How to Diagnos a mechanically DEAD 3.2 Distributor, sorry only fix is to Buy Another

[BURN-BROS]

I offer a rebuild service for distributors as well.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by gtc

I don't see how even a degree or three of misalignment would give you trouble. It's the motronic doing the timing, right? I thought the mechanical advance mechanism simply got the rotor roughly lined up with the correct terminal inside the cap every time the coil fired.

This is what I thought on a 3.2 and later Carreras.

This is totally, anecdotal and only my personal experience but when I tested my dizzy after my attempts of a DIY rebuild, she did run quiet and normal until I took her up to 80 MPH, then the buzzing started however she did not skip or struggle in anyway.

But still better safe then sorry, I also purchased a known good one for $150. I tested about four of them in a bin by spinning them and looking for smoothness with a bit of resistance. I learned if it spins too FREELY without any resistance, that is signs of a soon to be Bad Dizzy.

Wow, his prices have not changed in 3 years that is OLD SCHOOL FOR Yeah.

Jim

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

I offer a rebuild service for distributors as well.

Do you also custom make the internal bushings for the 3.2 Distributors?

Jim

[BURN-BROS]

I do, as well as the internal seal if necessary. It is rare that bushings are out of spec if proper lubrication is maintained.

The failure process is this;

1. lack of oil to the upper fiber shim quickly causes it's failure. Excessive endplay is the warning sign that a service is necessary but there is a good chance that the bushings are still within spec.
2. If the distributor is left in this state the upper bearing rate of failure is quite rapid. I normally see this failure on 3.0liter SC distributors and all have had evidence of water damage which I assume is from washing the engine but could be contributedto other events.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

The failure process is this;

1. lack of oil to the upper fiber shim quickly causes it's failure.

Thank Sir Aaron

Barry H, stated those shims are NLA ( he called it Vycon/Vyton or something like that ).

Please forgive me but How does one oil it? In the Car or Remove Lube and Replace?

May I also ask how you feel about the position of the sprocket, there is only two ways it can go on the end of the shaft. 0 degrees 180 degrees from initial removal, No?

[BURN-BROS]

Other than the 356/912 distributors there is no alignment problem.

As far as lubing, I would do it out of the car and figure out a way to get oil to the upper shim.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

Other than the 356/912 distributors there is no alignment problem.

As far as lubing, I would do it out of the car and figure out a way to get oil to the upper shim.

Intriguing.

Maybe an oil bath then drip dry wipe access off . I do not want dismantle ever again, I will leave it to your shop

Thank you again sir!

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

I do, as well as the internal seal if necessary. It is rare that bushings are out of spec if proper lubrication is maintained.

The failure process is this;

1. lack of oil to the upper fiber shim quickly causes it's failure. Excessive endplay is the warning sign that a service is necessary but there is a good chance that the bushings are still within spec.
2. If the distributor is left in this state the upper bearing rate of failure is quite rapid. I normally see this failure on 3.0liter SC distributors and all have had evidence of water damage which I assume is from washing the engine but could be contributedto other events.

That totally concides with my experience. From making noise, the failure was about 50-60 miles. That's why the only thing you can really do is to check the end play annually or more for older distributors. The failure can create a fire, or take the catalytic converter.

I think fastening that little gear is critical. If it falls off, you might be looking for a new block.

[BURN-BROS]

Originally Posted by rusnak

I think fastening that little gear is critical. If it falls off, you might be looking for a new block.

Agreed, I am a bit concerned by roll pins walking out.

[DRACO A5OG]

Great another reason not to use my spare

[HFR_Racer]

Have you ever seen a properly installed roll pin walk out on one of these? I've got a dizzy that the main shaft and gear were machined out to 3/16" and a double roll pin was installed. I've been running this with no issue thus far.

[DRACO A5OG]

McMaster-Carr does have the steel TAPER PINs in Metric sizes as well.

[HFR_Racer]

I'm sorry, but you are way off base here. The factory pin is NOT what your calling a TAPERED pin which is seen in McMaster Carr. The factory pin is a 4mm straight bodied pin with one-(1) end already mushroomed for the 4.5mm hole in the hardened steel gear.

[BURN-BROS]

Originally Posted by HFR_Racer

Have you ever seen a properly installed roll pin walk out on one of these? I've got a dizzy that the main shaft and gear were machined out to 3/16" and a double roll pin was installed. I've been running this with no issue thus far.

Honestly no. To be fair, there are plenty of other distributors that utilize rollpins. Bosch however was not one of them. Personally I would not want to be the guy who installed one for a customer that walked out.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

Honestly no. To be fair, there are plenty of other distributors that utilize rollpins. Bosch however was not one of them. Personally I would not want to be the guy who installed one for a customer that walked out.

Better Safe then Sorry

Do you have a website?

[BURN-BROS]

Sorry, no website yet...it's on the to do list! Give me a call if you have any questions.

[DRACO A5OG]

Roger That, maybe I will stop by when I'm up there showing properties and bring my back up dizzy.

[BURN-BROS]

Let me know,

We had the Rothmans 962C at the shop a couple of weeks ago...maybe you'll get lucky and time your visit right.