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I'm here to cause trouble
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 935
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Sway-a-Way Spring Plate installation/quality issues
I recently installed SAW spring plates in my '86, and now doing the same on an '88. There are some issues with the torsion tube bushing that SAW supplies, and I thought I'd share what I learned during both installations.
Basically the problem is this: the bushing diameter is too large (by about 7/100"), and it is too short, by about 1/4". First, I'll talk about the length of the bushing. Here is a picture of the tube with the stock bushing in place. You'll see that it protrudes from the hole about 1/4". ![]() Now, next is a picture of the SAW bushing in place. Note that the bushing is seated at the back of the tube against the stop, and it is practically flush with the chassis. ![]() Because of supply issues, I had to order my SAW spring plates from another reseller. That company was aware of the problem with the depth, and includes a couple of Weltmesiter bushing spacers in the kit. The spacer goes in first, followed by the bushing. In this next photo, you can see the spacer in place at the back of the tube, and now, the SAW bushing sticks out the proper amount (this allows correct alignment of the spring plate to the control arm, and keeps the spring plate from rubbing on the wheel well). Now the REALLY interesting thing is that the SAW kit shipped by Pelican does NOT include the the bushing spacers. When we called tech support, they seemed totally unaware of this being a problem. We also contacted SAW here in San Jose, and even they were totally unaware of any issues with their bushings. I sent a detailed email after talking to them on the phone, and have not received a reply. ![]() Now, the other issues with this bushing is that the diameter is 7/100" in diameter too large. It takes a LOT of force to cram it into the hole. As I understand it, this pinches the inside diameter of the bushing, decreasing that diameter. The spring plate that fits into that bushing will be in there a little too tight, and under stress, can easily bind. So the solution is to turn the bushing down on a lathe, just enough so it's a snug fit that you can push in by hand. There you have it.... JB
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'86 Carrera Cabriolet '73 911T Sporto (RIP) '90 Miata LeMons Contender! '71 Datsun 510 (RIP) '67 Fiat 124 Sedan (RIP) '72 Ford Pinto (RIP) '62 Plymouth Valiant '60 Ford Galaxy 500 (RIP) Last edited by jimbauman; 05-22-2010 at 08:33 AM.. |
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I found the real solution to be installing the Elephant Racing polybronze bushings especially made for the Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates.
Rod |
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I'm here to cause trouble
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 935
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No argument there at all! Budget did not allow it at this time however.... :-(
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'86 Carrera Cabriolet '73 911T Sporto (RIP) '90 Miata LeMons Contender! '71 Datsun 510 (RIP) '67 Fiat 124 Sedan (RIP) '72 Ford Pinto (RIP) '62 Plymouth Valiant '60 Ford Galaxy 500 (RIP) |
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Under the radar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fortuna, CA. On the Lost Coast near the Emerald Triangle
Posts: 7,129
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Good luck with the SAW bushings. I would not even attempt to use them. I had some a few years ago and could NOT stop them from squeaking.
I have had good luck with the poly carbon (black plastic) sold by Weltmeister and available from Performance Parts. (sorry Wayne) I have had these in my 911 for 15 years with no issues.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,249
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Maybe different year cars are different because the sway away bushings fit perfectly and installed easily in my '87 930.
I got them from performance products when they were on sale 3 .5 years ago and they came with the extra black plastic spacer bushing but I didn't need it, so I didn't install them. I greased them heavily with moly grease when installing and after 3 years no squeaking yet. Some people drill a hole, tap it, and install grease fittings in the cover plates. |
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I'm here to cause trouble
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 935
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Right - the instructions mentioned that "some" cars from '76 on would run into this problem. So far, on 2 Carreras (a 915 and a G50 version) both have needed the spacers... Turbo bodies must be different in that regard...
