Axle Nut Removal Pain

[MattAlpha]

It has been a while since I've worked on my car, helped by a year away from home but I'm back now for a while and its time to get the car in proper working order.

I'm in the middle of my second project, re-packing my CV joints and replacing the boots after discovering the inner boot for the passenger side had torn while I was deployed. I found it while I was completing my first project (replacing the windshield and doing some routine maintenance) last week.

I knew that I would eventually have to do this repair so about three years ago I collected all the needed materials (four rebuild kits, new cotter pins, snap rings, and the roll pins). Well I thought I had everything that I needed but I've run into a big snag. After trying the method that "88-diamondblue" (thread Carrera CV Boot Replacement) showed to remove the axle nut, I bent the steel pry bar. Yeah, that amazed the crap out of me. I've used that bar for years and never had a problem, but now it has a cool new bend. So I put the wheels back on the car and worked through the wheel/hub with the transmission in reverse, parking brake on and a set of wheel chocks in place. I was able to break the driver's side axle nut free with nearly all of the strength that I could muster. When I tried the other side I broke my 1/2 rachet breaker bar and the 10 inch extension I was using in the same moment (same tools I used on the driver's side). I've seen rachets and extensions break before, but never in the same moment. So I've got replacement tools now and I've used some PB Blaster in the hope that the corrosion between the nut the and the axle shaft is the heart of the problem.

Two areas that I think may be making this nut so hard to remove are:
-The corrosion between the nut and the axle shaft.
-The last time the nut was installed it was over torqued.
Then it may be a combination of both...

I'm going to try to brut force it again in the morning, but if that doesn't work then I'm thinking about going the heat method. I am concerned about causing damage to the wheel bearing while heating the axle nut. I'll be careful to only heat the nut, is this a bad idea?

If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know.

Thanks,
Matt

[wildcat077]

Matt,

The best way to do it is with an impact gun if you have access to a good compressor...
You could always go to any corner garage and ask the guys to break the nuts loose for you
and head back home to finish the job !

They're on pretty tight as i replaced my axle boots last summer,i know what you mean

Cheers !
Phil

[88-diamondblue]

Matt,

Later on in the thread it was mentioned that it was better to have the wheels on the car sitting on the ground and try to remove the nut. Less stress on everything except the person doing it. I used Kroil and the nuts let go almost immediately. Those nuts are on are on there with a lot of torque. Not sure of the torque for an SC but the Carrera is on there with 335Ft Lbs. If you have access to 3/4" breaker bar or a big f'n impact wrench or heavy duty breaker bar with a long pipe. Ratchet's don't handle the high torque stuff very well. Good luck with the other nut.

[MattAlpha]

Thanks guys.

I've got an actual 1/2 inch breaker bar now that I'm going to try in the morning. If that doesn't work then I'll try a local wrench to break it for me. Unfortunately I do not have an air tools, never thought I'd really need them...

I am concerned about driving it with the axle nuts not torqued down properly and potentially causing my CV's to get damaged do to a lack of proper pressure supplied by the axle nut. If I can't break it loose in the morning, then I'll go this route.

Thanks,
Matt

[mtb001]

I used a 3/4" breaker bar ( and socket) with 3' galvanized pipe over the handle, broke the first 1/2" breaker bar also, wheels on the ground, in gear, parking brake on as much as possilble.

[James Brown]

I was getting ready to rip someone a new one for not just removing the CV bolts from the axle till I realized that it is a Carrera. Bummer, the big nuts a btch without the right tools. I like the "take it to a auto/truck shop and just loosen them" approach, just hope it's close buy. (don't forget the clamps).

[yelcab1]

Don't try it with 1/2 breaker bar. Move up to a 3/4 inch instead. Or, pay your local tire shop to loosen it for you, and put it back at 100lbs and limp home.

[vancouver86/911]

Matt,
I just finished doing this exact repair. A 1/2" breaker bar only bent when I used it. I had to buy a 3/4" breaker bar, put the car on the ground, emergency brake on, and I used the jack handle from my floor jack as extension on the breaker bar and pulled down on a blocked tire. Both nuts popped off no problem with the 3/4" bar. To put them back on I did the same thing to tighten them enough to be able to drive the car to a truck repair shop and they used the biggest torque wrench I have ever seen to torque them to spec. Good luck with it.
Glad to see you made it home safe from deployment.

[cary]

3/4 breaker bar. 5 feet of back pipe from Home Depot. Slip the pipe over the breaker bar and stand on it.
Jack handle will work. But 5 feet gives you more torque when you go to put it back on. This is done wheel on car, on the ground.

