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-   -   Project 69 (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/618798-project-69-a.html)

1-ev.com 10-26-2011 01:39 PM

NO, I did not see where John pointing to it :-(

Here is Evan answered my question:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6332974-post48.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-autocross-track-racing/633095-new-911-track-toy-build-3.html#post6332974

Thank you.
-Y.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

Eharrison 10-27-2011 08:43 PM

I love the way you templated up the drivers front clip/suspension pan attachment. I have the same issue and every time I go into the garage I just look at it then figure out something else to do. Thanks for posting this. I know what I'm going to do this weekend!

combatic 10-28-2011 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eharrison (Post 6335933)
I love the way you templated up the drivers front clip/suspension pan attachment. I have the same issue and every time I go into the garage I just look at it then figure out something else to do. Thanks for posting this. I know what I'm going to do this weekend!

Eharrison, I scratched my head for some time and hoped/waited/asked for that section of sheet metal to pop up so I could just weld it in. No such luck, as far as I can tell they just don't exist because of rust and rot on the unibody side of the chassis. I saw a post of cnielsen fabricating a ST tank section and he and/or his fabricator made a pattern off of a real ST tank to transfer to flat sheet metal so I copied the technique.

I bought a cheap anvil from harbor freight and used the horn and flats on the anvil to beat into shape the rough shapes to about 80% and did a lot of test fitting re-working until I was satisfied and then would tack weld it to the first section and so on until I had the whole section finished. Also note that for some of the sharper inside corners I did use a piece of wood with a 1" "U" shape cut out ...or a ditch if you will and a round 1" ish bar as a form and hammered away forming the metal into the 'ditch'. My next step was to trim the cars unibody to fit the piece I made and then welded in place and ground the welds flat. Then you can hammer and dolly into final shape from there. It is very satisfying when you finish!! Good luck! ping me if you need any pointers or if something is not apparent in my process pics. Some of those shapes can be tricky!

combatic 11-07-2011 11:56 PM

Day 122 || Rebuilding Smugglers box + The trunk almost stripped bare.
7Nov2011
The intersection at the firewall, smugglers box and the tunnel had rot so I am in the process of repairing it. This is a tricky one but I think I almost have it licked. Here are the progress pics to date.

before
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c...-59-11_892.jpg

I removed the webasto heater port b/c there was rot down in the corner that I couldn't get to.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...-25-25_816.jpg

from the inside... I have all ready welded in the floor at this junction
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...-26-21_340.jpg

I couldn't help it...floor pans are getting stripped and inspected...so far lots of patchwork is needed but they are still structural
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...-25-01_217.jpg

The front clip is almost totally stripped...just spot sandblasting needed
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...-24-12_936.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...-25-45_532.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...-25-38_184.jpg

Fishcop 11-08-2011 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by combatic (Post 6332791)
Youri, I didn't see where john addressed that area...but he is right, don't plug the drain hole at the bottom! I am crossing my fingers and assuming that the cavities that high up did not see a lot of moisture or have issues (unless the car was submerged :eek: )

I don't think I have ever seen anyone ever address that area but that doesn't mean people have not done it....

Hi guys, that area in my car was remarkably corrosion free. I just vacuumed it out and will apply cavity wax when I'm finished.

combatic 11-08-2011 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishcop (Post 6358539)
Hi guys, that area in my car was remarkably corrosion free. I just vacuumed it out and will apply cavity wax when I'm finished.

How did you 'vacuum' it out? :p There is only a tiny drain hole that I can see!

Fishcop 11-08-2011 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by combatic (Post 6359344)
How did you 'vacuum' it out? :p There is only a tiny drain hole that I can see!

I fed a reduced sized tube in through the opening at the top (forward for the suspension mounting point).

MichiganMat 11-08-2011 09:54 PM

Thats really incredible work, excellent job

kenikh 11-13-2011 03:07 PM

cricket...cricket...

Fishcop 11-13-2011 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenikh (Post 6368987)
cricket...cricket...

Do you play? :p

1-ev.com 11-13-2011 03:47 PM

Hey Bryan, you and John doing Fantastic Job!!!

I've learned lot of good thinks from both your threads...

I've just got Oscillating Tool from HF for $20 with coupon, I will look into the tackle the body work next... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif That how I feel when I am thinking about it...

Anyway, I am sorry I did not want to hijack your thread, but I am very happy to run the 1st test drive of my car, you can see it here 1-ev.com - GO GREEN Blog!!!: Porsche 912 Electric Car Conversion

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/beerchug.gif

Following both yours and John's rebuilds with great interest. God Bless You ...

