Time to dig in...softie conversion

[speedo]

Just like when the wife takes her car to the mechanic to ask him about "that noise" and the car refuses to make the noise. They try endlessly to replicate the conditions where the noise occurs...and it doesn't. Well I picked my crappiest looking starter as it was going to be a core anyway. The place I use in Boulder is Vanatta's Electric, and as the story goes...he got sick of working for IBM years ago, and bought the shop as he likes working with his hands. He is a bit gruff, but knows his stuff. He grabbed the starter and clamped it to his bench tester...clamped on ground and positive, and of course it fired right up. Of course it did
I felt like an idiot. The good news was that once the solenoid fired and the starter gear extended...it stayed extended, which was actually bad news for the starter...but in a twisted way, good for me as it showed that the starter did indeed have problems. Not the problem that I claimed, but problems. As I left the shop $150 poorer with my swapped/rebuilt correct Bosch starter...I was ok with that. Hate to install something (with an unknown history) that doesn't work and have to uninstall it to fix (or get it fixed). No, I have never done that
Small but first success of the day


I knew that when I committed to swapping the trannie from a pull (70-71) clutch to a push (64-69 and later 72 on) clutch that the clutch cable in the tunnel would need to be replaced with the correct cable. Been kind of putting this off as I dislike fishing things through the tunnel. I had been thinking of a way to make this operation less dis-tasteful. I'm sure this has been done before...but it occurred to me that if I disconnected the cable at the pedal cluster, tied a thick string to the forward end of the new cable and pulled the cable aft being careful not to shear the string...once the cable was free of the tunnel, I could use the string to attach to the forward end of the new correct cable and carefully pull it through the tunnel. My history in pushing things through the tunnel is that they always tend to find obstructions to catch on. Did I say "always". This worked perfectly. There was still some evidence of "media" in the greased old cable that was removed...but the new greased cable installation was a piece of cake. I had to pull up the drivers pedal carpet and wood floorboard to get to the pedal cluster and cable...so I think I will not replace those till I get the engine installed and the clutch cable fully adjusted. Second small success.

Last accomplishment was something I was considering when I rebuilt the carbs, but didn't know enough about the circuit to make a decision. The auxiliary enrichment circuit was something I knew people delete...but I wanted to know what it did, why it was there and why it was often deleted. Suffices to say that it was a system that was designed to aid in completed combustion during deceleration...more of an emissions thing. In a separate thread I was schooled as to how it operates and the advantages (modest) in deleting it. Best answer is...simplicity is why I decided to delete it. The system removed

What remains after removal that needs to be plugged

Of the three top row of holes, the center hole needs to be plugged as that is where the fuel is going to come from...the two side holes are attachment holes for the enrichment apparatus...so cosmetic. The tube projecting to the right of the mixture adjustment screw also needs to be plugged, and there are three of these per triple bank of the carbs. I will use these...

Tapping for the set screws and the results


Plugged and the lower deleted with JB Weld. Clean.

My local hardware source did not have a fine thread set screw for the solenoid...so it will act as it's own plug and I plugged the vacuum tube with JB weld also. Interesting as the schematic blow-up in the Haynes manuals (I know, I know) for the zeniths shows these vacuum tubes coming from above the solenoid as fuel lines. This threw me for a loop when I rebuilt the zeniths, and I wanted to understand this auxiliary circuit better before I simply deleted it

[speedo]

My pump is mounted on top of the left rear swaybar mount welded to the longitudinal as it heads up under the T-bar to the engine compartment. It sits in a tray which is shock mounted to the swaybar mount. care must be taken when removing the tray as an over zealous hand and ratchet will easily twist the stud out of the rubber bushing that holds it in the tray. Shown is the fresh pump and refurbished tray next to a basic tray

The hardware and new braided 6mm and 8mm fuel line

We need to use the correct German hose clamps. The cheap US clamps don't work well when new...much less used and over-torqued. Working to get the lines connected

And done

As this was a conversion...not a full restoration, I did what need to be done. Looking at the heater valves...I could not in good conscience bolt up new ducting to the brand new SSIs with valves that looked like crap...so they came out (no sheared studs) ...yay

And will get sandblasted and rebuilt and painted. Easier to do it no before the engine is installed. Yeah, while this area is a bit dirty, fresh valves would be nice. Hey, it is the underside of the car. Road grit, mud and dirt, and maybe some oil. Freshen it up now...it will be dirty soon enough.

When the wind dies down up here...50 mph gusting to 80, we will open the garage doors a bit and do some sandblasting. Till then...wishful thinking and prep.

Speedo

[speedo]

Waiting for a supply shipment...heater ducts and 3 inch clamps, fuel line clamps, fog light cover gaskets. Some stuff I want to get done before the engine goes in. Easier to do with it out vs in. Snow gave UPS the day off apparently. And up here, if it doesn't come Friday, you won't see it till Monday
Just make a list of the "other" stuff that needs to get done...and hammer it out.
Like these buggers. Time to clean them up... sand bath time

Much better

First pass

Assembled and ready for install

Much better


Nobody will know how nice these look...at least for a little while. Something in the bottom left corner of the previous picture has been bugging me for a while.
The white thing that looks like a shock. A shock imposter
Someone installed a pair of KYB shocks on the car. I can fix that

What were they thinking...all better now.
Anybody for "cat tv"? Hey, it's what we do in the mountains on snow days Lucky for them there is a double pane glass window in between.

