stud pulling options

dsmyth · 01-27-2010, 07:02 PM

I have removed my heat exchangers and only three of the studs came out. the nuts came off the others. Nothing broken. I would like to replace the other studs. I will apply heat and have used pennetrating oil. Is there something other than a stud puller that I can use as I dont have one? Any tricks to grab them ,not wanting to use vice grips as I would rather leave them than break them. thanks Doug

Walt Fricke · 01-27-2010, 07:43 PM

Yes - double nutting. Screw one nut down about one nut's width below the top of the stud. Screw another on top of it. Hold one, tighten the other against it. Then use an open end wrench to turn the bottom nut counter clockwise. Slower than a good stud puller, but does the job.

If you find one doesn't want to come out despite persuasion, you might consider leaving it as a reward for its tenacity. Otherwise you risk breaking it off if you just keep upping the torque.

Walt

dsmyth · 01-27-2010, 08:23 PM

Thanks Walt

C4 Pazzo · 01-27-2010, 08:26 PM

I would leave them. The risk of breaking a stud isn't worth it. Those studs look like they will work just fine to me.

aigel · aigel's Garage

If the engine is out, I'd remove all of them. If they break, drill them out. That steel has become very brittle from heat cycling over the years and if you have them break later while the engine is in the car and you are doing maintenance on it, you will regret not putting all new hardware while it was easy.

If the engine is in the car, forget about it - just reuse.

One comment on the double nutting ... you can put a box end wrench on the bottom nut if you put it on there from the get go.

George

Geronimo '74 · 01-27-2010, 08:51 PM

Double nutting did not work for me, the threads were too far gone.
When tightening the two nuts together I stripped the thread completely.
Luckily my engine is out and completly disassembled, so the rest of the remaining studs will be removed by the machine shop.

Walt Fricke · 01-27-2010, 10:37 PM

If you strip the threads, but don't have a machine shop in your plan, you can try cleaning up the stud end and welding a nut onto it.

While one would think such a stud might be ready to snap, at that point it ought not to matter - if the welded nut approach works, problem solved. If it results in a broken stud, well that's where you are headed anyway. The welding might also do a decent job of heating the stud to loosen the rust to aluminum bond.

Walt

don gilbert · don gilbert's Garage

Ive broken alot of exhaust studs, its not the bad if you break them, esp. with the engine out of the car, they drill out pretty easy.

Rot 911 · 01-28-2010, 05:21 AM

Even John Walker says if they ain't broke then leave them alone! Just wire brush them and use some anti seize when you put the nuts back on.

88-diamondblue · 01-28-2010, 11:50 AM

If they have good threads leave them in and use high heat copper anti-seize. Not worth the risk to break them. Of course JMHO

don gilbert · don gilbert's Garage

here is what i did on mine when some broke, drilled them out to 10mm and used hardened allen bolts. was able to torque the heck out of them, and never have to worry about exhaust leaks. Just an idea if all goes wrong. good luck.

dsmyth · 01-28-2010, 02:55 PM

Am I better off going as low down as possible on the stud to reduce the flex and possibility of snap? I was going to also use a torch to heat up the area around the stud. Doug

dsmyth · 01-28-2010, 08:11 PM

Three came out easily and then snap!!! It broke with hardly any pressure. Oh well its been going to easy. The engine is out so I will drill and try an easy out first and then go to plan B.

C4 Pazzo · 01-28-2010, 09:25 PM

Don't use an easy out. When (not if) it breaks off you will be in a world of hurt. Drill it out using a left hand bit and a jig to make sure the bit is square.

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

You still might be able to remove the broken one by welding a nut to it. Since it's shorter it will twist less and is less likely to break. Heat is your friend. Weld a nut to it and then quickly put a wrench on it while it is still hot and give it several quicks taps with a hammer to break the bond. Once it breaks loose your home free.

Be sure to put a torch on the rest of the studs before you try to remove them, (Mapp gas works fine) heat them to dull red and then a few light raps with a hammer on the wrench to break them loose. Tap the stud clockwise and counter clockwise to break it loose. Applying torque to a weakened seized stud is what breaks them. They end up twisting off.