Thank you.
-Youri

rennch 11-13-2011 03:51 PM

Love these threads. Great job so far!

kenikh 11-13-2011 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishcop (Post 6369039)
Do you play? :p

Only with Bryan's mind. :rolleyes:

combatic 11-14-2011 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenikh (Post 6368987)
cricket...cricket...

It is getting to cold for crickets. I think maybe I should have got the was oil furnace fixed first now. :rolleyes:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishcop (Post 6369039)
Do you play? :p

John, I don't know the first thing about cricket. My sheltered life in farm country I guess.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-ev.com (Post 6369056)
...I will look into the tackle the body work next... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif That how I feel when I am thinking about it...

Youri, congrats on your first run. Don't get too overwhelmed. Just do lots of little tasks. I have to...the boss keeps me balanced ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptyo (Post 6369058)
Love these threads. Great job so far!

Grazie...it is slowly getting to the fun part now...observe the next thread!!

combatic 11-14-2011 11:40 PM

Day 129 || Weld-in Strut bar + Some Patching.
14Nov2011
Finally getting to the fun part!

Weld-in RSR strut bar from TRE installed and aligned. (Note- I still have to trim the end of the strut bar itself once T's are fully welded up)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...-39-35_956.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...-39-49_188.jpg

Here is some step by step that I took. The strut mounts needed to be ground to fit to insure alignment with the bar and to provide good fit for welding
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...-53-00_715.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...-52-51_513.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...0-52-24_75.jpg

Webasto port removed (due to too much rust) and patched. Not the prettiest welds (hard to maneuver in there!) but the seams will be sealed and gooped with seam sealer so I think it is pretty enough.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...-40-19_506.jpg

Passenger side firewall rust from the leaking smugglers box
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-t...7-24-44_79.jpg

My new patch pattern transfer technique :) Heavy duty foil is used to tranfer the edges of the 'hole' and then cut out and traced around on the patch piece. Works slick so far!
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b...-45-01_806.jpg

Piece welded up. The rest of the rust is superficial and will get converted and sealed. I probably should have welded in new floor pans but this is just to get on the road. I will reassess before painting the exterior down the road.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...-30-16_627.jpg

Finally some fabrication process! I feel much closer to painting the trunk and exposed underbody now!

kenikh 11-15-2011 09:08 PM

Looking good! I am getting the itch to do some painting! Chop chop! ;) BTW, did you get a strut bar or just the supports? If not, I have a brand new one for you...

1-ev.com 11-16-2011 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by combatic (Post 6371652)
Day 129 || Weld-in Strut bar + Some Patching.
14Nov2011

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...-30-16_627.jpg

Finally some fabrication process! I feel much closer to painting the trunk and exposed underbody now!

Hey Bryan,

This rust you can tackle with some chemicals, such as this one from HF Evapo-Rust™ Rust Remover
1 Quart Evapo-Rust
Evapo-Rust

It did remove rust from Brake Calipers, they were like NEW !!

My 2c..
-Youri

combatic 11-16-2011 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenikh (Post 6373545)
did you get a strut bar...

Kenik, did you mean strut bar or sway bar? Yes the strut bar installed in the photos above...it custom drilled and welded to fit the position of the supports. Chris has set aside a set of F&R sways from the 75 he just parted so I think I am covered there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-ev.com (Post 6373938)
Hey Bryan,

This rust you can tackle with some chemicals, such as this one from HF Evapo-Rust™

Youri, the Evaporust works like magic, IF you can soak your parts. The floorpans have holes in them so I can't keep the liquid on there....and then there is the whole issue of cleaning the parts after the fact. (I can't hose it down with soap and water as the instruction state). I am going to do some spot sand blasting right before I am ready to seal up the floor pans. I have not decided if I am going to use POR-15 or shoot the floor pans with DPLF from PPG yet. The POR-15 will be easier to apply (no taping and masking).

I have tried muratic acid...but there are too many acidic fumes and I don't want the vapor to attack the interior parts left in the car (although it works very well).

Vrod 11-16-2011 07:08 PM

I always keep a bottle of Ospho on hand .
Ospho

combatic 11-17-2011 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vrod (Post 6375526)
I always keep a bottle of Ospho on hand .
Ospho

Thanks for the tip Vrod! Have you ever used Ospho under PPG DPLF epoxy primer? Por-15?

More info- I picked up a gallon of Ospho from West Marine (marine supply store here in Seattle) for $32+tax. Ospho is a phosphate based metal rust converter which can be primed over with PPG DP epoxy primer (which I am have and will use to fully seal the steel before high build primer then paint). PPG has their own phosphate based rust/metal converter DX520 which is chemically similar to Ospho by all the threads I reviewed.

I will be putting Ospho on some rust tonight to soak/dry on the car. I will report back the findings.


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