Harbor Freight for the 3/4" bar

Again, you can borrow mine if you want to swing up to Petaluma. But for that gas money, you can get the breaker from Harbor Freight - good for a couple time use.

I didin't see a 3/4 at Harbor Freight. The biggest one I saw was the 1/2 that I bought. I'll call them up tomorrow and see if I can find it.

Don, thanks for the invite but I checked to see where Petaluma was and that's quite a drive. I' probably do it to help with an engine drop or something like that.

I appreciate you guys helping me along. I'm sure I'll run into a snag here and the but I feel good to know that you guys are around.

Thanks again

There are so many things that I want to do. This stuff is fun, especially when your workingon a car you enjoy.

My next project is to sandblast by alternator fan and make it all shiny. It has alot of crud on it right now. It doesn't look like it's ever been cleaned.

I saw some sandblast containers for $99 at Harbor Frieght. After I find an air compressor I might go that route. I use to sand blast back in airline maintenance school and I remember it was fun.

Paul,

Check this out it will show you what I did on my 88. I used a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe and a deep impact socket. I used Kroil on the nut, it wouldn't budge until I did. Used a 1/2" torque wrench to get to 250 ft lbs and then used the breaker bar with a 4' pipe to get close to the final torque. One way to make sure is stop at a diesel mechanic and have them torque to final spec since they have a 3/4" torque wrench. That tip thanks to Grady Clay.
CV boot replacement

Wouldn't it be easier to leave the tires on while I loosen the nut? I have RUF wheels so I think the center cap will pop right off. Although I'm not sure how deep the nut will be since I have spacers.

Thanks for that thread, I'll give it a read.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1165471134.jpg

Paul,

Good idea to leave the wheels on to break the nut loose. Evidently there have been a few bent lugs without the wheel on. No problem with mine. A deep socket should handle it. I use impact sockets since they are built to take the abuse of an impact wrench.:cool:

That was me almost five years ago. Acquire the tools, and knowledge (with the help of this board) as you go along, and you'll be fine. My car had one slightly torn outer CV boot when I purchased her, and repacking all 4 CVs (replacing the boots) was my first 'real' project. Grab some towels, plan to get messy, and go for it. I've found working on my car to be just about as much fun as driving...but not quite :)! I didn't even have Michael's excellent thread to guide me way back when...

I'm gonna skip the repacking for now. I thought I had heard that the CV joint on the rear outer axle was not replacable and I'm not sure how long the boot has been torn, probably a while so I just bought 2 axles and I'll be popping them in. My biggest challeng it seems will be the axle nut.

Make sure that the CV joints have a good ammount of Moly grease in them.
Get the Bentley Carrera Repair Manual, you'll love it!
For the axle nut:
Parking brake on, in reverse gear.
Wheels on the ground, center cap out, 3/4-drive socket with short 3/4" extension, breaker bar with a 4 ft. pipe on it.
Use your body weight, step on it.

When installing the new axles, snug the bolts on the flange (Transmission side) first all around, then do the final torque.
To deal with Allen bolts properly, make sure the inner hex is clean so the Allen key will go fully in.
If the bolts look too worn, use new ones with new Schnorr washers.
Search other threads for details.
Get the Bentley!

Thanks Gunter. I have the Bentley manual, it's awesome. I think I'm ready to tackle the job. I'll report back to let you all know how it went.

Thanks for all the advise guys!

I'm ready to replace the rear axles this weekend. I'll try to loosen the stub axle nuts with an inpact wrench but I'm not sure how that will go. Next step will be the breaker bar and so on. This will be my first big project. The anxiety is building :)

Unless you have some mega air pressure and a super impact I would even bother unwinding the hose. Just get after it with the breaker bar.

If you can't find one locally check here:
http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B0007P8AKU/ref=pd_rvi_gw_1/105-0377052-0174866

Thanks for the link. I have a 1/2 drive breaker bar that I'm going to try first. If I bend it then I'll hunt for a 3/4 drive. I'll try Sears, not sure if they carry them or not. Last time I checked Harbor Freight only had the 1/2 drive. (THat's where I bought mine) $9 bucks!

Good luck this weekend. Please let us know how it goes. I'm not far behind you. This look familar?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166759122.jpg

Sears should have one. If not, check K-mart since they now carry Craftsman stuff. I have the Craftsman 3/4 bar and the equivalent inch sized socket. It is much more sturdy than the 1/2 in. Craftsman bar I have.

I've got an I/R impact wrench, and at 90 psi, it has no problem with the stub axle nuts...that's about the only place I do use an I/R on my car.

Keith
'88 CE coupe

1/2"???:confused: For 220 ft-lbs.???:rolleyes:

Where, in the many replies, did you see anybody suggesting 1/2" drive ??? :(

It's surprising how many people ask for help/advise and then ignore it. Why even ask???

O.K. sprinkle some holy water on it and try 1/2". :D :D

Gunter, Iv'e had someone offline tell me that they used a 1/2 for their axle nuts and got the nuts off. The reason I will try that first is because I have those tools. If that doesn't work, I'll get the 3/4 drive that most recommend. I'm not ignoring anyones advise. If it wasn't for the advise that I get on these boards I wouldn;t be doing most of this work. Happy Holidays!

I do have a 450 ftlbs IR Imapct that I will try before the breaker bar. I'll let you guys know if that works.