Case saver and stud question

[jjrowe]

Looks good! Your only potential pitfall now is if any of the inserts went in cocked and the studs are crooked. I see what you mean about having to drill out the top of the cylinder seats, that does look hairy.

Jesse
76 911S

[my1st911]

Originally Posted by jjrowe

Looks good! Your only potential pitfall now is if any of the inserts went in cocked and the studs are crooked. I see what you mean about having to drill out the top of the cylinder seats, that does look hairy.

Jesse
76 911S

I do understand your "pitfall idea". But do to the fact it was done on a drill press it should be very close. I am sure while trying to drill them, there could be pressure from the drill bit itself that would change my perfectly straight drilling angles, but for the most part I bet its just as good as if the machine shop did it at a huge savings. If the studs need a tweaking here and there, it wont affect the final outcome of having the studs stay in the case

[69911e]

Nice job. I would just screw a few studs in by hand as a trial fit and place the jugs on. You will then know if it is straight enough.
While you are in there, I would suggest the oil by pass mod. I did this myself and only cost a few bucks for the updated piston and a pipe fitting from the hardware store. Only takes about an hour or so. EBS provided me the details.
I would however be prepared to accept some oil leaks due the various mating surfaces being slightly warped or non-planar without all the a fore mentioned machining.
If you elect not to line bore the case (I didn't do it either), you may need to try various torque patterns to find one which leads to a non- binding crank. I have done this on 3 mag cases with no main bearings problems after 100K -125K miles. If it does bind, you will then need to reconsider the line boring.

If you are looking for more free stuff to do, try boat-tailing the mains.

Ed

[my1st911]

Originally Posted by 69911e

Nice job. I would just screw a few studs in by hand as a trial fit and place the jugs on. You will then know if it is straight enough.
While you are in there, I would suggest the oil by pass mod. I did this myself and only cost a few bucks for the updated piston and a pipe fitting from the hardware store. Only takes about an hour or so. EBS provided me the details.
I would however be prepared to accept some oil leaks due the various mating surfaces being slightly warped or non-planar without all the a fore mentioned machining.
If you elect not to line bore the case (I didn't do it either), you may need to try various torque patterns to find one which leads to a non- binding crank. I have done this on 3 mag cases with no main bearings problems after 100K -125K miles. If it does bind, you will then need to reconsider the line boring.

If you are looking for more free stuff to do, try boat-tailing the mains.

Ed

I don't have the jugs with me, but did insert the 12 best (straight) studs to take a visual. They look fine, and I should have no problem sliding the jugs on.

I'm not sure if the oil mod is that crucial. I understand the point of it, but I think it would be more for a high revving car used for the track. With big speeds and high revving, I could see that to much excess oil being in the bottom of the sump.

I will check the crank probably next week to see if it is binding. I guess depending on the cost will be the determining factor.

Boat-tailing the mains is a new one. I will have to use the search function

[my1st911]

OK, I'm back with an update. Since I am all done drilling in the case savers, I put the old bearings and crank into the case, and torqued down the two halves. The crank spun nice and easy, so line boring, boat tailing, and shuffle pinning wont happen this go around. I noticed in Wayne's book that he recommends the locktite to mate the case halves, and to also apply it to the entire half, including the area I assume is called the "mains". I have a friend of a friend, if you will, that worked for Porsche for 20 years. He recommended the aviation anaerobic sealer, ad to only apply it to the outter perimeter of the case, and thats it. I asked why, and he he said it isn't needed, and would change the bearing clearance because of the sealer. What do you guys think. While the sealer would only spread the bearings minutely, what is the benefit of doing the entire case? And what do you think about the aviation sealer? Thanks everyone

[Gunter]

After all that work you're using old bearings?
Wouldn't it be better to check for binding of the crank with new bearings?
Same for the I-shaft? Old bearings?
The bearings on the I-shaft take more of a load than the crank bearings and wear much sooner from what I've see in 3 engines.

Since the mains and perimeter have been machined on the sam plane, I'd use sealer all around including the mains.
Some people even shuffle-pin to prevent wandering.

[john walker's workshop]

is it just the angle of the picture, or are the two lower right studs not on the same plane?

[my1st911]

Originally Posted by Gunter

After all that work you're using old bearings?
Wouldn't it be better to check for binding of the crank with new bearings?
Same for the I-shaft? Old bearings?
The bearings on the I-shaft take more of a load than the crank bearings and wear much sooner from what I've see in 3 engines.

Since the mains and perimeter have been machined on the sam plane, I'd use sealer all around including the mains.
Some people even shuffle-pin to prevent wandering.

Yes I am using the old main and rod bearings. I had 40 psi of oil pressure at hot idle before tear down, and if I bumped the gas quickly it jumped to about 80. The motor is tight, so why replace a good bearing with a good bearing. Makes no sense. I did however replace the i-shaft bearings. They seemed worn a little. I tore the engine down for oil leaks, and for what I thought were pulled studs. The studs were however great, but do to my wanting learn more, split the case and installed my own case savers. I agree the sealer seems to make sense on all the mating surfaces, but wouldn't that change the bearing clearance at that point. If sealing the case is all you are doing, then just the outer edge would suffice. Does sealing the mains also "glue the mains and keep them from wandering a little? Does it seal the oil pressure in the mains? Just inquiring about the why to do all the surfaces even thought I will probably do just that. And any idea on the aviation anaerobic sealer?

[my1st911]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

is it just the angle of the picture, or are the two lower right studs not on the same plane?

Geez John, are you dying to find fault in my case saver install lol? I'm just joking with you. I only threaded the studs in a couple turns to take the pic. I test fitted all the jugs and they are pretty good. I do however have two studs that I am not completely happy with, as the studs broke in the case while I was trying to remove them. I thought I could just drill them out with the drill press, but really I should have tried to get them out before drilling. Hind sight 20/20 as they say. Those two studs weren't the best, but a hell of a learning experience. The two in question aren't even in that pic, as they are on the other half. I test fitted the jugs and they all slide right on. The 2 holes in question go on, but not as smooth, and will need a little tweaking. My next 2.7 or whatever will be flawless, as I learned quite a bit. The case I am using is still quite good for a dummy

[my1st911]

Saturday bump, trying to feel the love, and answers before I put the case halves together today

[jjrowe]

If you are still asking about sealant options, read this thread. I don't think anyone ever mentions leaving the mains dry.

The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

- Jesse
76 911S

[my1st911]

Hi guys, it has been forever since my last post. I didn't want you to think I didn't appreciate everyones help, but life has been crazy, and I'm cutting lawns on the side. Last time I posted, I was trying to decide on sealer. Anyway, alot has changed since then. Here are the latest pics. The studs were perfect, and I'm slowly putting her back together.

[my1st911]

OK, well its been a few months since I did post, but this past weekend I reinstalled the engine. She started right up, ran awesome and I'm very pleased.

All told with 12 new studs, all the case savers, guidance from Craig (cgarr) and all seals and gaskets including new rings, i spent about $600, so it was within my budget, and she is leak free and has compression on all cylinders. Time to just dial in the cis since the engine is running rich. I ran the car for about 3 minutes on Sunday in the garage with the door open, and my carbon monoxide detector went off upstairs in the house.

Thanks for all the help I received. Time to wait for spring to rack up some miles. Paint and light body work are next on my agenda