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NO, I did not see where John pointing to it :-(
Here is Evan answered my question: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6332974-post48.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-autocross-track-racing/633095-new-911-track-toy-build-3.html#post6332974 Thank you. -Y.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif |
I love the way you templated up the drivers front clip/suspension pan attachment. I have the same issue and every time I go into the garage I just look at it then figure out something else to do. Thanks for posting this. I know what I'm going to do this weekend!
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I bought a cheap anvil from harbor freight and used the horn and flats on the anvil to beat into shape the rough shapes to about 80% and did a lot of test fitting re-working until I was satisfied and then would tack weld it to the first section and so on until I had the whole section finished. Also note that for some of the sharper inside corners I did use a piece of wood with a 1" "U" shape cut out ...or a ditch if you will and a round 1" ish bar as a form and hammered away forming the metal into the 'ditch'. My next step was to trim the cars unibody to fit the piece I made and then welded in place and ground the welds flat. Then you can hammer and dolly into final shape from there. It is very satisfying when you finish!! Good luck! ping me if you need any pointers or if something is not apparent in my process pics. Some of those shapes can be tricky! |
Day 122 || Rebuilding Smugglers box + The trunk almost stripped bare.
7Nov2011 The intersection at the firewall, smugglers box and the tunnel had rot so I am in the process of repairing it. This is a tricky one but I think I almost have it licked. Here are the progress pics to date. before https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...-59-11_892.jpg I removed the webasto heater port b/c there was rot down in the corner that I couldn't get to. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...-25-25_816.jpg from the inside... I have all ready welded in the floor at this junction https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...-26-21_340.jpg I couldn't help it...floor pans are getting stripped and inspected...so far lots of patchwork is needed but they are still structural https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...-25-01_217.jpg The front clip is almost totally stripped...just spot sandblasting needed https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...-24-12_936.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...-25-45_532.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...-25-38_184.jpg |
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Thats really incredible work, excellent job
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cricket...cricket...
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Hey Bryan, you and John doing Fantastic Job!!!
I've learned lot of good thinks from both your threads... I've just got Oscillating Tool from HF for $20 with coupon, I will look into the tackle the body work next... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif That how I feel when I am thinking about it... Anyway, I am sorry I did not want to hijack your thread, but I am very happy to run the 1st test drive of my car, you can see it here 1-ev.com - GO GREEN Blog!!!: Porsche 912 Electric Car Conversion http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif Following both yours and John's rebuilds with great interest. God Bless You ... Thank you. -Youri |
Love these threads. Great job so far!
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Day 129 || Weld-in Strut bar + Some Patching.
14Nov2011 Finally getting to the fun part! Weld-in RSR strut bar from TRE installed and aligned. (Note- I still have to trim the end of the strut bar itself once T's are fully welded up) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...-39-35_956.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...-39-49_188.jpg Here is some step by step that I took. The strut mounts needed to be ground to fit to insure alignment with the bar and to provide good fit for welding https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...-53-00_715.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...-52-51_513.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...0-52-24_75.jpg Webasto port removed (due to too much rust) and patched. Not the prettiest welds (hard to maneuver in there!) but the seams will be sealed and gooped with seam sealer so I think it is pretty enough. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...-40-19_506.jpg Passenger side firewall rust from the leaking smugglers box https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...7-24-44_79.jpg My new patch pattern transfer technique :) Heavy duty foil is used to tranfer the edges of the 'hole' and then cut out and traced around on the patch piece. Works slick so far! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...-45-01_806.jpg Piece welded up. The rest of the rust is superficial and will get converted and sealed. I probably should have welded in new floor pans but this is just to get on the road. I will reassess before painting the exterior down the road. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...-30-16_627.jpg Finally some fabrication process! I feel much closer to painting the trunk and exposed underbody now! |
Looking good! I am getting the itch to do some painting! Chop chop! ;) BTW, did you get a strut bar or just the supports? If not, I have a brand new one for you...
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This rust you can tackle with some chemicals, such as this one from HF Evapo-Rust™ Rust Remover 1 Quart Evapo-Rust Evapo-Rust It did remove rust from Brake Calipers, they were like NEW !! My 2c.. -Youri |
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I have tried muratic acid...but there are too many acidic fumes and I don't want the vapor to attack the interior parts left in the car (although it works very well). |
I always keep a bottle of Ospho on hand .
Ospho |
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More info- I picked up a gallon of Ospho from West Marine (marine supply store here in Seattle) for $32+tax. Ospho is a phosphate based metal rust converter which can be primed over with PPG DP epoxy primer (which I am have and will use to fully seal the steel before high build primer then paint). PPG has their own phosphate based rust/metal converter DX520 which is chemically similar to Ospho by all the threads I reviewed. I will be putting Ospho on some rust tonight to soak/dry on the car. I will report back the findings. |
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