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Question about B&B heater tubes and engine tin

I'm trying to put B&B headers with heat on my 3.2, and there is a flap of engine tin in the way of the left heater outlet.
Here's a picture showing the flap and the approximate place where the tube needs to be. Do I need to cut a hole here, or am I doing something wrong?
B&B's instructions made no mention of this, and I couldn't find it discussed here.



Thanks,

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Old 05-14-2008, 09:30 AM
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If your original heater tube did not hit the tin and the B&B does then I would say the B&B is not right. How are you going to attach the flexible tube? Will it require a longer flexible tube if you move the B&B pipe toward the engine?
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Last edited by equality72521; 05-14-2008 at 09:49 AM..
Old 05-14-2008, 09:40 AM
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Hmm... good point. I take it then that the connections should be in the same locations?
I'll have to compare the B&B to the stock HE and see what's different. (Not sure why I didn't do that last night... )
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:15 AM
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Graham,

My B&B headers & a friend's both did the same thing on our 3.2 Carrera engines. You can either notch the shield or drill out the spot welds and take it off. When I took the shield off, I covered the sensor wires in Parker silicone fabric heat shielding wrap. It's the orange stuff at the top right of the page

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=791

What you'll also find is that the stock heater hoses are too long since the B&B heater box pipes are longer than the stock heat exchanger tubes. So you'll have to cut the hose a bit.
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:39 AM
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I bent that tin upward when installing my headers. As I recall, helping a friend install the B&B headers, had to do the same thing.
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:45 AM
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Same here, I notched the tin and bent it upwards.. no biggie.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trog View Post
Same here, I notched the tin and bent it upwards.. no biggie.
+1

BTW KTL, what are you a sales rep for McMaster??
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:17 AM
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Just telling people where to get good stuff. Why shop anywhere else? It's the Super WalMart of industrial supply!

Anytime I need something, I always search for it there first. I could buy a freakin' toilet there if I had to. You shop there too. Don't try to hide your addiction. I can see it.

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Old 05-14-2008, 12:27 PM
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Awesome... Kevin to the rescue again!
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Old 05-14-2008, 01:14 PM
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Ok, I got the headers on (I notched the tin and bent a section upwards), and that's all good. But now I have another question if anyone's listening still.
When I put the engine back in the car, the rubber oil line that runs from the engine oil cooler to the oil tank sits on top of the right header. Does anyone have any tips for fixing that?

Sorry for not having pictures... I know that would make this all a lot easier.
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Old 05-17-2008, 06:38 PM
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You need a steel line like this to clear the headers.

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Old 05-17-2008, 06:58 PM
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Have fun trying to get just that line from the fine folks (cough cough) at B&B........

Cheers
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Old 05-17-2008, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgarr View Post
You need a steel line like this to clear the headers.

GAAAAKKK!
Now that I have the backdate oil lines I thought I had all the pieces needed to put my B&Bs in.

Smogged the car yesterday and today I was thinking of putting them in before it gets hot and then someone had to post a picture like this...

Hell with it, I'm going out for breakfast.
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Old 05-18-2008, 06:10 AM
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Just out of curiosity, shouldn't that line have some more flex built in? Unless you have solid engine mounts, it seems like you'll be stressing your oil cooler and tank every time your engine moves.
I guess I'm off to get some hoses made tomorrow morning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgarr View Post
You need a steel line like this to clear the headers.

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Old 05-18-2008, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
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Have fun trying to get just that line from the fine folks (cough cough) at B&B........

Cheers
I just called them. They'll sell it to me for a mere $195.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:16 AM
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If I was to do it again I would not use their oil tube, as you can see its still close to the headers and even with the rubber connectors it does flex but not as much as I would like it too. If you could get or make a metal 90 degree pointing forward out of the tank you could cut down the rubber S hose and make it work.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:33 AM
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I haven't been able to find an elbow with a tight enough radius to clear the header. I'm almost desperate enough to use some copper plumbing elbows and clamp them together with some hose.
Also Craig, did you use the backdated oil line from the engine to the thermostat? Mine seems the be about 2.5" longer than it should be.
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Old 05-19-2008, 10:53 AM
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I did use the backdated line, cant you just put a little more loop in it?
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:01 AM
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I can, but the rubber section is nearly kinked. I've been looking for some barb fittings so I can shorten it up, but nothing I've found locally is big enough.
Time for McMaster Carr, I suppose.
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Old 05-19-2008, 12:27 PM
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Here is my line. does it look something like this? Also note I have to dent in the right side heater tube to clear that same line from the engine.



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Old 05-19-2008, 06:11 PM
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