SWB 911R...the beginning

[Tom Sch]

Originally Posted by kenikh

Slate Gray...period (pardon the pun):

[Matt Monson]

Originally Posted by emptyo

I think this thread shows that just about ANY car is worthy of saving. Nice job on the wheel Lars.

I think it just shows that Lars can save any car. I don't know if even he thinks it's really worth it. You'll have to see mine. It's pretty damned bad.

I like the slate gray, a lot!

[SCWDP911]

Hey Lars, how about something really different? Ruby Red. I mean you don't see it ev, well, I don't se, well, actually I DO see it nearly everyday!

Seriously, how about the orginal Ruby Red (Paint #6402, Code 015). It was one of the first 911 colors used I think. I only have this crappy picture, but I know someone here has an absolutely gorgeous example... maybe they will see this and post. It would definitely be a little MORE different for you car in my opnion. I still am amazed everytime I catch up on your work here. That car is going to be stunning. Your work sure is...

[SCWDP911]

here is a better one (pic that is)... not sure whose car this is but it is a real beauty...

[dondarnell]

Looks like we are on same path. Here's where I am at.

[Jim Horton]

+1 on Slate Gray

[EarlyPorsche]

I am biased, but my 66 has Green Granite on it. Looks just like gray but has a little more to it. Doesn't look green at all if that is what you are looking for.

[Duckworth]

Probably not on the list - but a really nice color. Wow.......thanks fellow pelican.

[jasam]

Originally Posted by Duckworth

Probably not on the list - but a really nice color. Wow.......thanks fellow pelican.

One of the best 911 pictures ever...



1+ for slate gray

[speedo]

I hesitated to post until I had made some headway....underside is dressed and waiting suspension. Wurth underseal is applied and looks great. Brakes are rebuilt and ready to be bolted up. I rebuilt/restored the steering rack and added turbo tie rods. The rack was filthy...and needed a lot of elbow grease to clean up
tie rods are next
Sooo much easier to install on the bench than underneath the car.
I needed to incorporate aditional spacers for the earlier steering rack


Bump steer spacers

[speedo]

Fits right up....I love these cars. the crossmember and front struts and brakes are off a 1986 carerra . The steering rack all cleaned up looks factory new with bump steer spacers installed

[speedo]

Fits right up....I love these cars. the crossmember and front struts and brakes are off a 1986 carerra .
The Aarms freshly powdercoated

And all the associated parts
Now to install the tbars...22mm in the front


And end fittings

[speedo]

22mm tbars

Cross member, and tbars/bushings installed

[speedo]

fresh turned rotors



cleaned up dust guards
Adding the calipers

[speedo]

These were painted on the bottom and primered on the top. The trunk will get painted body color, and where the struts bolt up will need to be disassembled and repainted when the car gets back from the painter. I just wanted to get them ready for the struts to be mounted up.

struts getting ready

[BlueSideUp]

Nice work! Is your underbody protection essentially POR15 with Wurth High Build on top of it?

[speedo]

New correct ball joints for the carrera struts/calipers

Replacing th ball joint is soooo much easier upside down


Now the tie rods




Done

[speedo]

The brake lines and sway bars will go on after painting...less to mask off

[lateforlunch]

good stuff dude

[Grady Clay]

Lars,

I recommend you use a ’69 and later steering rack with your setup (even after all your hard work
cleaning the early one ). The two racks are slightly different ratio and you will notice a
significant difference in ‘feel’.

The ’65-’68 is about:
1.65:1 and 2.8 turns lock-to-lock.

The ’69-> is about:
1.8:1 and 3.0 turns lock-to-lock.


While everything is easily accessible, you should repair the aluminum cross member (red arrow).
That little piece of aluminum is what retains the height adjusting lever keeping it from working its way
off the torsion bar splines and lost.





Another is to test the range of adjustment of the caster-camber plate. You may want to remove some
metal on the chassis where the clamping bolts contact the edges of the openings.

Remember to grease the bores in the struts, the wedge pins and ball joint pins.

Looking good!

Best,
Grady