[bazar01]

Just did this to the 964. I just went to the nearest truck tire shop and have them break loose the nut, then retighten to the third setting on his four settings impact wrench so as not to damage the wheel bearings on the way home. Make sure the axle nut is snugged or torqued to at least 150 ft-lbs. or you will damage the wheel bearings and drive slow. Lubed and replaced boots in 4 hours, tighten the axle nut to 150 ft-lbs., then went back to the tire shop to tighten axle nuts to maximum impact setting. Paid the tire shop $50 for the service.

[CCM911]

Originally Posted by cary

3/4 breaker bar. 5 feet of back pipe from Home Depot. Slip the pipe over the breaker bar and stand on it.
Jack handle will work. But 5 feet gives you more torque when you go to put it back on. This is done wheel on car, on the ground.

+1

3/4 inch and a length of black pipe from the Home Depot. Wheels on the ground.

Oh, thanks for your service to our country.

[sc-dude]

I scanned through the replies, but didn't see this: the threads are 'handed' for each side are they not? Make sure you are loosening, and not tightening. If I remember correctly, the thread side/direction on the nut you have removed will be opposite of the other side you cannot break free.

For me, an big impact gun & compressor did the trick.

Just thought i'd mention it - been there done that!

[shbop]

If you have any extension on the socket, be sure to put a jack stand under it, right before the breaker bar. Give yourself the best fulcrum advantage you can.

[Number1_dog]

I had my wheels up on a ramp and I used my small hydraulic jack under the breaker bar and jacked the bar up.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by sc-dude

I scanned through the replies, but didn't see this: the threads are 'handed' for each side are they not? Make sure you are loosening, and not tightening. If I remember correctly, the thread side/direction on the nut you have removed will be opposite of the other side you cannot break free.

For me, an big impact gun & compressor did the trick.

Just thought i'd mention it - been there done that!

The threads on both left and right axles are the same i.e. righty tighty , lefty loosey. In fact you can exchange axles left for right, as there is only one axle p/n (or stub axle) for 911 varients.

[MattAlpha]

Thanks guys, I'm still soaking and I need to locate a truck stop here in the Newport area. I'll post some pics of the broken tools and the method that was successful on the driver's side before I broke stuff.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by MattAlpha

Thanks guys.

I've got an actual 1/2 inch breaker bar now that I'm going to try in the morning. If that doesn't work then I'll try a local wrench to break it for me. Unfortunately I do not have an air tools, never thought I'd really need them...

I am concerned about driving it with the axle nuts not torqued down properly and potentially causing my CV's to get damaged do to a lack of proper pressure supplied by the axle nut. If I can't break it loose in the morning, then I'll go this route.

Thanks,
Matt

Amazing! You already broke a 1/2" bar and now you're going back for more with another 1/2" bar?

Please, listen to the people telling you that a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar is needed.

FYI, the axle nut is on there with about 220 ft-lbs and a 1/2" bar is a joke.

This issue about 1/2" instead of 3/4" has been covered many times, do a search.

Aside from the right 3/4"-drive 30mm? socket, you'll need a 3/4" breaker bar with an extension (Steel pipe), wheels on the ground, going through the center of the wheel with a short 3/4" extension on the socket. Then apply the brake, select reverse gear and step on the end of the pipe that's on the bar to crack it loose.

If you don't have the right gear, how are you going to get the correct torque of 220-230 ft-lbs when you put it all back together?

[ben parrish]

Just did mine on the 86. 3/4 breaker bar; two foot long. NO PROBLEM.

[MattAlpha]

Gunter I would love to use a 3/4" tools but no one here (NAPA, Sears or Autozone) carries a 30mm 3/4" socket. If someone near by has one I would love to borrow them. Once I find a service center or a truck stop where I'm able to break it free and then have them torqued properly after re-assembling at home. The two places I went to today didn't have the right tools either. I may have to order the 3/4" tools from NAPA that I need. I'm going to stop by a few more places in the morning and see if any of them can do it.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by MattAlpha

Gunter I would love to use a 3/4" tools but no one here (NAPA, Sears or Autozone) carries a 30mm 3/4" socket. If someone near by has one I would love to borrow them. Once I find a service center or a truck stop where I'm able to break it free and then have them torqued properly after re-assembling at home. The two places I went to today didn't have the right tools either. I may have to order the 3/4" tools from NAPA that I need. I'm going to stop by a few more places in the morning and see if any of them can do it.

Just a tip, to save you a mistake: the socket is a 32MM NOT 30MM!!! Before you check NAPA (very pricey) try Harbor Freight if you have one anywhere nearby, you can find 3/4" drive tools at reasonable prices there. You can also buy from them online.