[merbesfield]

Lars, how does the damper shaft thingy come out of the heater valves? I have never looked at one. In the pics above it is just magically apart. Looking forward to seeing u next week. Mark

[speedo]

Originally Posted by merbesfield

Lars, how does the damper shaft thingy come out of the heater valves? I have never looked at one. In the pics above it is just magically apart. Looking forward to seeing u next week. Mark

Pretty technical terms for a Sunday morning
Once the spring is removed, flip the valve back upright. There will be 40+ years of crud and or rust on the thing...so disassembly will not be obvious. You need a small flathead to pry the tiny speednut up off of the shaft. It is oversprung, so be carefull not to work it too hard and break it. It will come off. Do the same for the other valve, and set the washers aside. With the same small screwdriver, work the round nylon seal up out of the body of the valve. It is also 40 years old...so gentle. Once the seal is free of the shaft, the shaft is now only held in place by the gate/flap that opens and closes inside the valve. The shaft should slide out of the flap. Take a marker and mark the flap with respect to orientation (ie. left back) so that you will know how to reassemble...it is not obvious. With the shaft removed, you can now address the other side. There is another nylon seal that is at the bottom of the shaft that doesn't need to be removed...just be careful when you sandblast the shaft, not to sandblast the nylon to the point where it is unuseable.
Here are some more pics that might help. See you in a few days Mark ...bring your Carharts


In the top left corner of this pic you can see the little bits and pieces, the washer/speed nut and the nylon seals.


And once cleaned, primed and painted, just like Haynes says...assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly.

[Kidasters]

Originally Posted by speedo

just like Haynes says...assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly.

That is the most hated phrase in the whole book. Right behind "remove 'x'" - when X is the part in question and you have no idea where to begin.

That phrase is like the pretty girl in High School that said "I just want to be friends".

[merbesfield]

After working til 12:30am last night hand sanding Fuchs that's about all I had left of any brain cells. DIY Fuchs is a sucky job. Pays about a nickel per hour, if that.

[Jerry Garwick]

Lars

I was just refered to this thread from a fellow on the Early 911S Registry. I'mm in the middle of a restoration on a 1967S 911 Targa that had been converted to a hard window. No bars for the SWT reconversion. On page two of you Pelican site you said that you had made an extra set of bars. I do have the handles, but need the bars, etc. Any luck on you still having the extra bars?

Jerry Garwick
Prather, CA

[speedo]

Gerry,
Sorry. I borrowed a set of bows from a local gent restoring his 67 S softie and I reversed engineered my bows. I had planned to make an extra set but given the PIA associated with making one set...I retired from that idea. There is a guy up in Canada (Yves) making soft window parts. Search for him on the ESR and see if he has made some bows. Sooo much easier to buy them, than to make them.
I will have an extra set of handles available when I am done...but it looks like you have that covered. Do you still have the correct targa headliner with the cutouts for the handles? That was another obstacle that I didn't anticipate, or enjoy. Oh yeah, then there was the search for the targa bar base trim...hope you got that with the car.
If I can help, PM me. My mistakes are your gain

[merbesfield]

Here less than 24 hours and certain family members are driving me crazy. I might have to come to you shop two or three honihn just to stay awake

[Jerry Garwick]

Thanks for the fast reply, Lars. The Targa base trim? Ha...of course not. I do have the correct top headliners, etc. The car was quite a mess when I got it. It had been sitting in the Arizona desert for quite some time. Folks who were at the LA Lit meet swap will remember the "black" targa for sale. That's the one. No engine or transmission, and about an inch of Emron paint. It had been "restored" in 1990. I know the date because it is printed on the newspaper that the guy had used to plug up the rust holes before foaming it with insulation foam and bondo. I have removed about three editions of the Tuson times form that year. The rear sway bar is gone, the front struts are different, and one of the rear trailling arms had apparently replaced - no round bolt for the sway bar attachment on it. But it is a real 1967 911S Targa SWT and worth the restoration. Thankfully I have a rotisserie and after media blasting and welding most of the holes on the top side, I now have it upside down to begin work on the belly. I had a similar Targa in my previously life - a 1968 912 - which I had done a lot of work on, so am familiar with the model and it's issues. I located a 2.2 S engine and webers, plus a proper tranny. It's only time and money. ARRRGHHHH!!!

[haycait911]

hey Lars. how about a pic of you next to your pride and joy. all we've seen so far is a fairly un-appealing left thumb.

[speedo]

So there is a compromise here in the making....

Right side photographs much better...me thinks
Big weekend coming up for the car. Long punch list in between turkey, turkey sandwiches, turkey soup and ah yes... the infamous turkey tapioca. A mountain favorite.


