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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 3,575
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The way Doug describes sounds like a good idea...any reason not to use this method? Are there any "gotchas" associated with this process? I always wondered if this was an option since it seems sort of intuitive.
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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11-08-2006, 06:25 AM
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Okay, for all those who are still subscribing to this thread,
since I started this post, I wanted to follow up with my adjustment results. First off, I made a STUPID mistake the first time around. Instead of using the pulley marks when turning the engine 120 degrees, I turned the distributor rotor 120 degrees! So I adjusted #1 correctly, turned the ROTOR 120 degrees, then adjusted #6 when in reality I was at #2! Then I rotated the ROTOR another 120 degrees, tried to adjust #2 when I should have been adjusting #3, and so forth. This is why my car sounded like s**t after the first time. After realizing my mistake, I did it the CORRECT way last weekend and used the PULLEY marks. Now the car purrs without clicking! Lessons I learned: 1) use the Rotor ONLY to find TDC and Z1 and nothing else 2) Doug's GO NO-GO method worked like a charm and I do not forsee EVER learning or trying the CLASSIC method! Brian
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1989 Carrera 3.2 Silver Anniversary Edition 2007 BMW 750Li 2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/285064-new-member-have-pics.html |
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11-08-2006, 09:54 PM
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