Bump steer kit questions

[Phrog]

I'm getting ready to install a Rebel Racing Products bump steer kit. My car, a 71 911E, is currently equipped with a Weltmeister washer style bump steer kit. The question is: 1. Do I remove the Weltmeister kit and just use the Rebel Kit or 2. Leave the Weltmeister kit and use it in conjunction with the Rebel kit? What are the pros & cons of both options? What is the experience of others who have done this upgrade.
Thanks

[webrest]

Hi Kevin,
I'm about to make my own bump steer kit and have thought the exact same thing as I have the spacers installed also. As it is riding fairly low I would think that it is better to leave the spacers where they are and work the tie rod kit. I suppose if your isn't that low though you may get away with removing the rack spacers. I share your concern the spacers are a crappy way of going about things. Seems to require too much force to fit them in for my liking. On the other hand if the car is low you have to have too much length in the tie rod connection bolt for comfort.
Let me know what you decided to do. R. Dave

[911st]

If we could, adjusting the rack height would be better than a connection that cantilevers the steering arm. However, that is not possible beyond what the spacer kit can accomplish.

I am no where near an expert on this but it seems the spacers work pretty well w stock spindles even when lowered. The spacers should not have to be forced in. The u joint in the steering column needs to be loosened for a proper install.

I might spend my effort on stiffer suspension which limits suspension deflection and thus bump steer.

If one has a raised spindle then the tie-rod end pacer kits become a must.

I believe setting the shims requires some knowledge, a special jig, and or measuring device to set up the bump steer correctly. I do not know.

Might try starting with trying to get the a arm and steering rods so they get close to parallel when the wheel is turned like going around a typical corner. You can not get the two parallel in all situations as the rods change angle through out there range of motion.

[KTL]

The bump steer kit needs to be set up right. Circle track racers use a rig like this from Speedway Motors

Deco Bump Steer Setup Rig- Speedway Motors

Leaving the spacers under the rack simply changes how much you need to adjust the bump steer links. The spacers can stay or go, doesn't really matter either way. One thing to consider though, the spacers on my car ('87 Carrera) raise the rack enough that the fuel lines are rubbing on the body. I have never liked that- could cause abrasion and eventual fuel leak

[webrest]

First let me say I did loosen the steering "u" joint during fitment but you still have to use some effort to raise the rack. I like things to go smoothly. I also agree with ? there are other lines in there that can use the space.
I also agree with KTL that it only changes how much spacing you need on the tie rods. My argument is, that the less spacers you have on the steering arm end the stronger and the less likelihood there is of fatigue.
As for the bump steer gage that KTL mentioned I built one very similar to the one in the hyperlink that "I used in the setting up of clubmans and open wheelers for customers but they all have easily removable coil overs that allow easy suspension up and down movement to check bump. Call me lazy but I can't be bothered removing the front torsion bars to enable easy assessment.
My arms are on a fair angle at the moment with the rack spacers in place but frankly I don't have very much bump steer. It can only improve if the arms are leveled out even further. OK it isn't going to be optimum for high level racing but I'm sure that it will be good enough for a road car. Believe me, running in open wheel & sports car racing for many years of my life I know how terrifying a bump steering car can be. Any way these types of discussions are always good fun

[efhughes3]

I just had my spindles raised and the arms modded to eliminate bump steer. As part of this, my rack spacers are now out, and it seems to be a great improvement. If you alter the geometry of the front end, the spacers should not be needed, in fact they may create the opposite issue.