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Registered
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Got engine rebuild estimates from EBS (3.0L to 3.4L)
I posted this in the hotrodding thread...but just so people who are interested in numbers don't miss them...
1982 3.0L SC 200K (@ time of rebuild) 3.2L crank + 3.2L con rods ($1600) 98mm p&c 9.5:1 (EBS $2600) -deep pocket -CIS pistons 98mm p&c 9.7:1 (Andial $3080) -deep pocket -CIS (am opting for the deep pockets even though I am going to initially run CIS because I can alway upgrade later) 964 grind cams if CIS ($350) RS cams or other hot cams if MFI or carbs Race valve springs ($345) Ti retainers ($200) General rebuild kit ($600-700) valve grind (5 or 3 angle) ($485) Port smoothing (not polishing) (part of $485 above) new valves ($300) crank magnaflux/x-ray ($100) engine oil pump clean ($65) oil pump replaces/rebuilt ($500 I never heard about this one...to those who rebuilt is this a necessary step??) head studs replaced ($425) con rod nuts and bolts ($210) 3.4L 9.5:1 or 9.7:1 CIS 964 cams NO double plugging or high compression should be a pretty sick motor without labor (DIY) parts and machining are around 7K then minus if you sell your SC crank ~800-1000 if your p&c are reusable get 400-500 for them (I am guessing) hopefully get you down to around 5500 motor should be putting out 230-240+ and a lightened SC should weigh about 2500 with a driver...that is not too bad of a hp/weight ratio also the 3.4L will have nice torque down the road if carb and hot cams are added maybe add about 10-20hp more... this is my plan...I may go with this 3.4L or do just the 98mm p&c's not sure yet...if I can offset the cost of new crank I will definatley go for 3.4L The engine guys are petty nice but you generally have one chance to pick their brains...unless you have your credit card out ready to buy they are not too thrilled to answer questions over and over but from both andial and EBS I have gotten the impression to go for 3.4L if you can 3.2 at the least I thought of going for a 3.6L implant...but from peoples experiences the 3.6L is GOBS of power and amazing torque...buit I think it lack in that old rustic peaky engine of the earlier simpler engines... that is why I am planning on going this route...keep my crank case...and get a vicious engine...that is loud and smelly... Any ideas experiences opinions blah blah blah??? |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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I have been treated like gold by EBS.
I have nothing but the highest praise for their services. I got a set of reconditioned 9.3:1 KS. P/C from 'em for $900. Had them completely rework my cyl. heads, and test and clean my engine mounted oil cooler. Email Jon if you have any questions. He was always super cool with me and never failed to get me the info I needed.
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-- Chief Architect and Mastermind, SCWDP |
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Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 13,333
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![]() Quote:
The above statement can pretty much stand on its own, I think. But if you put in lighter connecting rods and upgraded valve springs and retainers, you can rev the 3.6 north of 7200. And you'd be adding a lightweight flywheel to the mix in any case, for even quicker response. And then, I guess, if you still need the engine to smell like an SC, you could spill some Mobile One on the exhaust. ![]() Seriously, what you're building sounds awesome. (But for plain old prformance car torque, there's still no substiitute...)
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Jack Olsen 1972 911 My new video about my garage. • A video from German TV about my 911 Last edited by Jack Olsen; 01-23-2002 at 01:37 AM.. |
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Irrationally exuberant
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If you are building this yourself Trust no one, measure everything yourself. In the case of EBS JE pistons, at least measure the compression ratio. Based on just the three I know about, the CR of EBS JE pistons tends to run higher than stated.
These are the measurements from mine or my friends engines, stated CR (actual): 10.5 (11.5), 98mm 3.4L 9.5 (9.75), 95mm 3.0L 9.5 (10.2) ? 2.8L -Chris |
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Registered
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Anyone have expreience with having to change out the oil pump?
I would think a rebuild with some new parts would be pleanty...if not doing nothing and just changing seals any suggestions on the p&c? I have heard of many types with different CR... I am going to try to steer clear of double plugging...the whole 964 dizzy adaptation sound too hard and expensive...I have heard of other alternatives...like EFI ??? Oh and does anyone know what the emissions on this will be? I am assuming with my crossover pipe and my cat in place there should not be a problem...oh and my CIS system? after inspections I plan to switch over to the SSI and my dual out dansk... MJ |
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Registered
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leland you are right jon is VERY prompt...
the Andial people are a little more reluctant... rennsport systems is also very good at responding... MJ |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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Sounds like a fun motor, but you have to remember, for about $7K, you can get a 3.2 Motor with about 35,000 miles on it. 230 HP and the motronic system which is really the way to go.
Sell your core 3.0L for about $2500 and you're down under $5K. Of course, that's not as much fun! -Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Registered
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FUN
that is the key word...I think there is the feeling of having a motor behind you that you build with your bear hands...like "my grandfather built this house"-kinda feeling plus I better get cracking if I am gonna be on the elite engine rebuld book editiing committee!!! haha MOST importantly what would Leland say to the designer of the SCWDP icon defect by getting one of the bourgeois 911 engines in my humble SC... |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 4,403
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I agree with you Mark. Go with the 3.4 hot rod motor!
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Denver, CO, USA
Posts: 215
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Or check this out. Sell your 3.0 for $2500 and buy a 130,000 mile 3.2L engine for $5000, then rebuild that. You get the crank and rods plus you get motronic and the much better flowing 3.2L heads.
I am working on a 2.8L RSR motor out of a 3.0 case with 3.2L heads. The 3.2L heads flow about the same as RSR heads out of the box with smaller ports. This involves some custom pistons and cylinders but I think it will be stronger and cost about the same as a 2.8 from a 2.0 aluminum case. If you were going to build a high revin race motor I would go with the 3.3L on the 3.0 case, but for s treet motor you are probably better of with the bigger stroke. PS I have such a 3.2L available and a 1990 49,000 mile 3.6 for $7500, trades considered. Dave DART Auto |
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