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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Lafayette, CA
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thanks.

Old 08-13-2011, 06:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #141 (permalink)
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Hi A beautiful build congrats! I installed the same AFR gages in my car and found out they are impossible to see out in daylight. In the garage they look bright but in sunlight they turn invisible with the curved lens and backlit face. You may want to reconsider. I have subscribed.
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Wally in Montreal, Canada
My age 50 something,P- Car's age 30 something 2.7 911S PMO 40's , E cams, RS pistons/cylinders, MSD6AL, Pertronix, SSI's, M+K 2 in 2 out. Perfect studs (whew!)
Old 08-15-2011, 04:06 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #142 (permalink)
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Really like your engine build and twin turbo setup. Can't wait to hear how it performs.
Old 08-15-2011, 05:14 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #143 (permalink)
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im constantly amazed at the ingenuity of some of the people on this board. nice work Richard!!
Old 08-15-2011, 06:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #144 (permalink)
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Can't get enough pictures of your build. Engine looks just awsome :-)

Keep the pics coming
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Trond R.
1979 930: Garret GT35r turbo, EFI, carerra intake, Link EMS, custom GT2 cams, 98mm JE P/C, 964 crank (stroker), custom valves & ported (XtremeCylinderHeads) etc..etc..
1972 914-6 GT replica project
1986 944 Turbo
Old 08-15-2011, 01:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #145 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by totle View Post
Can't get enough pictures of your build. Engine looks just awsome :-)

Keep the pics coming
+1 on the Porsche porn!
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(1) '77 Chassis and '79 SC 3.0 project car
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #146 (permalink)
 
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I thought it was about time for another update.

I managed to get the engine into the car and fire it up. The engine fired up without too much trouble however it has been one step forward two steps back wards since then.


First the cam driven scavenge pump couldn't keep up with with the oil flow from both turbos and oil blew past the seals into both the exhaust and inlet sides of the turbos. So off with the cam driven pump and on with an electric pump that I had laying around the garage. Finding a place to mount it was a bit difficult however with the help of a few exhaust clamps, I mounted it onto the torsion tube.


Hose routing was a bit of a problem, but worked out OK.




I fired it up again and started doing some more tuning but realized that the idle was not easily adjustable due to the manifold layout. So I decided to add an idle control valve.



While doing the initial tuning, the starter motor engagement with the ring gear sounded a bit off. I pulled the starter and found a fair amount of metal being stripped off the ring gear. So out with the motor again to check the starter engagement.



While replacing the ring gear I noticed some hair line cracks in the flywheel that come with the G50.




So off to Patrick MS for a new flywheel



Another"while your in there" moment resulted in relocating the crank trigger from the pulley sensor to the flywheel to get a better signal and a new clutch / stage 2 pressure plate from Kennedy Engineering.



The 964 flywheel sensor braket and sensor were purchased from our host. Surprisingly the OEM sensor bracket was less expensive than the aftermarket unit.

Richard.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:52 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #147 (permalink)
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Richard....I'm amazed......you did an awsome work....so nicely made....absolute congratulations...I'll follow your project carrefully....thanks for the pictures.....
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:44 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #148 (permalink)
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A question.....why do you use a 930/60 flywheel.....?
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #149 (permalink)
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Merci Serge - thanks for the compliments. This has been a winter project that has taken 3+ years. The scope has continued to grow - the more I do, the more that I find out from this forum that I can do.

I used the 930 flywheel because I have a G50-50 that has the bell housing shortened to fit into the 911 chassis. I originally decided to go with a G50, so I fitted the G50 torsion tube to the chassis. However I then found a G50-50 with a shortened bell housing - therefore the G50 torsion tube wasn't really needed. The advantage of this setup is the engine is moved forward in the chassis ~25mm.






The new flywheel is a little lighter than the original and KEP pressure plate is also lighter.



For the crank trigger - I originally used an aftermarket crank trigger kit that uses a toothed wheel on the crank shaft fan belt pulley and a small billet bracket bolted to the distributor stud. I tried this because it was an easy conversion. With a 60-2 wheel I had problems with the signal resolution so I had to go to a 24-1 wheel. When I pulled the engine for the flywheel / clutch upgrade I check the price of the original Porsche crank trigger bracket from Pelican Part and it was >$30. The original Porsche sensor was also relatively cheap compared to the aftermarket unit. Therefore I pulled the aftermarket kit off and went back to the original Porsche parts as the teeth on the flywheel are much larger. I will be data logging the signal this weekend so hopefully it will be OK.


