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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Location: The Beave, OR
Posts: 6,288
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Are you sure you want to remove the center spline of the decklid? That's kinda unique to SWB 911s like the R. I know you're not building a "real" one, but keeping it would be a "better fake".
My $.02. ![]()
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Doug Currently Between Porsches PART OF MY SOUL: '09 Boxster 2.9 PDK, '86 911, '76 912E, '06 Cayman S, '90 911 C4, '74 911, '78 911 Targa, '01 Boxster, '70 911T, '99 Boxster (#2), '72 911T, '88 911, '99 Boxster (#1), '84 911 Turbo Look, '73 911 Targa, '88 944 |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: trumpistan
Posts: 9,897
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Quote:
I agree. I like the pic with the grill underneath and the center bar in place. Just my opinion though but it is 'R'.
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Enemy of the State Brandolini’s Law: It takes hours more time, research, and writing to debunk misinformation than it takes to spread it. |
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Slumlord
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,983
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Did you cut out the front section (where the hood latches) and replace it? I can't tell from the pictures, it looks 'rough' then it looks 'good'.
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Max Sluiter
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The new software must be acting up for me. I can't see pictures
![]() I like the grill on the topside. It looks more finished and smooth. I think the originals look too rough and wierd in that grill area.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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I'm in agreement with you both
The center spline is non-existent on the R lids...but I like the grill more... mounted somewhat "flush" on the top. I had planned to leave the spline in for that application. The lid is fiberglass, and the spline doesn't add any weight, and it does add rigidity to an otherwise flexible lid. So...top mount it is. Thanks for the constructive criticism
![]() Tomorrow, the horn and fog cutouts for the oil cooler. And the oil lines need to find their way from the inside the front trunk(oil cooler) to the right rear quarter panel. I can probably cut the lines to length and get them ready for crimping too. I also need to cut another hole in the inside right rear fender wall to run a crankcase vent those to the top of the oil tank...and then another line from the tank to a catch/breather probably mounted back in the rear of the quarter in front of the tailight housing. |
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Jeez, you welded a car to an oil system!
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63 356 2.1 Rally Coupe 75 911M 2.7 MFI 86 Sports Purpose Carrera "O4" 19 991.2 S |
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gearhead
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
Posts: 23,542
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Bah. I hate the museum mentality that has infected the Porsche faithful of late. It's nothing personal against you, but one reason that I like what Lars is doing here is that he's building a car to be driven. Ferry would be proud...
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1974 914 Bumble Bee 2009 Outback XT 2008 Cayman S shop test Mule 1996 WRX V-limited 450/1000 |
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Quote:
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63 356 2.1 Rally Coupe 75 911M 2.7 MFI 86 Sports Purpose Carrera "O4" 19 991.2 S |
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gearhead
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Loverland, CO
Posts: 23,542
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I know. I did too.
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1974 914 Bumble Bee 2009 Outback XT 2008 Cayman S shop test Mule 1996 WRX V-limited 450/1000 |
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bumper one more time and H-4s
I have reinforced the attachpoints for the front bumper
![]() But I am not running foglights and the reinforcement for the fogs needs to go ![]() I temporarily fitted the H-4s ( more work than anticipated) and needed to create the retaining bracket for the base of the light ![]() I will rivet and glass them in place...located prior to securing ![]() fitted and riveted ![]() and finally glassed in place ![]() ![]() |
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Jeez, you welded a car to an oil system!
Thanks Luke...
