yup - Dave should start a gallery with links to his various build posts...

I love watching the build. Keep it up Bryan! Amazing work and commitment. I can't imagine a more worthy owner of the car.

Todd - Drago's little brother

Bryan.
Haven't checked out you machine in a while......NICE! It's so cool that you took this on....Going to be a long road, but you will really have something GREAT when your done, Brandon talk you into a 3.8 yet? lol
Kelly

Hey Todd! Nice to hear from you. Yes I am trying to do work as fast as I can but do it right. Thanks for the kind words. Keep checking back. I am so close to sealing up the front half of the car and getting it back on its wheels.

Kelly! No, Brandon has NOT talked me into a 3.8...but don't think he has not tried! I have the $$$ governor on which automatically makes decisions for me :D ....and how is your project? Is there even a thread for that thing?

Day 108 || Smugglers Blues + Removing Shutz
24Oct2011
the smugglers box after removing/chipping out gobs of seam sealer, is finally bright and shiny. I was advised not to go in there...BUT now I know why the passenger side floor pan rusted out years ago. The smugglers box had holes draining/seeping into the passenger compartment. I will be welding all of that up as soon as I see a shiny front clip.

I taped off the remaining wire and accessories in front of the firewall and I am proceeding with fully stripping all the paint so I can finish what welding remains and then finally epoxy seal this sucker.

Here is the visual story...

Smugglers box before.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-o...-33-40_130.jpg

Smugglers box after.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a...-18-00_486.jpg

Steering rack dropped..actually in pretty good condition. I will be refurb'ing with Turbo Tie Rods.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...-40-44_328.jpg

Popping the master cylinder out
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...-45-07_759.jpg

This surface rust made me paranoid...so everything must come out!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...-49-30_986.jpg

Real rusty pedal assembly. 'Leichtbauers' posts have me wondering how to lighten this chunk up and still keep it safe.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...-55-38_510.jpg

Last weekend I spent the entire time laying on a creeper with a grinder, face shield and mask on. Pretty nasty...but once the metal was bare I zinc chromated all the exposed metal to inhibit flash rust and provide an excellent surface to bond the epoxy primer to. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V...-22-10_234.jpg

It is hard to see but note the large hole rusted out near the circular opening to the smugglers box. This was also letting moisture into the 'tunnel'
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...-22-43_484.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...-22-31_474.jpg

Make sure to rebush that cluster with polybronze bushings. Looking good!

cont-

Pretty solid sheet metal which is pleasing. Other than the rotted out pans, the car is fairly solid with only minor welding needed here and there.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...-58-27_539.jpg

Starting the fender well grind
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G...-16-02_395.jpg

Finally!! The other side is up next and a few more nooks an crannies!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...-47-33_913.jpg

Wow, that is awesome!

Hi Bryan,

The car is coming along very well, great workmanship and finish. I saw the picture of the underside of the footwell on your car, it is a great reference picture for my car. At the rate you are going you will be finished long before mine. Great period colour. Are you going with a retro interior?

regards
Chris

Wow, you keep to task quite well. Good on you for having-'cahones to cut 'ze cajas' !!!

Hey you missed some undercoating on the underside of the floor.

Yes, laying on your back grinding away this PVC undercoating sucks. Been there more than once. The results are worth it though. Don't be surprised if you find surface rust under the undercoating. rust never stops.

Chris, The color is supposed to be Pastel blue which is a little darker than the 'baby blue' overspray color. Yes I am going to keep the color stock and eventually paint the entire car after I get it functionally where I want it. The interior is going to be somewhere between 'R' and privateer racer with my own touches. b/c it will be a street car it will have carpet...I think? I will cross that bridge later. At this point I want to bolt a seat in it and have it move under its own power.

...I have 'cahones' to cut the boxes? =) Meine Espanol is nicht so gut ;)

...ha ha ha...very funny :p Yes, the undercoating is great at protecting...but also very good at holding in moisture :/ That is why I stripped the area underneath where the steering rack/brake master are at...turns out it does need repair....so I am glad that I am going there now...instead of later. btw- just checked out your GRM thread...seized motor! That really sucks!!!

Wow - wow - wow
 

Again Bryan, you are very brave... God Bless You... Great Job...

I just wanted to ask how are you planning to remove rust from inside of circled areas?

that was always a question to me...

Thank you.
-Youri
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319573736.jpg

Youri, that is a good question. I don't think I have an answer for you. I think you could cut a window out there and then weld it back when you are finished with rust removal and coating the inside. I would not do it with the suspension under load to minimize warp? Just a guess.

So far I don't see any signs of rot on the fender well side or the trunk side. I am planning on spraying LPS Procyon or a similar rust inhibitor in all the cavities once finished. Hopefully that will stop any corrosion in areas where there is surface rust. The logic is that if I spray LPS then it will block out moisture and limit the steels exposure to oxygen/salt etc. and significantly slow the oxidation process.

Bryan, nice job on the schutz removal. It's really nice to see shiny metal under the shutz. I'm currently attacking mine with an oscillating saw followed by a wire cup brush. Seems to be a bit quicker and less messy than grinder alone. Well, I don't know what wheel you have on your grinder--I'm using a cup brush. So the oscillating saw is faster than a cup brush. Looking at your photos, I'm not sure you need any more speed tips, though. You seem perfectly fast with just a grinder. :)

Von,

Do you have a pics to share?
Are you using this oscillating saw? (Sorry Bryan, I copied your pic)

Thank you.
-Y. SmileWavy

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...-39-58_669.jpg

Bryan,
I think John did it somehow ???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/545166-restoration-my-69-911-a-16.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6131826-post13.html

my 2c..
-Y.

Hmm, well I forgot about that photo posted near the beginning of the thread. So yea, I'm using basically the same tool, although I'm using the serrated blade. Personal preference on the blade choice I suppose. Bryan, have you managed to find a better way of schutz removal besides the tool above? I've only gotten my two front fender wells clean, so if there's a faster way to go about removing the schutz, I'd love to hear it.

As to photos, I misplaced my camera about 2 weeks ago, so I haven't updated my progress since then. Search for the word 'Homerian' for the thread, I don't know the thread offhand. Once I find my camera, I'll post the past few weeks updates in my thread. I've also misplaced my notebook that had rather extensive notes and bag numbers for my bagged parts. The camera and notes are together, I brought them into the house to update the rear suspension drop, then I don't know where I put them. Driving me crazy. :p

Von, I have not tried a serrated blade! I was afraid of 'cutting' or dinging the metal too much. Basically I am doing the same thing. I use the oscillating saw/tool if the shutz comes off easy but if the material is still attached and pliable, it can be a chore so I switch to using a grinder with a wire 'cup brush' to remove the bulk of the material and finish with a abrasive wheels for the drill and/or grinder. I will take a picture of my suite of tools when I get home.

Some others have talked about using a torch and a scraper and even chemical strips once the top layer of undercoating has been removed. But both of those seem nasty. (and now for a saftey tip :D) Either way, I always wear an organic vapor respirator, eye/ear protection and use a fan to push the smoke and dust away from my immediate work area....

Here is a link I was JUST looking at last night discussing this very subject!
under coating removal fastest method yet

Youri, I didn't see where john addressed that area...but he is right, don't plug the drain hole at the bottom! I am crossing my fingers and assuming that the cavities that high up did not see a lot of moisture or have issues (unless the car was submerged :eek: )

I don't think I have ever seen anyone ever address that area but that doesn't mean people have not done it....