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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Quad Cities IA
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Amazing work.
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Jay '08 E350 Wagon '74 914 gone '72 T gone |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southampton NY
Posts: 466
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Speedo
Great work. Very impressive. I have a schematic of the original 911R oil system with part nrs. It might be of help if you don't already have it. Drop me a line and I'll email it to you. Martijn
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'66 3.2 "Blue Car" '73 3.0 "Orange Car" '78 3.2 "Brown Car" |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Congratulations Lars. Nice job.
Isn’t it nice to have that ‘Pipe Stretcher’? I’ll bet you keep it next to the ‘Wire Stretcher’. ![]() I think we were both surprised to see that 911 carb pre-heat pipe in your chassis. I learned something. I have seen posted on Pelican (I think) the front trunk oil plumbing for a 911ST. As I recall it was very similar to a 911R (two fender coolers). That might be worth some research. As I recall, Porsche put both ‘tees’ on the right side of the trunk. I have always considered it more desirable to put one on each tide to better balance the flow to the parallel coolers. Be sure and get or make a rubber gasket between the oil filter console and the inner fender. That must be well sealed to prevent road dirt from getting in the engine compartment. Best, Grady
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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop) Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: trumpistan
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I caught up today after missing a few weeks of your awesome work. I can't say how impressed I am at your thoroughness, thus am a bit surprised to see that you are staying with the original single circuit braking system instead of converting to the later dual circuit?
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Enemy of the State Brandolini’s Law: It takes hours more time, research, and writing to debunk misinformation than it takes to spread it. |
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While I'm waiting..
For a couple of parts for the oil system that I need to place/mount the oil console...I decided on a smaller (friendlier) task in the interim. On all my other projects that have used external coolers , I have run aeroquip lines. I like the l stainless braided line for both look and functionality, as well as resilience in case one gets pinched. I also think the AN fittings are a nice clean touch. What I don't like is the fact that most of the Porsche pressure fittings are metric 30mm and to go with the AN fittings requires an (expensive) adapter.. So the average oil line requires going from a metric 30mm to an adapter, to the AN fitting, to the areoquip hose, to the other end of the hose with a similar AN fitting, to another adapter, back to the 30mm metric fitting
![]() I took a look at all the used oil lines I had pulled off cars over the years and I had 4 of the short lines that return oil from the tank to the screw on 30mm fitting at the engine mounted oil cooler (pre 74 as after the fittings go to a push on) ![]() These all had the fittings crimped on to the hose...why couldn't I reuse the fittings? I measured the approximate barb od and made several calls to the hydraulic shops to see what pressure line they would have that would also have a collar/crimp sleeve that would work with my fittings. I also checked with BAT (Mocal) and the only option that came up repeatedly was a lite blue aeroquip line with a 3/4" id...too small as the od of the connector's barb is 7/8". After frustrating myself repeatedly, I ended up calling Chuck Moreland on a friends suggestion and Chuck understood the problem and actually had both fittings and compatible oil line. I explained that I wanted to reuse my fittings and he provided me with the necessary length of cloth braided line and the crimp collars. ![]() |
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Dremel time
I need five 90 degree elbows and two straights. Fortunately, with the four lines, I have exactly that. I just to carefully remove the crimps without damaging the barb ends. Slowly at first
![]() number one ![]() trial fit the barb end and collar into the hose ![]() Perfect...now for the rest of the fittings ![]() This was not so much about saving$$ as the line is as expensive as the braided aeroquip...but more keeping the number of necessary components to a minimum, and reusing the original german fittings will look more period correct than the braided stainless line and the anodized aluminum fittings. |
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rear bumper progress
There were several issues with the fitment with the rear fiberglass bumper that needed to be addressed
![]() The gap at the top of the rear valence underneath the lid was too great. I needed to ad some material so it got flipped and 6 layers of glass ![]() ![]() Now it needs to be trimmed ![]() The "wings that bolt up to the bottom of the longitudinal were seperate and needed to be fit, drilled and mounted. I lined everything up and laid up the first couple layers of glass...starting to look like a car ![]() I'll pull the bumper off the car tomorrow and lay in addition glass to reinforce the wings. My lights are the R versions from TRE...they look great, but will require some additional work to fit. I guess I'll get the rear of the car set up and then move back to the front. |
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Back to the oil system
I took a few pictures of the oil console from a friends 72 car. I posted looking for pics from the engine compartment of a rear R ontis and the 911S registry...I guess everybody was busy...no replies. As my basis was a 912, my inner right rear fender wall was uncut. However, it did not share the same "stampings" as the 72, so there was no obvious place for the console. Here is the 72
