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I've used Zymol 's seal conditioner and liked the way it works. I use 303 for regular trim use but the seals can benefit from a bit more help.

here is the info on it:



"Soft seals, those around doors, hoods and trunk lids, present a number of problems. They are constantly being flexed and crushed while being subjected to hostile environments. Zymol Seal is derived from glycerin, a natural plant anti-oxidizing agent. Seal notably prolongs the useful life of rubber seals by releasing trapped solvents and restoring original moisture. Note: A properly treated seal will feel like a dog’s nose. Contains Glycerin, Avocado Oil, Glycerl Stearate (derived from Glycerin), Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil)."

It ain't cheap though so you may want to just try the straight glycerin route.

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Old 10-10-2006, 11:05 AM
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A properly treated seal will feel like a dog’s nose.

- I tried that once and the seal tried to bite me.
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:51 AM
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All good info
Old 11-04-2010, 09:59 PM
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IMHO - under no circumstances use Vasoline - I pretty much messed up a new BMW 2002 using that approach.
I use only 303 at this point and for about the last 7 years on 4-5 cars.
Old 11-05-2010, 06:53 AM
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I use Dow Corning 111 on my seals, it seems to "puff" them up a bit to get a better seal, and keeps them supple for years.
It is a white grease type of product, and I apply it with my fingers and rub it in to the seal.
Has kept the seals on various cars and bikes looking like new for me.
Bob
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:36 AM
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Talcum powder works well. I use that on occasion.
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:17 AM
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Rubber Seals

I have used talcum powder too. Seems to work well but is a little messy to put it on.
Old 11-05-2010, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo Dents View Post
Here's the secret. Mineral oil. It hydrates the rubber and won't break it down. It will keep it dark and help keep it supple.
Interesting,..Maybe my whaletail needs this......

Doyle
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:23 AM
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The 303 Protectant is great stuff, I put it on everything....almost everything, ok, rubber and vinal.
Old 11-05-2010, 10:28 AM
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talcum powder is fine to prevent sticking, but I would not call it a conditioner (i.e. it does nothing to preserve the seal)

glycerin is cheap at the drugstore and is what Porsche said to use in the 1950s

I just use a Meguairs product on vinyl and rubber - in a black bottle at the discount store
Old 11-05-2010, 10:31 AM
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Again for the Aerospace 303. And Glycerine too. A couple times a year, I'll do the Glycerine and it'll soak it all up. 303 a coupel times a year as well.
303 works great on anything plastic, and especially if it's black... like bumper pads, smiles, rock guards, window seals, etc... blacks them up nicely.
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfeMacleod View Post
Again for the Aerospace 303. And Glycerine too. A couple times a year, I'll do the Glycerine and it'll soak it all up. 303 a coupel times a year as well.
303 works great on anything plastic, and especially if it's black... like bumper pads, smiles, rock guards, window seals, etc... blacks them up nicely.
Yeah, no kidding. I used 303 on the black plastic trim pieces on my Jeep a couple weeks ago. I didn't realize they were that bad. It was astonishing the difference it made. Now the black is actually black and not some blotchy form of grey. I don't know how well it works on rubber, but if it's anything like plastic, wow.
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:16 AM
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Interesting,..Maybe my whaletail needs this......

Doyle
This is my primary need right now. I leave my car outside ( I have too many cars, working on selling to be able to store my car indoors) and I am concerned about proper care for the rubber lip on the tail, bumpers, and just trim in general being exposed to UV rays and the elements.

I read were Warren Hall (Early S man) recommended a very thourough cleaning first, with armor-all cleaner then alternate to another cleaner (can't remember what he suggested). Do this for 2 hours with a toothbrush or until you no longer see black when you wipe it with a clean cloth. Then protect it.

That method sounds good to me, but I am surprised not too many folks make a product specifically for cleaning rubber. Most say that their product cleans and conditions, but not sure how well it does both jobs, I'm guessing not as well as having two dedicated products.

So I was kind of looking for validation of Warrens method or perhaps a different method. Plus, from the reading I've done, it seems a product with high glycerin content is good for preserving seals, but would that work for the tail and trim that is exposed to UV rays?

In the end, I'll do a little more research to see if I find any better information. I'm guessing not, so I'll probably just buy a couple of different products and see which works best.



By the way, on Meguiars Vinyl #40. I used that on the black interior of my car and it left a milky residue on the surface. I had never seen that before and had always been quite satisfied with that product. Maybe my bottle reached its shelf life?
Old 11-05-2010, 12:46 PM
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call Meguiars at their 900 #
Old 11-05-2010, 01:11 PM
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This is what I use. It's not cheap at about $20 a can. Come with brush applicator, but you only want a film on the rubber. Can should last til the next millennium.

Also as a dielectric for spark plug boots and other electrical connections.


+1.

I've used this product for decades.
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfonsoR View Post
I read were Warren Hall (Early S man) recommended a very thourough cleaning first, with armor-all cleaner then alternate to another cleaner (can't remember what he suggested). Do this for 2 hours with a toothbrush or until you no longer see black when you wipe it with a clean cloth. Then protect it.

That method sounds good to me, but I am surprised not too many folks make a product specifically for cleaning rubber. Most say that their product cleans and conditions, but not sure how well it does both jobs, I'm guessing not as well as having two dedicated products.

So I was kind of looking for validation of Warrens method or perhaps a different method. Plus, from the reading I've done, it seems a product with high glycerin content is good for preserving seals, but would that work for the tail and trim that is exposed to UV rays?

In the end, I'll do a little more research to see if I find any better information. I'm guessing not, so I'll probably just buy a couple of different products and see which works best.
I seem to recall something like that as well. Perhaps the other product was Windex?

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Old 11-05-2010, 03:08 PM
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