Remove my CIS while in car

[theiceman]

i dropped my engine about 2 inches or so ,, didnt even undo the shifter rod , although i wouldnt recomend it as its easy enough to set back up .

Took the whole thing out in one piece.

[john walker's workshop]

that's cuz it's a 78. up to 79, not too much pretzyl man stuff. 80-83, i'd rather take it out. too much crap you can't get at worth a damn.

[theiceman]

yeah the plastic fuel lines really helped

[Peter Zimmermann]

After doing, and over-seeing, many air box removal/replacement jobs, I wrote a chart which can be found on page 135 of the 8th Edition of my book. A column in that chart is "Engine removal required?" For 1973.5-'75 the answer is no. For 1976-'83 models the answer is yes (partial drop OK but that's actually harder on your back than having access to all sides of the engine).

[Vereeken]

Thank you all.

Mine is a 83 SC with the hard fuel lines.

It is out of the car now. No engine drop not even a partial one.

I have removed all the full lines to the injectors and the pope's hat. That gave me plenty of room.

I removed the driver side runners first -this was unnecessary.

I removed the pax runnner closest to the back of the car. That was necessary as it gave me a shot on the last bolt of the front intake runner on that side. That bolt alone took me half an hour. If yours isn't seized then you should not need to take the runner out.

I had to cut the oil breather hose as the ring spanner was rusted. No big deal. New hose.

Would i recommend it? No. If you have the room for an engine drop do it. I am sure it will not make you quicker but it will indeed be easier on the back.

Watch this space.

Michel

[Vereeken]

Iceman? ARe those before pictures? That is clean!

[CorsePerVita]

Originally Posted by Vereeken

Thank you all.

Mine is a 83 SC with the hard fuel lines.

It is out of the car now. No engine drop not even a partial one.

I have removed all the full lines to the injectors and the pope's hat. That gave me plenty of room.

I removed the driver side runners first -this was unnecessary.

I removed the pax runnner closest to the back of the car. That was necessary as it gave me a shot on the last bolt of the front intake runner on that side. That bolt alone took me half an hour. If yours isn't seized then you should not need to take the runner out.

I had to cut the oil breather hose as the ring spanner was rusted. No big deal. New hose.

Would i recommend it? No. If you have the room for an engine drop do it. I am sure it will not make you quicker but it will indeed be easier on the back.

Watch this space.

Michel

Was it necessary to actually remove the fuel lines themselves? Or could it be done without disconnecting them?

I am about to take mine all apart so that I can replace ALL of my runner seals, the airbox gasket and thoroughly go through my car once and for all and have the peace of mind knowing everything is done.

I hate disconnecting fuel lines and reconnecting them over and over again, so it'd be nice if I didn't have to, of course, if it ends up being necessary it is what it is.

All I really need to do is replace my runner boots, runner seals and the airbox gasket.

[Vereeken]

I believe it is necessary to remove all fuel lines. If you do not you will damage one of them or you need to do a partial engine drop to get it all out.

On my car they came apart quite easily. It looks like they are made of quality material.

You certainly have to disconnect the three fuel lines at the back of the fuel distributor. You could disconnect those as well at the fuel filter.

Michel

[CorsePerVita]

Cool thanks for the info Vereeken.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Four reasons why we took the engine out of the car;

1. Anytime fuel lines are disconnected the risk of contamination in the fuel system becomes very high.
2. Avoid damage to the engine compartment insulation pad (95% of the cars that we maintained still had a blanket, and most were in good/excellent condition).
3. Dealing with the right side support bracket at cylinder #6 is just too difficult on cars with automatic cold start ('76 >), especially installation. And that bracket and its rubber support must be installed correctly, without it the fuel mixture will change with vibration.
4. For aesthetic reasons, it's virtually impossible to have the runner sleeve hose clamps turned/facing the original direction.

And then, there's the air leak issue. When the entire airbox system is assembled on the bench, and lowered directly onto the engine, air leaks become a non-issue.

[Vereeken]

Peter,

Number 3 is interesting. What is an automated Cold Start System. Do you mean the Thermal Valve and CSV?

For one reason or another I can not seem to get a good seal on intake runner #3 at the cillinder head. Even with a new gasket. I have checked the runner base and cilinder connecting point and they are smooth.

This intake runner has a bracket attached that holds the hard fuel lines to the back of the FD. Is it possible that vibration from this bracket brakes the seal?

Michel

[Vereeken]

Well,

The cleaning has begun.

first thing I found was that the foam seal between the plunger plate/Fuel distributor assembly that sits atop the airbox is completely gone.

I do not think it is very important as the false air that you suck at that point still has to go through the meter plate and in that sense never becomes false air. But ofcourse it is not filtered.

The rubber O-rings from the CSV and throttle body look intact and if you would throw them between new ones you would not be able to tell the difference.

Second surprise. The CSV has an air line going to it and draws air. The air line is connected to the AAV which is connected to the air intake So again metered and filtered air.

Would air always go trough or does the AAV close after start up? How does this AAV open close? It has no electrical connections and is not heated by engine. Or does the CSV not only command fuel injection but also air?

Michel

[suprxman]

Just thought I'd put my two cents worth in here about CIS removal. I'm 61 yrs old and just removed the CIS out of my 80 SC in about 3 hours with no dropping engine. I followed silvers directions. There were a few difficult parts to reach but it wasn't really too bad. I hadn't planned to drive the car untill spring warmup so I can clean the area up and find out why no cold start. One of the vacuum lines was disconnected so that may be the culprit.
I love this forum and the incredible amount of info available. Many thanks to the people that give their time to help and to Pelicans supprt.

[Vereeken]

3 hours is about right. Not easy on the back though.

Also a good time to take the engine shrouding off and paint it with high temp paint.

Freshens up the place.

Michel

[VaSteve]

I took it out of my 83 a couple of years ago and in the process scratched the paint on the fender when some element got hooked on something and my attention went to unhooking it. I was beside myself pissed.

It's very heavy and awkward. I honestly can't recall if I did a partial drop or not.

Since I felt like putting it back in with the engine in place would be like building a ship in a bottle, I had a friend come over and we did a quick drop and reinstall.