The '86 had older Weltmeister bushings and they squeaked like crazy... the '88 had stock rubber, and they also squeaked, but not so bad... JB JB
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'86 Carrera Cabriolet '73 911T Sporto (RIP) '90 Miata LeMons Contender! '71 Datsun 510 (RIP) '67 Fiat 124 Sedan (RIP) '72 Ford Pinto (RIP) '62 Plymouth Valiant '60 Ford Galaxy 500 (RIP) |
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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I installed mine years ago. I think I made my own shim to take up any play. To date I have never had any noise from them. I installed zirc fittings that feed from the bottom up and keep them greased once a season.
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wheaton, IL (Chicago 'burbs)
Posts: 3,141
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I've installed the SAW spring plates with their bushings on 3 different Carreras over the years and had to put the bushings in a lathe to get the outer diameter correct in every case. The most recent ones I got for my current '86 didn't come with the spacers but I had a pair in my parts box from a previous car so used those. Even after machining the OD for a correct fit, the inner diameter was so tight that the spring plates barely rotated in them. I ran those for half the track season in 2008 and promptly switched to Chuck's PolyBronze. Night and day difference.
I know you said they weren't in your budget, but when I considered what my time cost me trying to make the SAW crap work then have to pull it all apart to do it correctly with the ER parts, it would have been cheaper to just do the ER from the beginning. When I waste a day on the car, that's a day I've lost with my 8 yr old. Which is unfortunately why my car isn't even close to back together this summer.... she's only going to be 8 once and I'd rather spend my time with her right now.
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Ed '86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!) '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 Turbodiesel (yes they make one) '97 BMW 528i (the sensible car, bought new) '12 Vintage/Millenium 23' v-nose enclosed trailer |
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Probably better off running stock that has switched sides until your budget can handle it... Substandard parts in a 911 is never really a good thing...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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I also found that SAW's quality was fairly average in fact I adjusted the lateral position of the plate on the arm so that I was getting full spline contact instead of the miserable 12-14 mm when supplied. This req'd quite a bit of labour machining off the welds in the lathe and then rewelding in the correct position. I then ran the car for quite some but to my disappointment could not stop the bugger squeaking in the rear end. I had E.R. poly bronze bushes in the front end and they were as quiet as mouse so I bit the bullet and purchased a set of rear P/B's bushes for the rear from Craig at E.R. directly whilst on a trip to the US and have not looked back. They are terrific. The best that you can say about the SAW plates is that they are a good starting point. Oh! I also forgot to mention that I contacted the SAW factory with my concerns and the best that they could come up with was that they hadn't really had any problems, so see you later.
With my experience of fitment I can only assume that there are many cars out there on the road and racetrack that also have poor spline contact. The only thing that I can NOW think of that may have happened is that supply was the #5505's for the later 86 -89 cars instead of the #5501's for the pre '86 cars. I don't know whether or not this would have caused the distance problem and when I was talking to the Swayaway factory expert he did not mention that this could be the issue. Maybe one of the gurus out there might have an answer on this question. I posted at the time of installation and nobody suggested this could be the source of the problem, but in my quest for answers one other Pelicanite did have the same situation as myself and I think he also went to the same measures to correct. This answer is not for everyone though. The invoice at the time was definitely for the #5501's but maybe just maybe the later #5505's could have been in the packet. Too late to worry about it now but it would have saved a lot of work at the time if this was the cause of the problem. I could have swapped the parts over for the right ones. I could be barking up the wrong tree maybe the problem isn't associated and it is just crap quality afterall. Looking for you comments. I know it isn't as sexy a post as what colour is your car etc. that seems to attract about a billion views and comments but a fairly important one none the less . Let's here from you. Dave
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"When I was a kid I used to pray for a bike everyday but then I realized that God didn't work that way so I stole one and asked him for forgiveness" '85 Carrera Coupe Dk. Blue, '64 Thunderbird Brittany Blue '68 Lotus Elan S4 Coupe Red, '62 Daimler SP250 [Dart] BRG |
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I also found that SAW's quality was fairly average in fact I adjusted the lateral position of the plate on the arm so that I was getting full spline contact instead of the miserable 12-14 mm when supplied. This req'd quite a bit of labour machining off the welds in the lathe and then rewelding in the correct position. I then ran the car for quite some but to my disappointment could not stop the bugger squeaking in the rear end. I had E.R. poly bronze bushes in the front end and they were as quiet as mouse so I bit the bullet and purchased a set of rear P/B's bushes for the rear from Craig at E.R. directly whilst on a trip to the US and have not looked back. They are terrific. The best that you can say about the SAW plates is that they are a good starting point. Oh! I also forgot to mention that I contacted the SAW factory with my concerns and the best that they could come up with was that they hadn't really had any problems, so see you later.
