Distributer cap. Time to replace?

[Early_S_Man]

Joe,

The bulk ignition cable needs to be silicone rubber or Hypalon insulated, copper or stainless steel core. Belden, Packard 440, and Autolite SS 550 were good brands to get in the past.

I believe Accell, MSD, Magnecor all have good quality 7 mm cable available.

It has been suggested that a '60s vintage, solid wire core 'universal' $20 - $40 Accell set of wires for any V-8 Chevy or Mopar would serve as donor for a 911 set just by cutting off the V-8 spark plug connectors. By specifying a '60s wire set, the distributor connectors would fit the 911 cap directly. Then all that would be need after the donor wire is cut to proper length ... is to crimp on the six M3 connectors.

[rnln]

Originally posted by Early_S_Man

Your spark plug wires can be rebuilt -- just replacing the cable with bulk wire from a parts store, hotrod shop, bike shop, etc.

All that is needed is 14 M3 crimp connectors,and aboout 25 feet of bulk 7 mm spark plug cable. The new M3 crimp ends are available at Porsche and Mercedes dealers, and can be crimped by them, sometimes as a courtesy.

I have seen many use bigger wire between 8mm to 10mm for "stronger spark and more performance". Is it true? and is it posible?

While doing several things in my car this weekends, I opend up my cap and wipe them with sand paper since they look ok, yes they have some carbon burn at the tips. But $13 bucks for a set of cap and rotor are CHEAP to make the car run a little healthier. Too bad I need them quick, can't wait for shipping. Does anyone know if I can get them at local autopart stores. Are they ok to use?

Thanks.

[Por_sha911]

Originally posted by rnln
I have seen many use bigger wire between 8mm to 10mm for "stronger spark and more performance". Is it true? and is it posible?

As far as I have heard, thicker wires are just more insulation. Many folks change to "performance" wires for the cool colors only to find that they don't work (or last as long) as the standard factory wires. I replace my wires with Bosch and they work great.

[nhromyak]

Intermittent running can be many things on a DME car.

Did you replace or swap in your spare DME relay?

Check your voltage at idle and at 2500 rpms. It should not be above 15 v (IIRC).

I had an overvoltage that took out a resistor on my AFM and took out my radio. I had 17 volts at idle.

About a year later my DME intermittently died. This took a LOT of diagnostics.

Good luck.

[slodave]

Originally posted by nhromyak
Intermittent running can be many things on a DME car.

Did you replace or swap in your spare DME relay?

Check your voltage at idle and at 2500 rpms. It should not be above 15 v (IIRC).

I had an overvoltage that took out a resistor on my AFM and took out my radio. I had 17 volts at idle.

About a year later my DME intermittently died. This took a LOT of diagnostics.

Good luck.

My problem was solved months ago. Turns out it was one of three relays controlling my alarm. I forgot to number them before I switched their positions, but it fixed the stalling. I just need to replace all three relays.

rnln, I have a set of 8.5mm wires on my car. Really can't tell a performance difference.

Dave

[rnln]

slodave,
is it an after market alarm or factory one? Have you ever measure your current lost when key off, door closed? I asked this question because I have this problem and since you were working on your alarm, I hope you did.

[slodave]

Originally posted by rnln
slodave,
is it an after market alarm or factory one? Have you ever measure your current lost when key off, door closed? I asked this question because I have this problem and since you were working on your alarm, I hope you did.

It's a Clifford (older). I like it, as it is a keypad and other than the relays, quite reliable. No, there was no indication of a power drain. The car started to either lose power momentarily and then pick up again or it would quit and either turning the key would get it restarted (also had to punch in the alarm code) or worst case it was dead for about 20 minutes, then decided to start up again. It's been a couple of months now and the problem is gone.

Dave

[morrisjm1]

IMHO, if you're asking the question, its time.

[Superman]

I personally believe that cap and rotor replacement should be done fairly frequently. Once those parts have been in service for 12K miles or so, the engine seems to respond favorably when they are replaced. I am nearly stunned that your cap and rotor have been in service well over 100K miles.

[kach22i]

I replace my distributor cap and rotor at least once a year (3,000 miles) sometimes twice. I'm sure it's a sign that I could stand to get the distributor rebuilt, but that will have to wait. In the mean time Pelican Parts is making money off me.

[Superman]

Let me illustrate. When a 911 is cruising at 3000 rpm, there are one hundred fifty separate high voltage electrical signals going through that cap and rotor on their way to a spark plug. ONE HUNDRED FIFTY lightning bolts PER SECOND. At 6000 rpm there are THREE HUNDRED lightning bolts PER SECOND.

If the distributor cap were clear instead of opaque, it would look like a hellacious lightning storm is occurring in there.

High voltage signals are so excited, and so finicky, that if you take a graphite pencil and draw a line on the inside of the cap from the each electrode to the bottom of the cap, none of your spark plugs would fire.