Richard.
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930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.
Old 12-02-2011, 07:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #150 (permalink)
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You should post the new pictures you took yesterday.
Old 03-18-2012, 06:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #151 (permalink)
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Insiders leaking information - but seeing as you asked.

Since my last update in December I have continued to take one step forward two steps backward.

The new crank sensor on the flywheel was a good idea however the OEM sensor was giving a few too many missed counts once I got it running. So I decided to keep the sensor mount and make an adapter to fit a higher quality sensor (Cleweitt).

The OEM crank sensor bracket has an 18mm bore. So I tapped it M20 x 1.5P





I machined a plug to screw into the OEM bracket.



I bored and splitthe plug to clamp the Clewet sensor. Shown without the adapter plug screwed fully into the OEM bracket.




The new sensor works great. According to the Haltech - I had only 3 missed counts in ~30,000 trigger events (0.01%).

The other problem that I have been wrestling with is the starter motor. I posted in December that I experienced trouble with the engagement of the starter pinion and the ring gear. I contacted IMI (High Torque Starters) and they were terrific to deal with. Suspecting that it was an engagement problem they sent me a slightly larger pinion (10 teeth instead of 9).

Showing the lack of tooth depth engagement with the standard 9 tooth pinion.



And with the new 10 tooth pinion.



This still caused some problems however. First I couldn't work out why my G50/50 needed a 10 tooth pinion. Secondly the new pinion would not engage the ring gear approximately 50% of the time - causing another problem:



After a conversation with CMS (another great company to deal with) they pointed me in the right direction. It seems my G50/50 isn't a G50/50 like I was led to believe when I purchased it from this forum - it is a G50/52 fitted with a G50 tail section. Apparently G50/52's used a different starter motor that has a 10 tooth pinion. And because I it had been shortened, I couln't use the standard G50/52 starter motor.

CMS were also able to shed some light on why I was experiencing the pinion / ring gear engagement problem - the new 10 tooth pinion supplied by IMI only has a chamfer on one side, however it is on the wrong side.

The original 9 tooth pinion on the left - the new 10 tooth pinion on the right - notice the chamfer....

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996 Turbo - X50.

Last edited by motley911; 03-18-2012 at 02:31 PM..
Old 03-18-2012, 07:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #152 (permalink)
 
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CONTINUED

CMS advised to cut a chamfer on the opposite side of the tooth which would allow it to engage properly. Being a little bit of a perfectionist I improvised a grinding head on my vintage 1945 milling machine.











And the finished result.



In order to get full tooth engagement I also needed to space the ring gear towards the starter motor a few millimeters. In order to achieve this I needed to countersink the bolts holding the ring gear / pressure plate.








This finally resulted in a starter motor that works flawlessly - every time
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930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.

Last edited by motley911; 03-18-2012 at 02:33 PM..
Old 03-18-2012, 07:49 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #153 (permalink)
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I can't believe you had to do all this. What a serious PITA.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #154 (permalink)
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one word AMAZING!
Old 03-19-2012, 12:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #155 (permalink)
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Extremely useful thread, I will recheck my 6 speed G50 starter/pinion based on your experience. While mine turned over on the bench once I got everything cut down, I never did check the mesh all that well.

D.
Old 03-19-2012, 04:25 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #156 (permalink)
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While the engine was out I decided to upgrade the valve covers. This caused another issue as the new billet covers don't have the same tube mount as the 964 covers for the spark plug / COP mounts (see earlier post).

So I drilled and tapped the covers and made some new COP mounts fitted with large grommets to retain the COP's. I also added a heat shield to keep the heat from the headers off off the lower COP's.











The grommets retain the COP's very well.
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930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.
Old 03-19-2012, 07:57 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #157 (permalink)
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With the gearbox / starter problems behind me I was able to get the car out again and continue tuning the engine. I was also able to enjoy some of the early spring we have been having here in Iowa and wash the car - first bath in 3 years....











.





I still have a lot of tuning to do - but it is running
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930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.
Old 03-19-2012, 08:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #158 (permalink)
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what kind of power are you hoping for?
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(1) '79 911SC 3.0 Widebody SC
(1) '15 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5TT
Toluca Lake, CA
Old 03-19-2012, 08:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #159 (permalink)
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Following the big wash I thought it would be a good idea to fit the NBD graphics that I have had laying around for a few months. I worked with Joe Bob and created a new design to replace the carrera decals along the doors.






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RSR Replica - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/472762-rsr-update.html
930 Cab - ex-IA car, 3.4L, 1.2 bar, G50
996 Turbo - X50.
Old 03-19-2012, 08:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #160 (permalink)
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