't worry about valves, but I would check the guides, especially if they weren't replaced when the P/Cs were.
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Marv Evans '69 911E |
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"C-Rations"
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Quote:
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John The Stable: 1985 Carrera Cabriolet (RoW) Sold 2002 Chevy Tahoe LT (The Wife's) 1999 Chevy Silverado (Parts Hauler) 1969 Volkswagen Beetle (Purchased From Original Owner) I'm slower than the guy in front of me, but faster than the guy in back of me. |
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As Dean Stockwell said in "Married to the Mob", "RINGS!!!!!"
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1985 M491 Carrera Slate Blue Metallic(fun car) 2001 BMW 325i (basic tranportation) http://jmforge.com |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
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A definitive list of while you are in there, depends on the definitive balance of your checking account. There is a positive colleration, I am sure.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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One would think that everything had been done when the p/c were replaced, but it appears to have been a minimal cost job.
is it burning oil? smoking? Known weak points for '87 3.2[list=1][*]rod bolts[*]valve guides[*]intermediate shaft bearings[*]clutch[/list=1]
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Doesn't want/need a 3.6L
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Quote:
![]() Here is a parts list that may be useful...just ignore some of the parts used as well as machine work as they wouldn't be necessary for what you are trying to accomplish... ![]() http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/proj911parts.pdf If they didn't split the case, chances are they didn't replace the chains, and if they did it would have been with the interlink type...some like them, some don't... I would split the case (since it sounds like it didn't happen the first time)...there will be some extra parts cost, additional cleaning involved and perhaps machine work necessary but the actual labor to split & reassemble the short-block is only about 10 hours...well worth the time and money spent imo... ![]() Ralph |
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I agree w/ Ralph, additionally if yoy replace chains then generally the sprockets need replacement as well.
Better safe than sorry, go through the whole engine, from A to Z
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
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if you can convince a good mechanic to consult with you - then you can pull the items and let him decide if they are so worn they need replacement
or you can take pics and post them of worn items to get opinions on whether they are too worn or not or - the easier way & maybe more spendy way - is to just replace everything you are in doubt about - those are 3 ways to get around the lack of experience an amateur has in evaluating wear
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"A man with his priorities so far out of whack doesn't deserve such a fine automobile." - Ferris Bueller's Day Off |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Minnesota
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Quote:
![]() Car has 150,000 miles on it. Clutch was new less than 20,000 miles ago. Once I get the cam nut tool from Pelican I can tear into it a bit more and will post pictures of the valves, cylinders and pistons. The saleman from Pelican said I can replace the rod bolts without opening the bottem end so I may give it a shot, I'm guessing they may be original. Has anyone done that before? Also the starter left me hanging one time, I'm guessing from heat soak since it was a long trip on a hot day and it hasn't doen it since so I'm going to replace it while its handy. Brian
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2007 997TT-Sold 2006 997 C2S-Sold 1991 964 Turbo-Sold 1987 911 Targa-You never forget your first |
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Doesn't want/need a 3.6L
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With 150,000 miles on the bottom end and the top end in an apparent shambles and needing to come apart again, I really have a hard time understanding your reluctance on splitting the case...but hey it's your motor...
![]() To answer your question, yes you can replace the rod bolts without splitting the case... ![]() You have a golden opportunity to do it right for many years/miles of trouble-free driving rather than the band-aid that looks like was done 30,000 miles ago. I wish you good luck! Ralph |
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