Need more front Camber

[wfbal]

I have a 911SC mainly used for DE.

My front setup includes Elephant Racing front monoballs in stock camber plates, decambered ball joints, strut bar using stock camber plate bolts.

The most negative camber I can achieve on the right side is -1.6deg.
Surprisingly, I'm in the middle of the camber plate adjustment to achieve the same camber value on the left side!
The car doesn't seem to have been accidented/repaired.

Would any body know what could be the cause of the right/left difference regarding the camber adjustment range?

Now I need more negative camber up front.

How much more negative camber I can get with the stock camber plates by making the adjustment slot bigger?

Is there affordable camber plates which will allow me to get at least one more degree of negative camber while keeping my Elephant Racing front monoballs and strut bars?

I know that the Elephant Racing QuickChange Camber Plates or Wevo Camberking should do the trick for 600$ but I'm trying to find a cheaper solution by keeping my Elephant Racing front monoballs and strut bars.

Any help would be appreciated.

[TargaFlorio]

Do you have a strut brace installed?
Some people report that they've been able to achieve more negative camber by installing an adjustable strut brace, by pulling the top of the struts together you create more negative camber. Since you're doing the adjustment at the top, very small changes can achieve the desired results.

Cheers,
http://nicolashunziker.com

[wfbal]

Yes I do have strut bar which use mounts on the stock camber plate bolts.

[Peter Zimmermann]

You might have a bent strut/spindle - this can happen with curb contact, etc., and the PO might not have known anything about the damage. Just a guess...

[wfbal]

Thanks Pete, I will check that.

[gtc]

Rebel Racing will raise and decamber your spindles for $450. This seems more effective and simpler to me than using wacky ball joints and bump steer kits, albeit more permanent.

[911pcars]

"How much more negative camber I can get with the stock camber plates by making the adjustment slot bigger?"

It's not just the "adjustment slots" but the opening in each strut tower. After removing the strut and camber plate, you can grind and enlarge the strut opening toward the chassis side to allow the camber plate to create more negative camber. There's a limit to how much you can remove without the camber plate hitting the inner fender well, but it might be enough to provide equal camber/caster on sides.

Hope this helps.

Sherwood

[wfbal]

Thanks Sherwood, it does help. I'm trying to avoid visable permanent modifications. I will probably get this car back to stock configuration when I will sell it.
Graham, for that same reason I don't think the spindles mod will be good for me. But thanks for introducing me to Rebel Racing.

[JonT]

Just curious what makes you think you need more neg front camber? I've got essentially the same setup as you and seem to get pretty even tire wear on track.

[stlrj]

If you're maxed out on your camber plates, you can still get more camber by lowering.

[wfbal]

JonT, maybe my car rolls more than yours, the outside edge of my RA1 are wearing out. (Tarett Sway bars on order)

stlrj, you are right but I won't be able to get out of my driveway if a get my car any lower (done that already)

[Flieger]

Originally Posted by stlrj

If you're maxed out on your camber plates, you can still get more camber by lowering.

Wow, you just brought up a very well covered topic from the racing forum.

Lowering the front until the point of maximum effective control arm length will increase static negative camber. The point of maximum effective A-arm length is a little past level, when the A-arm is perpendicular to the axis of the strut.

Any movement up or down from this positon will cause positive camber gain.

Lowering the car also lowers the roll center, which quickly increases the rolling moment on the suspension due to lateral loading in a turn. The bump steer and steering arm geometry is also screwd up, hense the RSR raised spindle and de-cambered ball joint, cambered stub axle-solutions.

Stiffer sway bars will stop the roll at the cost of ride over uneven road surfaces.

Think before you lower. It may be more work than you want.

(all this is written with friendly intentions )

[wfbal]

Flieger, thanks for the info.
Like I said, I won't lower my car more than it is now (about 1" lower than European ride hight).

But I still need more camber, the adjustment slots are limiting the strut movement, I have still a little (about 1/8") of room in the strut opening.
I will grind these adjustment slots (permanent mod but won't show) and see how much more camber I can achieve.

Thanks guys.