If I am lucky and the weather permits, we'll get the fuchs mounted (that will be an Al Reed treat), roll him (remember she became "Sorgenkind") down the concrete apron and blast the year of dust off of him. It has been just a year since I picked the car up/got fleeced by my painter. Damn, this beast is taking way to long.

Speedo

[speedo]

Supposed to be the low temp ducts that help move the air from inside the shroud through the ducts and down to the heat exchangers. These look like they are turned inside out...


Originals have a wire spun inside or sandwiched, between a thick foil on the inside and literally paper on the outside. I have some used tubes that I need to check out. I am not inclined to install the pink new tubes. My 40 year old paper tubes are in decent shape. The ends are worn, but the tubes have held up. There is not much temperature on this end, so we'll trim and reinstall these. They have a bit of "patina" and the Porsche world seems to be in love with "patina" these days.


Without the rear license panel/valence, the height of the rear of the car needs to be less than is required for a normal engine drop and removal. And, I have the wheels in dollys which adds an additional 2 inches to the rear height and I don't need to worry about "burying" the front bumper into the concrete while trying to get the rear high enough...done that

If I had a lift (which requires minimum 10 ft ceilings) I wouldn't have to use my motorcycle jack and try to pre-determine "the angle of dangle". But I don't so I do

"Houston, preparing for re-entry". Not that I now have three 10 lb bags of shot to offset the "angle of dangle" on the motorcycle jack. I am a huge fan of trying to set things up for a reasonably simple one man project. Having company certainly helps, but at the end, it reduces the beer supply.

It was 60 degrees here in the mountains today and a long mountain ride was in order. I came back with a an hour to kill and as the install was already set up...I couldn't resist.
This is always somewhat enjoyable. If it goes smoothly, a one man re-install is a small mile-stone and a confidence builder. With "Sorg" I can use all the confidence builders I can get.

Piece of cake.

I'll finish up the wiring and plumbing tomorrow, swap the wheels and maybe wash the beast. If all goes well the rear license panel, bumpers and bumper over-riders are next on the list. The weather here is forgiving...almost December...gotta get outside, strike while the iron is hot.

[merbesfield]

Lars, you move fast. I guess I should have offered you a hand installing that engine, but the beer and conversation was too good. Had a great time meeting you and talking cars. Joe got my 66 started today so a thread is in order. What heat exchangers are you running on Sorg? New or old SSI's?

[speedo]

I knew that John was looking to sell SSI and I picked up some MFI heat exchangers from him before he sold to Dansk. I always bought MFI HEs as they work for both MFI and carbs. So the set on the targa are MFI SSIs with the warm up duct capped off. The prices on these jumped...so I am glad I went down this path. I don't always make good decisions....especially as it relates to painters. So maybe I am offsetting my bad decisions with an appropriate number of good decisions

[merbesfield]

I am fortunate that my 73 had them (SSI's) on it when I got her, but the 66's current HE are in bad disrepair so I will have to make some decisions soon. I guess I could always break out the welder for now.

[haycait911]

Lars, what part number was on those white hoses? I need to order a bunch of heater hoses and I sure don't want those in my engine compartment.

[speedo]

Originally Posted by haycait911

Lars, what part number was on those white hoses? I need to order a bunch of heater hoses and I sure don't want those in my engine compartment.

Don,
The part number starts with MK 911...so I must have ordered it from Mary Kay? Yeah that's it...I had a choice of orange, black or blush. What was I thinking?
It would have been an awkward offset to the Gemini Blue. They totally would have clashed. Never again.

[speedo]

The floor jack is supporting the front of the trannie so that the opening in the tunnel doesn't take all the weight. Great way to deform the opening so that the rubber shift bellows doesn't ever want to fit. The studs for the trannie support were the wrong size, and now that the trannie is bolted to the engine, and the engine is bolted to the car...I need to be careful in replacing the studs so that I don't end up with a snafu. Nuts don't want to go on, so I gently chase the threads

Nuts went on fine...doubled up and the studs came out easily. New shorter studs installed and front of trannie is now supported by the cradle. Finished up all the underneath "stuff". Ducting from heat exchangers to the refreshed valves, tach connecteted, back up light wiring, hot power to the starter, and the oil line that needs to clear both the right rear shock and the heat exchanger.

Can't wait to get rid of these

So the rear bumpers are ready to install, but I remembered that I still have work to do before I can install them. First up is the rear deco trim. My aluminum is solid, but needs to be elbow-greased. Both sides are moderately pitted. Hey the front deco was a lot bigger...this should be easier, right?


Basic procedure...
file down the gouges
sand down the file marks with 120
sand down the 120 marks with 180
sand down the 180 marks with 240
rinse and repeat...hey it works.

Rubber is good, so it gets reinstalled but we will go with new outside beading. Body shops (hack) tend to mask around stuff like this when re-shooting so the old beading is not only stiff/brittle, but also suffers from overspray. Reassemble time...I get to use my new fabbed deco studs