Accelerator Rod Bushing: How Do I Get To Them

[Baby]

While inspecting the throttle linkage on my 83 I noticed that the passenger-side bushing on the accelerator console atop the engine is toast. Looks like a PITA to get at. Anyone have any tips for replacing these bushings? What I need to remove to get in there?

I believe this is the part: Pelican Parts - Product Information: 901-423-253-00-M260

[Superman]

If you still have a fresh air fan atop the motor, I'd guess that has to come out. Might make sense to do a partial engine drop. Be sure to disconnect the shift coupler under the access plate on the tunnel first. Disconnect the engine electrical plug, blah blah, and the front of the engine (rear of the car) can be lowered a few inches.

[Gunter]

Good point about removing the fan blower to make room.

If you have good manual dexterity, you may try to do it without a partial drop.

Pop off the linkage levers from the bellcrank with a long screwdriver and disconnect the long spring going to the #2 intake runner. Remove the nut and washer on the shaft. Slide out the shaft. Install 2 new bushings and reverse the process.

[Baby]

Thanks for the tips. I was wondering if it’s feasible to cut the bushing lengthwise, wrap it around the shaft, cement the bushing (at the cut), and slide it into place on the shaft---all of this without disassembling the mechanism. What do you think?

[lindy 911]

Here's what your looking at. I have carbs so it is a lot easier than with CIS but I think it would be easier to unbolt the whole thing and then rebush the shaft. It is easy to get the shaft out of the bracket so cutting the bushings would not be necessary.

Lindy

[Baby]

I'm not all that keen to move the motor. I hadn't considered unbolting the console. That may be helpful. Thanks again.

[MBAtarga]

I did mine with a partial engine drop while replacing the oil thermostat o-ring and the pressure switch.

[James Brown]

Best to bundle a bunch of things togeather like a new idiot light sender, breather gaskets, oil thermostat O ring, bushings, cleaning, rubber hose replacement, wire re wrap, ect. you only want to do this once.

[Gunter]

Cutting the bushings etc. is a pipe dream.

Consider what James is saying and maybe do a few things together.

[Baby]

OK, I hear you. But what is the benefit of the partial engine drop in this case? I assume increasing my reach to the throttle console by a few inches is not a benefit. Is it that the access angle changes when the motor is lowered?

[lindy 911]

If you can reach around the CIS stuff and get to the console nuts, don't drop the motor. There's a lot of work involved that is a waste if you can get to the nuts without the drop. I think you can but I'm not sure. This re-bush is fairly straight forward and simple. Dig in and see what happens.

Lindy

[James Brown]

And if you can rase the car a few feet it will save your back and knees! You can take the intake runners off on the left side to gain more access.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by Baby

OK, I hear you. But what is the benefit of the partial engine drop in this case?

The partial engine drop saves you the full engine drop!

But seriously- yes, the partial drop lowers the front of the engine - which gives you much easier access to the top, back of the engine to reach this area.

[Cooper911SC]

NO Need for a partial engine drop...I did this recently on my SC with motor out...THEN did a friend's car with the motor installed a few weeks later.

1) You will need to remove the heater blower and ducting.
2) You will need a long reach magnet tool, a longish 3/8" swivel extension (U-joint) and a 13mm socket.

The throttle return springs need to be disconnected as already stated. Next pop off the throttle linkage at the console. The console itself can now be unbolted.
It is held down by the 13mm nuts and spring type lock washers...this is where the magnet tool comes in VERY handy. One of the nuts also holds down a support bracket for the back side of the air box.

After the nuts are off it is just a matter of lifting the throttle console out and then disassembling on the bench for new bushings.

Both my car and my friend's had plastic bits of leftover bushings...I used new brass type bushings rather than the Porsche plastic ones.

What an amazing difference to have a functional smooth throttle.

Just FYI the aluminum throttle console is NLA. Mine was slightly wallowed out from the shaft rubbing on it over the years. The new bushings still mated fine though.

Don't forget to add a small amount of grease to the throttle linkages before poping them back onto the bell crank.

Be patient with this job. It's just time consuming with the limited access.

Cooper

[Gunter]

Amen.

[Baby]

Thanks for the feedback. I had another look last night, and it appears that I should be able to get in there once the blower is out of there. The parts should arrive Monday, so I'll have a go early next week.

[fredmo1947]

Great thread. I've been trying to diagnose the sticky throttle response and discovered my engine bell crank bushing on the passenger side is gone. I've ordered the brass bushings from our host and will start the job when they arrive. I've not removed the linkage arms from the bell crank before. How best is this done? Do they literally pop off with a twist of a screw driver?

[Gunter]

Yes, and use a small dab of grease when you pop them back on.

There are other linkages underneath that can use some lube and the bell crank on the transmission needs a few drops of oil.

[Baby]

While putting everything back together, I can't seem to get the throttle return spring (the one that hooks onto the intake) installed. I've hooked one end of the spring to the throttle linkage on the console and am using a wire with a hooked end to pull the other end toward the rear of the car, where I grab it with a pair of needlenose pliars and try to hook it to the eyelet on the intake. No dice.

The only other hitch I ran into was the linkage on the console, the one that goes through the firewall and underneath the car. I could not pop it off for the life of me. I tried all kinds of angles, but I didn't want to lever it too hard for fear something might bend (rather, that the stuff that was bending wouldn't bend back). I ended up unhooking the linkage from underneath the car and pulling it up through the firewall. I noticed the socket that attached the linkage to the plate on the console had some kind of built in wire that appeared to permanently attach it to the ball.

Otherwise, the job has been pretty easy, once I figured out the best angle of approach for each bolt. If I ever figure out this spring issue without removing the CIS, the rest should go fast.

[fredmo1947]

Based on your thread and experience I am in the middle of the same job, replacing the engine bell crank bushings. I was able to pop off the linkage arms without a problem and did not need to remove the consol. The bell crank came out fairly easily and I am awaiting the parts from our host. I did notice however I was missing the long return spring. I was contemplating how to attach it when it arrives and thought perhaps hooking up to the intake eyelet first, then stretching the spring with a pair of needle nose vice grips to attach to the bell crank. It will be a tight job, and we'll see if the plan works. Also, the above diagram shows the long straight end of the spring attached to the bell crank. I wonder if this is correct? Guess I should know in a day or so once the parts arrive.