911 Ignition switch elec. portion options

ourv12 · 08-09-2010, 12:07 PM

Seems there are a few different manufactures of the 911 ignition switch (electric portion). Some as low as $30 and up to $90. Any advice about the quality of these low priced units? If they are just as reliable I'll go with the savings.

Oh Haha · 08-09-2010, 03:52 PM

Pelican shows this as the correct part for your 911 > 964-613-012-00-M100

I would avoid a low priced one as it may not be a quality part.

spuggy · 08-09-2010, 05:35 PM

The later (964 part #) ignition switch has a lock-out that prevents you going from Run->Start except the very first time. So if you stall the motor, you need to turn off completely before you can hit the Start position again. I prefer the older behavior.

I had a Honda 750 once where the ignition switch malfunctioned. I turned it on, nothing. I turned it off, and the wiring harness started smoking as I stood there and watched it...

I would only buy the genuine part, myself, whether it was the 911 or 964 part #. Could cost you a lot more than the $60 you might save....

BBShriver · 04-11-2011, 06:18 PM

Does the part number mentioned include keys, or how does it work?

ossiblue · 04-12-2011, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBShriver

Does the part number mentioned include keys, or how does it work?

The part discussed is separate from the mechanical locking mechanism and it attaches to the back of the mechanical part of the ignition lock with two small screws. It is the part that usually fails in the ignition switch but is relatively inexpensive to replace.

yelcab1 · 04-12-2011, 08:05 AM

given the contortion acts and special little screwdriver needed to get this job done, I would only do it once with Porsche genuine part. It is not an arm and a leg. Just a small finger.

RSTarga · 04-12-2011, 08:50 AM

I think there are two types of switch, one cast housing and one stamped housing. The cast housing switch is the one to get.

BBShriver · 04-12-2011, 10:12 AM

Ok. I'm having an intermittent issue where my starter doesn't even try, click, anything, but all other electronics are working when the key is in the "on" position. Based on a variety of input I got here, I'm going ahead and replacing the starter with the hi-torque version from Pelican (figure my ~40 year old starter is about ready to be replaced even if it's not the root cause) and the other common problem seemed to be the "start" position on the switch. I'm thinking for $90 it might be worth replacing as a preventive maintenance item also.

Pelican also has a "hot start relay" kit for $23, has anyone experimented with that?

cmcfaul · cmcfaul's Garage

I just went through this three times. The aftermarket switches are junk. Installed one and could not get it to work. Installed a second and it worked for a month. Spent a little more for the OEM version and no problems.

These are a PITA to install. A real back breaker getting the little screws in there behind the dash. Please do yourself a favor and buy the OEM version. Otherwise I told you so ;-)

Chris
73 911 E

RSTarga · 04-12-2011, 02:44 PM

Due to the major headache this is I just replaced my whole ignition assembly. I had the new one rekeyed to use my old keys. I'm glad I did because it turned out that the key portion is what was failing not the electrical part. It took me the whole weekend but it was worth it and I tidied up the wiring underneath and put new bulbs in the fan switch.