Due to the size of the Setrab in the right front fender...(one big cooler vs two smaller ones) my oil fitting to and from the cooler will extend inside the front trunk. Here are the intake and exits for the cooler ![]() I had decided recently to stick with the metric fittings and Chuck from ERacing suggested that I reuse me existing fittings. I added the 22-30 metric adapters for the Setrab ![]() And this is where the lines need to penetrate the double walls of the upper longitudinal to get back to the outside of the car ![]() ![]() I'm using a specialty grommet called "seals-it" to protect the oil lines from the edges of the body channels that they will pass through...look like this initially ![]() As I had a body cavity to pass through (two layers of metal), it would have been difficult to use a "bulkhead fitting". |
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Time to get destructive
The hole saw gets put on the field
![]() one hole ![]() two hole and trim ![]() outer side of the fender wall ![]() One -two holes and trim ![]() Now I know where the sand from the media blasting has been hiding...look closely at the picture and there is a half cup of media in the cavity...yes, I did vacuum it out Mom. Time to run the lines ![]() And tweak the "Seals_it" fittings ![]() ![]() |
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final fitting looks great
Here are the lines unsecured as yet...but run through the fittings
front trunk ![]() ![]() ![]() and exit...very clean ![]() It would maybe have been easier to use two smaller coolers...oh well, the one larger cooler will handle up to a stressed 3.0, so I'm ok with that. Two weeks as a count down to the painter. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: northeast
Posts: 4,527
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I appreciate your using the word "tweaks" as it is my moto, S.O.P. & what I live for!!!
Great work again Lars... keep on making progress with the 2 wk window approaching for paint!! How about a few pics of the Yellow screamer w/ the Red & Black stripe down her middle so we can drool at that also !!! Bob
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I live for 911 tweaks... |
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A diversion...
I got my chops busted for spending time turning a roadsign into a new smugglers box cover...oh well. With strut tower braces in 911s, the smugglers box cover almost interferes as it is raised. I never understood why it is hinged at the front and latched at the rear. This is about to change. The cover...now cleaned up
![]() hinges mounted to the rear to ease the access with a strut tower brace installed ![]() fitted ![]() old latch ![]() removed...I will re-use the latching part ![]() here ![]() and here ![]() |
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more...and another diversion
The lid being fitted for the latch
![]() Notch the front bulkhead as a place to secure the re-used latch ![]() And secured ![]() Lighter, tighter and makes more sense as it opens backwards and avoids a strut tower brace. Battery may get mounted in here also, haven't decided. Still too much time on my hands...the front trunk hinges before the weight loss. ![]() The thick steel reinforcements in the angles are a pain. Drilled for lightening holes, and ready to be sandblasted and primed ![]() Last edited by speedo; 05-11-2008 at 08:41 PM.. |
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More serious stuff
TRE supplied the turn signals for both the front and rear.
![]() After removing the additional strap for mounting the fog lights ![]() And glassing in a 3/16 steel wire to reinforce the lower lip of the spoiler ![]() I cut the horn grill cutouts for air access to the cooler ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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front turn signals and marker lights
I talked with Dave at TRE about how to mount the turn signals and decided to mount the cups behind and the lenses on the surface
![]() ![]() and lenses ![]() position lights ![]() ![]() mounted ![]() ![]() turn signal housings glassed in from behind ![]() |
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I don't think this part is available from Porsche
The breather from the motor to the 72 oil tank, and then the breather from the oil tank back to the inner fender wall and to the air filter/snorkel
![]() I will be running air cleaners, not the the factory housing, but I still need to vent the crankcase to the oil tank. In case of needing to run a line from the oil tank to the carbs, I will create a 2 way bulkhead fitting in the rightside inner fender wall ![]() I need to use some sheet and 1" round tubing ![]() cut ![]() tacked ![]() ![]() ![]() trimmed and fitted ![]() Inside the wheel compartment looking up towards the oil console...nice fit ![]() |
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there is a reason I put off the roll ball...
It is a major PIA. After looking at all the available roll bars and the cost to ship, I decided to make my own. The tubing is .120 wall and will (even though this is a street car) be built to vintage SCCA spec so that if I want to add the rest of a cage, I will be able to. Main hoop
![]() temp fitting ![]() feet...I will weld the bases in, tap them and then bolt the roll bar to the feet ![]() ![]() main hoop and feet fitted ![]() rear legs and feet fitted and welded in place. I still need to weld in the shoulder belt brace and the diagonal ![]() At least I am halfway through with the roll bar. Last edited by speedo; 05-11-2008 at 08:49 PM.. |
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