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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunter View Post
tight Time Table.

Flywheel Grind?
New Sachs Power Clutch Would Be Nice.

Now Is The Time To Check/replace Some Seals On The Transmission.
Condition Of The Guide Tube?
Recondition The Cross Shaft, New Bushings, Seals.
Check The Release Fork For Wear And Cracks.

Check/repack The Cv's?

Rebuild The Starter?
+1

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Old 08-03-2008, 07:01 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #141 (permalink)
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I noticed the machete on the wall ,too. But EVERYONE knows what that's for..... to protect vandals from getting their hands on your 11 blade fan, of course. Good luck on the engine. Be sure to have a machine shop do your heads and case, not worth the hassle and I figure if you don't have an engine stand you most likely don't have anything to grind valves. If you can affored it go with a new set of Mahles. Also, be sure to check the squirters in your cam towers to see that thay are open and clean. I assume you'll be using all your "on top" stuff from your other engine?
Re: Engine stand.... You can get regular a engine stand for about $49 and in Excellence Magazine there's an ad in the back for a 911 yoke "ring" that fits into a standard engine stand whole pattern.... it's only $130. or less.
Moving your engine around: Get a small square floor dolly 22$ at HomeDepot, (4wheels) 20" x 20", then have some friends help you muscle the engine onto it. Now you can run a jumbo floor jack under the dolly and raise it to the engine stand height. After you finish the engine you can lower it again onto the dolly with the floor jack.....so your can now lift it up under your car ( ready on jack stands about 30" off the ground ) and up into your engine compartment. I recommend you drop you existing engine always with the transmissionn attached. With trans attached you will need to slide everything so center of gravy is nearer to the engine/ trans split line.... you'll see what I mean. Also, The mistake most people make is trying to install an engine while the car is only raise at the back. THE CAR MUST BE LEVEL SO THE ENGINE GOES STRAIGHT UP SO THE 4 MOUNTS MEET EVENLY. 2 at the engine cross member and 2 at the transmission. Don't forget to r/r the earth strap at the trans end. Glad to help if you have any questions. I was were you are now and you only get better as you do more and more. I used to think how nice it would be to have a place you can work on engine while others worked on theirs. Kind of like I got better playing guitar hanging playing along with people better than me. regards, RS
Old 08-03-2008, 11:27 AM
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Had no idea you were this far along.... good for you. Maybe my advice will help for next time. RS
Old 08-03-2008, 11:29 AM
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Hi RelaySwitcher,

You must have started reading this thread from the "end". The rebuild is done. The engine is off of the engine stand and he is getting ready to reinstall the engine....

But I am sure someone else will profit from your suggestions!
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:33 AM
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Excellent write-up. Great work!
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Old 08-03-2008, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911 tweaks View Post
Great job there mca !!
Can you do me a favor... can you take 3~4 pics of the cis on the engine... top view looking down, all 4 sides as front back, r & l side... please
This would help me greatly as I am cobbling together a cis sys from many systems... please refresh my memory what yr this engine is coming out... 81 maybe ?
Thanks in advance, I hope, as these pics would be a TON of help to me... see my pics of where I am... "now where do I begin ??
Thanks
Bob
I will PM you and get your email and send pics there. I have TONS of them.

The CIS is coming off of the 82 and being put on the rebuilt 80.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunter View Post
Tight time table.

Flywheel grind?
New Sachs Power Clutch would be nice.

Now is the time to check/replace some seals on the transmission.
Condition of the guide tube?
Recondition the cross shaft, new bushings, seals.
Check the release fork for wear and cracks.

Check/repack the CV's?

Rebuild the starter?
Flywheel already done.

Ordering clutch and tranny seals tomorrow.

CVs will be cleaned and repacked.

Not sure about the guide tube and the cross shaft ... I need Kevin's help with those items since this is all new to me. Hard to determine when something is worn when you have never seen a new one before.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:34 PM
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15 hours in the garage today. Focus was on cleaning up CIS and tearing down the items on top of the old engine for use on the new one.

Here is a pic of the finished CIS minus the fuel injectors. I pulled all of them and decided to go ahead and order some new injector sleeves. The seals were super brittle.



Can someone please help me identify these to connections indicated by the ? on the blue tape? I am holding the WUR connection to provide a point of reference. Both of those connections were strays - found them after pulling CIS.

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Old 08-03-2008, 06:41 PM
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I think the one on the bottom goes to the heater blower motor which you are hopefully doing away with. The other goes to a black round thingy that has a vacuume hose on each side, I forget what it does (decel valve). I dont see it on the top picture I think it attaches to the manifold some where...sorry not much help.
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:04 PM
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thanks mca... I will check my inbox for pm or you can email me direct at bobf@design-associates.us
By the way, I thought I remembered something similar to my resto to yours... I am working on an 82 targa tub of which I have the matching # hole in the side case, cis, etc and a donor 80 long block of which I am trying to figure out where what goes where

Thanks for the offer to send pictures... I cant wait as this will save my bacon and tons of time on the already 7+ yrs resto...
Bob
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elombard View Post
I think the one on the bottom goes to the heater blower motor which you are hopefully doing away with. The other goes to a black round thingy that has a vacuume hose on each side, I forget what it does (decel valve). I dont see it on the top picture I think it attaches to the manifold some where...sorry not much help.
The heater blower seems right on. Thanks for that!

