How to convert a SWB 912 to a 911?

[blau911]

I am thinking of buying a 912 and doing a conversion.
Can anyone plse advise what exactly is necessary to swap out a 912 motor with a 2.4S motor with Weber carb's?
The 912 already has the front set up from a 71T. Rear is still stock 912 except SC torsion bars.
From what I have gathered, I need t cut out the 912 motor mounts and install 911 mounts. Also I will need a 911 oil tank. Is there a particular year tank I will need for a 2.4T motor? Also, the car has a stock 901 5 speed gearbox. To match it with a 2.4 motor do I need a 2.4 cluthc and flywheel or a an earlier clutch flywheel from a SWB 2.0 911 motor? How about wiring?
Any knowledgable responses would be appreciated.
Thanks

[JerryL]

Do you have your eye on the 912?? have the 2.4L S motor or thinking about it??
You are correct on the tank, all wiring for said "stuff" is in the back of the 912 along with the mounting points for the tank (at least on my 66 and I assume on my 67)
I have just finished replacing the entire crossmember that has the motor mounts and deck lid latch cutout in a 71 911 not a big job amd depending how orig you want it to look you may be able to cut & splice mounts without taking out the entire cross member.

On clutch you are overlooking the early LWB cars 69-71 used the 901 / 911 transaxel as well, clutch splines are the same others may know about flywheel clearance in bellhousing.

But back to orig question, If you have the 912 or are looking at one you know what is up with motor mounts, if not drop me a note and I can give you pics of both. Same with the motor, Yes the 2.4LS is the dream motor for early cars (also look at the $$$) but if yu dont have the motor stashed away you may look at the 2.0 & 2.2L motors as you can get plenty of HP from either of those and have more to chose from.

Let me know if you want pics.

Regards

66 912 Coupe
67 912 Targa (euro)
71 911 Targa

3/4 of a 68 912 Coupe going away!

[nilknarf]

Hey Blau, I'm doing basically the same thing with a '66 (putting in a '76 2.7)... I can't say I'm any expert on the subject, because I haven't made much progress yet. One bit of advice I've gotten that seems good to pass along is that when you get ready to install your 911 motor mounts, it's best to bolt a case and transaxle together (all mounting hardware included) and use that to accurately position your weld-in mounts in the corners of the engine bay. The PO of my car didn't do that, and now I'll have to cut my mounts out again for a better go of it. (he used 1/8" angle iron to cobb up a real mess (I can send you pix of what NOT to do!)- I rescued some real mounts from a wrecked 68 targa that I'm getting ready to install.

Hey Jerry- I'd love to see pix of your work!

Curt

[Peter Zimmermann]

These might help, although this conversion was a '69 (LWB) model 912 to 911. I used an oil tank (I think it was a '74) that allowed use of a clamped rubber "S" hose between the tank and engine cooler (you want to match the cooler on the engine to the oil tank so you can use an early S hose with fittings, or a later version with clamps). The electrical was a modified early 911 panel wired as necessary for the application. The oil lines were factory from the thermostat forward to a multi-row RoW SC cooler (we cut out the right side battery box and closed the hole with a steel plate). We used a fuel pump from a 2.2 liter "T" (for carb application) and mounted the pump behind the gas tank using an original '69 mounting bracket. The oil tank/filter opening was done with a template made on a different car. The dashboard was a 5-gauge panel, which greatly simplified the instrument problem.

Engine mount (raw):



Engine mount (finished):



Oil lines (rear view):



Oil lines (side view):



Electrical:



Oil filter/breathers:



Engine (installed):



Fuel pump:



Dash:



One matter of real concern is the rear torsion bar tube. I didn't want to chance having mine break, from an unknown amount of internal rust, so we replaced the tube with a new, factory, galvanized unit. We removed the rear seat bottoms, created holes in the steel panels to allow access so the new tube could be welded all the way around at each end, then re-closed the holes. The tube and engine mounts were replaced/installed with the chassis on a frame bench, so location of the different parts was not in doubt. I used a "push-type" clutch with a 2.0L flywheel (lightened) along with the 5-speed transmission original to the 912. The conversion, done right, is extremely expensive, but very rewarding.

[JerryL]

Very nice work and results!!