![]() ![]() Here is the 66 912...the only similarity is that they are the same gauge steel ![]() The console...I need to make a template. Nobody had the gasket that is sandwiched between the console and the inner fender wall. That would have been the perfect template. It is on order and I am impatient. I have cardboard ![]() I can make the dang template ![]() ![]() It fits. Here is waht the console will look like with all the 90 degree connectors attached ![]() Last edited by speedo; 04-20-2008 at 06:15 PM.. |
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console continued
I'll use the template to cut...once I am comfortable with the position
![]() Here goes ![]() Gotta massage the opening. Cleaned up and de-burred and installed ![]() In the fender well ![]() And with the 90s installed ![]() ![]() Done...pretty close to the 72 install ![]() |
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rear lid gets some attention
The rear lid hold down straps were beconing...the rear bumper was mounted and clecoed
![]() The lid was rough fit ![]() These edges of the drip seal edge were too proud and needed to be metal worked down for the lid to follow the body contour ![]() ![]() Final fit looks good ![]() Need to clean up the rear for paint...pull the bumper and glass in reinforcement where the holes were drilled to mate to the rear quarters. Starting to look like the butt end of a car. ![]() |
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WOW this is simply AMAZING to see, I Love checking in and watching the progress
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Shawn 77 Targa with 2.7 My never-ending work in progress that has been off the road since Mar 2004 ![]() |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northeast
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great progress Lars!!
Please refresh me on this project... your goal is to be able to race in a specific class, right? What weight goal, if any, are you thinking you will meet? (car weight when build finished) Again, Great Werks here!!! Keep on goin' man... I am soo adicted to this fantastic build it is not even funny!!! ;-) Bob
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I live for 911 tweaks... |
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Midwest R Gruppe
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Scott 69E Coupe 2.2S LtWt 73.5T Coupe |
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On an aside...
I scored an early wooden wheel which may punt the prototipo that I restored...
![]() ![]() Tomorrow is a "mental health shop day"...and I have a lot to get done ![]() ![]() |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: North of Exit 17
Posts: 7,665
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That wheel needs to be in a glass case!
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- 1965 911 - 1969 911S - 1980 911SC Targa - 1979 930 |
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front bumper
It is time...rear of the car is pretty much finished
![]() The left rear quarter panel is glassed out and the R light housings installed. Around to the front... ![]() The front of the fenders needed to be built up to match the contour and length of the hood...18 layers of glass and resin later ![]() ![]() The drip reinforcement needs to be replaced first on the front bulkhead ![]() fitted and lined up ![]() Welded in place and cleaned up ![]() Primed ![]() And lower bulkhead undercoated ![]() |
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Location: Cambridge, MA
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Lars, where did you source the drip reinforcement? I need to do this on my E.
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Tru6 Restoration & Design |
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bumper fitment
This early fiberglass repro will need considerable work
![]() lined up with the forward wheel arches and temporarily fit ![]() The bulkhead bolt attach points...are not attached ![]() The bumper needs to be refitted and the correct locations marked to be trimmed and glassed in place here ![]() trimmed and located ![]() And glued in place ![]() Mount holes need to be found ![]() ![]() |
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Rubber Latches
With the bumper remounted...the attach points glass reinforced , the rubber hood latches will complete the front bumper.
Lined up ![]() Lower latch attached ![]() Marked and drilled for latch attach ![]() And attached ![]() I detached the bumper, and again layered glass over the inside holes for the lower latch screw holes for reinforcement. |
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Back to the rear lid...grill
I sourced a 914 grill from a recent swap meet. The original Rs had some variations on a theme...but most wore a vertically oriented expanded metal diamond shape grill mounted underneath the lid
![]() ![]() These dimples used to attach the grill need to go away ![]() Once removed, it is time to flatten the grill by removing the 90 degree edges...very carefully ![]() this is what I wanted to see ![]() the bases of the dimples need to be ground down...to the original mesh without destroying it in the process...there are several that look like this ![]() As they are spot welded to the mesh...a careful had and several minutes apiece with the dremel wheel and I get to the mesh ![]() I am not sure which side of the lid will get the mesh...so I cut it to fit the top side (the underneath is a smaller dimension than the top) ![]() I like the top mounted look more than the underneath mount (the center spline of the decklid will be removed) ![]() I already have some lightweight "U" channel rubber to use to slip over the outside edge to trim the lid out. The 914 grill worked great and will be durable...$5 well spent ![]() Last edited by speedo; 05-01-2008 at 09:12 PM.. |
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