The other one is still a mystery. The decel valve doesn't have any current and has a vacuum hose that runs to a nipple on the cruise control servo.
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Old 08-04-2008, 05:53 AM
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Thumbs up

mca:
Yes on the plug for fan blower; I think the other one is for something called Thermo Time Switch which you may not have; no problem.

Check/replace the 2 plastic bushings in the shaft that actuates the throttle linkage. (The item on the left in your picture)

After installing the new injector sleeves, some Vaseline on the new O-rings makes it easier to get the injectors in.

You absolutely need to clean and paint the shroud! You'll love it!

Attached picture with painted shroud plus Fan Blower, A/C, and Cruise delete.

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Old 08-04-2008, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunter View Post
mca:
Yes on the plug for fan blower; I think the other one is for something called Thermo Time Switch which you may not have; no problem.

Check/replace the 2 plastic bushings in the shaft that actuates the throttle linkage. (The item on the left in your picture)

After installing the new injector sleeves, some Vaseline on the new O-rings makes it easier to get the injectors in.

You absolutely need to clean and paint the shroud! You'll love it!

Attached picture with painted shroud plus Fan Blower, A/C, and Cruise delete.


Gorgeous. Looks fantastic!

I cleaned my shroud last night. Honestly it looks super so I don't plan on painting it. The only rough area is where the plug wires come across the fan shroud to 4,5, and 6. The wires will cover it up though.

My thermo time has a connection. Got that one marked.

Regarding the injectors ... Bentley says to soak o-rings in fuel for a few mins before installing. Is that correct?

Also, I am assuming that I can put the injectors in after intalling the CIS onto the engine (obviously before putting the engine in the car). I don't see where it would be a problem but I just wanted to see if that was okay to do or if it would be difficult trying to work around the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Craig
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Old 08-04-2008, 07:44 AM
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I bet that plug does not go on that year. I know my 78 motor had that plug and it went to a doo hicky on the drivers side of the engine on top of the intake pipes. I believe I had to rig up a way to support it when I took the heater blower stuff out because the mount for it was on the side of the heater blower assembly. I want to say thermotime switch was correct but if you already have that plugged up... I dont know.
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elombard View Post
I bet that plug does not go on that year. I know my 78 motor had that plug and it went to a doo hicky on the drivers side of the engine on top of the intake pipes. I believe I had to rig up a way to support it when I took the heater blower stuff out because the mount for it was on the side of the heater blower assembly. I want to say thermotime switch was correct but if you already have that plugged up... I dont know.
The thermo-time switch is on the left chain cover. Two wires connect to it separately. Similar to how the wires split on the right chain cover to the oil pressure sensor and the temp sensor.

The mystery wire was fully wrapped in electrical tape so it wasn't as if it broke free on accident.

Another interesting tid bit is that the 82 has a 35 degree celsius switch which is screwed into the breather cover (only on 81-83). Had to pull cover from the 82 engine and put it on the rebuilt 80 engine since I am using the CIS and harness from the 82.

I seem to be missing the "additional 15 degree throttle position switch" which is also on the 81-83 models.

Both of these are covered on page 240-28 of the Bentley.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:19 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #155 (permalink)
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The mystery connection in your photo connects to the cruise control vacuum servo located far forward on the driver's side of your engine compartment. It is visible from your photos of your empty engine compartment.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:26 AM
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I knew it had a vacuum line involved! :-)
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RSR look hot rod, based on 75' SOLD
73 911t 3.0SC Hot rod Gulf Blue - Sold.
Old 08-04-2008, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karleick View Post
The mystery connection in your photo connects to the cruise control vacuum servo located far forward on the driver's side of your engine compartment. It is visible from your photos of your empty engine compartment.
Fritz ... THANK YOU.

That may explain why my cruise control never worked.

Wonder why someone would pull it and wrap it with electrical tape. Maybe someone forgot to reconnect it after working on the harness?

I think that I will keep it unplugged but I will make the wire accessible for future tests. If the PO disconnected it for a good reason, I don't want to find out about it when I try to crank her up for the first time.

Again, thanks a ton.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:47 AM
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I thought that I would mention a strange dream last night.

While my brain was processing wiring data all night and making connections (ugh, rough night) it managed to formulate a dream worth remembering.

The car was on stands and I cranked it up for the first time. She purred beautifully. I remember being completely blown away by the new found horse power ... yet the car never left the garage.

Somehow I was feeling the engine kick me back in my seat without the tires on the ground. It sure was nice though.

Hopefully this is foreshadowing if good things to come .
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:52 AM
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There are lots of reasons why your cruise control wouldn't work. If that plug wasn't connected, it definitely wouldn't. I'm a bit anal about getting every system on my 83 SC to work correctly, and I've spent lots of time on my cruise control. If you decide you want to get your system operating, let me know and I'll share what I've done with mine. There are a number of threads about these early cruise control systems available and that's where I did my research. My system works very well and I enjoy using it when driving on boring interstate when I want to avoid inadvertently staying at that 90+ MPH sweet spot.

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Old 08-04-2008, 11:59 AM
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