Regards

[blau911]

The conversion, done right, is extremely expensive, but very rewarding.

Thanks for theinfo guys. Just one question, what is considered expensive? I have a complete 2.4 carb'd motor with engine tin as well as the 911 motor mounts. The car also has a 911 front set-up. So where is the real cost involved besides welding in the motor mounts and getting the correct flywheel?

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by blau911

Thanks for theinfo guys. Just one question, what is considered expensive? I have a complete 2.4 carb'd motor with engine tin as well as the 911 motor mounts. The car also has a 911 front set-up. So where is the real cost involved besides welding in the motor mounts and getting the correct flywheel?

I think that you better price oil lines (a 2.4S will require a front cooler), a torsion bar tube, an oil tank, a clutch, mechanical condition of the car (brake calipers/rotors/shocks/wheel bearings/suspension bushings/electrical/gauges/pedal assembly/clutch cable/fuel delivery/etc.), and how much of that you're going to pay to have done. And then there's the transmission that comes with the car, surely you wouldn't do all that work and not open the trans, would you?

[doublestuff]

If you haven't seen Speedo's SWB 912 to 911 project, check it out. It should be mandatory reading if you are thinking of doing it.

SWB 911R...the beginning

Jason

[TRE Cup]

i recommend the larger oil tanks from 74-89. Newer the better so there is no corrosion. These have more oil capacity and if your intent is some spirited driving, it wouldn't hurt to have the extra capacity. As far as external oil cooler, maybe not. Depends where you live and if this is just a street car. Carbed or mfi motors tend to run rich and the fuel laden mixture means cooler oil temps. You can always add the external cooler later

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Garth, I have an excellent torsion bar tube I cut and saved from a 73 last year, if you want to go that route. it's as clean as an 89.

[blau911]

Originally Posted by TRE Cup

i recommend the larger oil tanks from 74-89. Newer the better so there is no corrosion. These have more oil capacity and if your intent is some spirited driving, it wouldn't hurt to have the extra capacity. As far as external oil cooler, maybe not. Depends where you live and if this is just a street car. Carbed or mfi motors tend to run rich and the fuel laden mixture means cooler oil temps. You can always add the external cooler later

Good points. I already have a front oil cooler setup from a LWB 73 car which I assume will also work on a 1967 SWB car. The rest of the car is supposedly in good driving condition.
It already has 5 gauges, and the tranny is a 5 speed in good condition.

[rolls 912]

Hi

I have almost finished my 912 conversion running a 3.2. Fairly easy actually. Little stumped with the 915 axles and fitting the muffler but apart from that, very straight forward.

[Grady Clay]

Originally Posted by blau911

Good points. I already have a front oil cooler setup from a LWB 73 car which I assume will also work on a 1967 SWB car. The rest of the car is supposedly in good driving condition.
It already has 5 gauges, and the tranny is a 5 speed in good condition.

Oooo …
Be careful here.

The ’73 only front oil cooler system does not have a pressure relief valve. That device at the oil tank fitting is a thermostat only. The system was designed to only use a ‘trombone’ front cooler and not anything else more fragile.

Without a thermostat/pressure relief valve as used ’74-’89, the cooler will probably fail from overpressure.

Check your ’67 transmission and see if it has the ‘simplified’ differential. If you can see the hex head in the center of the transmission axle flange – it has the ‘simplified’ version and may need update. *Without the update, the transmission can destroy itself.)

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Oil lines (rear view):


Oil lines (side view):

Peter,

Good installation.
With a new torsion bar tube were you able to weld in the connection (’74->) between the tube and the end of the tunnel?

For anyone wanting maximum inboard tire/wheel clearance on the right-rear, use some unique Elephant Racing pipe/hose assemblies between the thermostat and engine. These hoses go up and over the tire inside the fender.

The chassis on ’74-’89 has an indentation for the pipes where they pass the axle area. That indentation is not present on any ‘long-hood’ other than ’73.

Originally Posted by rolls 912

Hi. I have almost finished my 912 conversion running a 3.2. Fairly easy actually. Little stumped with the 915 axles and fitting the muffler but apart from that, very straight forward.

Please look up some of my posts on this subject (past month or two, I think). Axles ARE a big issue with a SWB.

Best,
Grady