I'm no welding expert but wouldn't you want to weld it with the case bolted together to keep it from distorting? Maybe weld it and then take it apart.

I am going to take the piece that broke out to a welder today and see what his opinion is. I know welders can braze different types of metals so maybe cut a slug out of alum and braze it in there. There isn't that much pressure in the case so maybe will hold. If I have to take the motor apart I might as well get it rebuilt with a new case.
If it is weldable and I flush out the bottom end to make sure there isn't any metal parts lying inside do you think I will still need to split the case? It is a very clean break and already got a 10 Litre flush.

not a strech at all. Hammer up a nice fitting patch drill it in 4 corners and use it as a template to drill the case. Tap in 4 bolts and ...wait for it....JB weld the plate in place. the worst failure you would see is a drip leak. clean the drill and tap frass up via the hole. Remove the sump plate and use it and the hole to flush wash out any oil during the repair.

The hand wringers will disagree but I bet I could have you on the road in weell under 4 hours (+epoxie set time) using $5 worth of stuff.

YES any welding will require the case to be split. Mag flows heat too well and the entire case will get real hot.

JB weld?!

What happens on the highway, at speed, as you dump 10 quarts of oil?...

Forget about toasting your motor, thats the least of your issues...

You will be in court for the next ten years as all of the cars in your wake wipe out...

Thats a lawyers wet dream...

Marine Tex, a reinforcing plate, a few rivets/screws to hold it in on top of the original chunk and I cannot imagine a hole in that place on the case EVER letting go.

As he looks at the jury, "Your Honor! I read on the internet that this was totally safe..."

Defendant, call your next witness!

"Your honor, I call kenikh..."

:) Could happen... ;)

When I was machining, we used to do repairs on similar repairs on all sorts of cast housings.
There is no permenant repair (in my opinion) without removal of the case and taking it to a machine shop.
you can have them set it up on a milling machine, bore the hole round (it is surprisingly round now), mill a step or spotface on the surface and drill and tap about 8 holes around the diameter of the step.
They then make a stepped plug out of aluminum amd bolt it on, no welding, no warping and you have a sweet access hole that no other 911 has.
Bad thing is, you have to do it out of the car.
I'm in Saskatoon, and there are lots of shops here that would do it, I'm pretty sure that someone in Yorkton could do it.

Glad to hear you weren't under it when the jack let go.

Although I would like to be in the court room when the "Epoxy" guy was on the stand that would be interesting.

Well the insurance people want 3 quotes to get it fixed. Good luck for that. Any ideas if removing the motor for a case swap would be cheaper than finding a rebuilt motor ready to drop in? If so, without me having to piss around on the net, anyone know what motors will drop in this car? Be nice to keep it under $5 grand shipped.

If you want to do a motor swap, depending on how much you want to spend, how much power your want, and how much effort you desire to put into it, you can use any of the Porsche 911 air cooled engines from 2.0 to 3.6 liter.

As the displacement incleases you will need to face issues such as making sure the transmission can handle the power, proving adequate cooling, getting the electricals to match up etc.

Honestly, if you go to a porsche dealer you will get just one quote... and that number will be enough to "total out" your car...

I don't think the adjuster realizes how expensive this can be to fix. You could do it yourself for several grand with a used engine, and several months of spare weekends...

Just checking. We just had an accident in HNL where a jack collapsed on a guy. Why don't people follow safety procedures?

Wow, almost looks like a perfect circle.

I would second the opinion of needing a new engine. Time to build the one you've been wanting...

Also this serves as a reminder to others to not put a jack stand under the engine or transmission. There are structurally sound positions all over the car for supporting it with jack stands.

A motor swap would be cheaper.

As noted if you ask a Porsche dealer for a quote to "Replace engine case" SGI will write off your car.

I seem to remember that a new case from Porsche was about $4,000 - I was looking at getting one for my S a while back, but decided to do the machine work to keep the original case number.

The machine work was about $1,500 and included resizing the case back to standard, pistons squirters, case savers, etc.

Personally, I think the best option would be to find an early sandcast aluminum case and rebuild your engine with the correct case for the car - it should run about $1,000 for the case and becasue it's aluminum, you probably won't have to do the expensive resizing machine work.

Regards,
Andrew M

So I can use that new alum case and just attach all my original parts onto it with no problems?? Hopefully?

Yes - I think you said the engine is a 69, so it's probably still a 2.0. All the pieces should bolt up no problem.

In my track car, I currently have an aluminum case based 2.6 and I love it. You could use this situation as an opportunity to build up a hot rod 2.0 or something.

Regards,
Andrew M

Just think with the aluminum case it will have protecting ribs in that area. :)

Glad to see so many great suggestions. I would be tempted to try the epoxy fix while I was shopping for a new case/motor.

Alright, its motor case shopping time. Will definately tweak that little 2.0 to get some more ponies.

at least it not an early aluminum case. The 2.0 Mag cases arent too dear..
Bruce