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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 250
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Impossible to get the roll pin in the pedal cluster to move....
I am in the process of rebuilding my pedal cluster with bronze bushings. However, I can't get the roll pin that holds the clutch pedal in place out. I have tried drilling, but I have not succeeded in drilling all of it out. I have tried heating it up and then smashing at it with a punch and a big hammer. I have tried the mechanical press I have in my garage, but it is impossible to get the pedal cluster orientated properly for it to work.
So, can I just use a grinder and cut a slot in the pedal, and just weld it back afterwards when I am done? Or will this not work? I am really sick and tired of this now, have spent two days on the damn thing... |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
Posts: 5,523
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I have never had a problem with it. You may need a work buddy to relieve you when you are tired of it.
Did you try anything like PB blaster?
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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What?!?!
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I would not cut it. Let one of your buddies take a fresh look at it. You may be spinning your wheels. I did this same job in my garage and again at the track. The track was tough as we had no vise to lock it into but we made do. We've all been there on these smaller type jobs. Take a step back and regroup. Hold off on the radical measures!
Hang in there!!
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running shoes, couple tools, fishing pole 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback AWD, 5speed 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX, 5speed 2014 Tundra SR5, 4x4 1964 Land Rover SII A 109 - sold this albatross |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 873
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I dealt with the exact same problem a couple of weeks ago. I could not punch/press the pin out no matter what I did. Tried to drill it out - broke 2 bits, with the last one firmly stuck in the pin, further wedging the pin in!
I sprayed the pin with more WD40, went away for a few hours, came back, took the punch tapped on one end (with broken bit), then a few good whacks on the other end and poof, out the f**ker comes! Patience! It'll come out with gentle persuasion.....
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....gone watercooled. |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Drill out the pin. Make sure you drill from the right direction so that the edge of the roll pin does not grab your drill bit and break it. Start small and progressively get larger.
Then clamp the clutch cable end in a vice. heat the clutch arm lever at the base where it meets the shaft until it is cherry red. You will need a MAP or Oxy/acetylene torch to do this. Then use a drift to cool the center rod section. Repeat the heat/cool cycle 2-3X and then simply twist off the clutch arm. This has always worked for me on even the most stubborn parts.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 250
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Thanks for all the advice!
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Altamonte Springs, Florida
Posts: 342
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I have never had to drill one of the pins out...maybe I'm just lucky. My trick is to soak it with PB Blaster and then with a flap sander or a dremmel grind off one end of the pin flush with the clutch arm. Then when you apply the drift and the hammer to it, it will not mushroom out and bind in the arm.
BTW make sure that you use a correct roll pin when reassembling it. I have seen more than one kit which did not have the right pin in it. The correct roll pin looks like a rolled up newspaper from the end view perspective. An incorrect pin is an open "C" shape. These can fail over a period of time with some very, very unfortunate results.
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FC '73 911 Track Car '99 996 Daily Driver '93 968 Wife's Car '05 Cayanne S Family Car |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,456
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that's why shops have air hammers. you just need them sometimes.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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AutoBahned
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use very HIGH quality drill bits (Milwaukie is what I used) and drill just a tad out of the center with each pass - use a lube on the bit
the freaking pins are hardened & a mess then beat or press it out - using a jig to hold the thing where yo can get at it most importantly, you have to have a stubborn mentality -- if you lack the genetic defect of Scottish Stubborness you will have to cultivate a "I WILL pull thes #$%^&* badger out of its hole" attitude. Good Luck |
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Registered
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Maybe a stupid question, but do you removed the cluster? Because I cannot understand the problem of orientation at a press...
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Roland 930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Altamonte Springs, Florida
Posts: 342
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Yes, you have to remove the cluster from the car. The awkward shape of the assembly along with the position of the pin makes it difficult to use a press on the piece.
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FC '73 911 Track Car '99 996 Daily Driver '93 968 Wife's Car '05 Cayanne S Family Car |
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