UNLESS, it belongs to your numbers matching '69S. :rolleyes:

-About the Marine Tex.

I once plugged up a hole on the case of a 2-stroke jet-ski engine that I had converted to total loss ignition. The hole was were the stator wires came out of the case. I tried this marine tex stuff and applied it to the hole in the case after cleaning it as best as I could.

A few years later I had the engine out for a rebuild and decided to "knock" out the marine tex in order to properly weld the hold shut.

Let me tell you, It took some serious beating with a hammer and an old screwdriver to get that marine tex to break free from the case. I was pounding the crap out of it! I was very impressed with how strong the stuff is.

I'm not saying that this is the best repair for your case (pun intended) but just wanted to shed some light on how good my experience with marine tex was.

Supertec uses an eopxy bonding process on engine cases to fit their spigot bore reducers to bring cases that were overbored back to stock spec. They have been tested in race engines and don't fail. If bonding works in one of the most highlt stressed parts of the case, why not in a part with zero stress?

Hey, another medic on the boards! I agree totally... to the point I mark my stands and jack with weight rating and will not use stands that are the same as the jack rating, only larger (ie... my 3 ton stands are for the 2 ton jack).

Yes, people have done it. I wasn't going to suggest it for fear of losing what little credibility I have here, but a lot of guys have done stuff like this and made a good job of it. For someone confident of their abilities, this is a viable option.

Not really something I would want to do on a nice car, but I have done enough repairs like this to know it works.

What is impossible for some, is possible for others. However, I would not suggest it or in any way condone it, except to say it is possible.

DOes that sound like a disclaimer ? ;)

I was given the name of a welder who can weld magnesium.
He used to live near Vancouver but has since moved to Northern BC
Porsche shop who sends him their work, ships it up on Greyhound and he returns it same method.
Prior to his move he welded a magnesium transmission case on my car.
email me if you want his name and address and I will look it up. Probably cheaper than buying a new old case.........
cseldenattelusdotnet

Yikes! I would do a repair for a numbers matching, otherwise get a new case.

#s matching?
 

Why is everyone so wound up about numbers matching? If a case is an exact factory replacement or a correct case from a salvage car- What's the big deal?

Folks replace tires, fenders, wheels, lamps and exhaust systems- yet chassis, engine and transmission #s must match or a vehicle loses value. I don't understand why a perfect (even factory new) case would detract so much value.

Is a car worth more with a slug of Marine-Tex in the case than the same car with a perfect new case? It sounds silly to me.

What am I missing? ...and how do I tell if the numbers DO match?

Gringo - Call Bob Dumur at Dumur Industries in White City 306 757 2403. Tell him Scotty from Calgary told you to call. They have some very talented and specialized welders there that could probably weld this up without disassembling the engine. You would have to remove the engine from the car.

Bob is a great guy and if he can help you, he will.

I usually try to stop myself from giving questionable advice on a public forum...

However this time I will not restrain myself. Im not sure exactly what you should do, however I know if it was my car I would get creative with a patch to keep the car on the road while I planned out an engine case replacement. IMO the only thing you're risking is putting another hole in your already well ventilated case. You will undoubtably replace more parts than you expect if you are tearing it down to the crank anyway. And you said it was a little tired right?

Run it until you kill it my friend! SmileWavy

My only dislclaimer would be this:
If someone brought that to me and tried to hire me to patch it, I would run like hell. You gotta know when to hold 'em, and when to fold 'em. Doubt you'll get anyone to stake a reputation on a patch.

PS If you decide to patch, be sure to carefully inspect the fractured components and ensure that you have ALL the pieces. If youre not sure you have it all, I'd throw in the towel, because you will definitely cause some problems in short order.

there is a '65 long block for sale in the classifieds.

Hi Gringo,

Tough luck, man. I feel for you. There's probably other places here in Saskatoon, but if it were me, I'd be talking to Yogi at Prairie ******** (652-0888) about either option: a repair or sourcing another case or engine.

Good luck,
Rod.

Hey Gringo
Thats really a shame to see, have family in Yorkton and was planning on taking the 930 out this summer if I do I'll send you a mail and we can hook up for a beer or 2 , good luck with your new project IMHO I would get a replacement case

soory to hear that man it sure looks awfull, I think i would take a chance with trying to weld it first,,, good luck

Any thought of going after the jack manufacturer? Or is it a Chinese POS?

I don't think going after the jack manufacturer would be successfull, they might turn around and say it was not used properly and they might take forever to respond.

Hell if that hole was completely round, I bet a rubber plug would be sufficient to keep the oil in. My only worry with the rubber plug would be crankcase pressure being enough to blow it out. That is neither a stressed or load bearing area of the case. Marine tex, and the broken out piece, will seal that hole up nicely and will probably be there long after that engine is used up.

I have patched many a hole in motocross engine cases and was able to keep using the engine. On one engine, with a hole in part of the top of the case, I was able to use duct tape to keep the oil in for a couple of days until I could do a more permanent patch!

JB weld it, then think of it like having a freeze plug repaired.