With my experience of fitment I can only assume that there are many cars out there on the road and racetrack that also have poor spline contact. The only thing that I can NOW think of that may have happened is that supply was the #5505's for the later 86 -89 cars instead of the #5501's for the pre '86 cars. I don't know whether or not this would have caused the distance problem and when I was talking to the Swayaway factory expert he did not mention that this could be the issue. Maybe one of the gurus out there might have an answer on this question. I posted at the time of installation and nobody suggested this could be the source of the problem, but in my quest for answers one other Pelicanite did have the same situation as myself and I think he also went to the same measures to correct. This answer is not for everyone though. The invoice at the time was definitely for the #5501's but maybe just maybe the later #5505's could have been in the packet. Too late to worry about it now but it would have saved a lot of work at the time if this was the cause of the problem. I could have swapped the parts over for the right ones. I could be barking up the wrong tree maybe the problem isn't associated and it is just crap quality afterall. Looking for you comments. I know it isn't as sexy a post as what colour is your car etc. that seems to attract about a billion views and comments but a fairly important one none the less . Let's here from you. Dave
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"When I was a kid I used to pray for a bike everyday but then I realized that God didn't work that way so I stole one and asked him for forgiveness" '85 Carrera Coupe Dk. Blue, '64 Thunderbird Brittany Blue '68 Lotus Elan S4 Coupe Red, '62 Daimler SP250 [Dart] BRG |
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bump, anybody got any ideas on this?
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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As I posted earlier, I did the install on my 89 about 10+ years ago so my recollection is hazy. I believe the spacer problem is a G50 longer torsion bar issue. As posted earlier, there is a 1/4" gap that needs to be addressed. This was fixed by cutting an extra spacer and placing this in the housing bumping out the spacer. The longer bolt and spacers just replace the older torsion bar cover and they need the collars because the sway a way is flatter and requires the spacers to allow a socket head to get on them. Hope some of this helps.
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I would be talking with Chuck at Elephant.....he's the the suspension guy I go with....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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I know I'm a little slow... Just to clarify so only later cars with the G50 trans. should need the spacer that fits in the torsion tube? ie. it would be OK for earlier cars to have the bushing fit flush to the opening? Also, for the collar spacers for the bolts, if I hear you correctly the collars go on the outside of the spring plate cover to allow you more room to get a socket on the bolt heads? Is this correct? Sorry, just want to be clear. Sway-a-way should really include this stuff in the instructions if the set up is different than stock. Thanks.
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OK, so I gave the install a try this weekend. After I installed the bushing to the body I installed the spring plate arm. As I guessed, clearance to body is very little, maybe a few mm. I can move the spring plate by hand and it will contact the body. I am guessing this is incorrect. Can someone confirm with certantity? What should this clearance be?
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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Quote:
i can only confirm that my install aligns correctly and operates great Pic is stock spring plate with Welt black street bushings Pic is driver's side from front looking rear Clearance is appx 3/8" ![]()
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Thanks Ronin. Can anyone with Sway-a-way plates or complete stock set up post their clearance to body?
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Hello,
Trying to revive this. Dealing with an install on a 1988 911 and cannot figure out how to proceed. The sway away bushing is shorter than stock and the supplied bolt spacers will create a gap between the spring plate and inner bushing. If there is no gap, the plate is too close to the body of the car. Has anyone talked to sway away to understand their install process for the g50 cars? |
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