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bout to start the wiring. for the power connection, the manual connects the 3 fuses to the rearward side of the heater blower fuse (the non fused side, according to the instructions). I do plan on keeping the blower. is it still ok to connect the power to this spot or will the heater blower functioning interfere with the fuel delivery?
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I installed a new fuse panel with ATO fuses and took my power off the starter terminal for clean power and ran separate fuse for the wide band AF meter and the ECU
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got everything done - got it started. and it runs like crap :( really rough idle, and it stutters when i push on the gas... any ideas? also haven't gotten megatune to work on my computer yet - got a serial to USB cable and cant seem to figure it out? will keep trying.
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lots of help and ideas for the multitude of compatibility issues with laptops on the yahoo group I would try there
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got the laptop working - im continuing browsing the posts on the bitz yahoo group trying to figure this out. hope i can get it working by the weekend....
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Glad you got the connection working might try loading different maps from the bitz group and also reload the base map Tony supplied sometimes I have heard it can get scrambled in shipment.
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none of the maps work properly :( man. talk about frustrating... spend 20 some hours putting this together and have it not work.
edit: checked for vac. leaks thoroughly - carb cleaner on ANYTHING that has to do wit ha vacuum. all vac lines, all intake runners (tops and bottoms) all check out - absolutely zero fluctuation with the idle. do i have my dedicated vacuum hose hooked to the right spot? Yellow circle = vacuum line coming off left side of distributor(as if facing the rear of car) blue circle - where i have my dedicated line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator red circle - random hole in cold start valve - do i need to plug? http://i646.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1312425094 |
Poking in real quick here. I have a bitz kit, and am still working on installing it. But, I will pass on a little of what I have read.
The obvious thing is vacuum leaks. I am sure you have checked those out. :) The second is fuel pressure. If this is not solid, you will get weird results. Someone suggested in the yahoo group that it is a good idea to have a fuel pressure gauge installed while debugging. Also, a miswire could cause some weird problems, such as having the air temp and engine temp cross wired. Hope that helps! -- brett |
Is this the time to ask, does the Bitz kit get rid of the CIS air sensor system?
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dont have a fuel pressure gauge... but
double checked both the air temp sensor and the engine temp sensor, wired correctly and installed in the correct spots. davidbir: yes, the bitz kit gets rid of the CIS air sensor system, except that it needs the Auxillary Air regulator- aar - (for cold start ups) and i was told to run that back around to the large port on the lower left hand side of the cold start valve(in the pic). and on the inlet of the AAR i could put a small K&N filter, or as gsmith said was ok, to run it back to its original inlet on the intake boot. |
Re the AAR; I'd recommend replacing the AAR with a 924 heater valve&cable. Fits right in and works perfect. Old 911s had hand throttle and you could use one of those units (combined hand brake/cabin heat/hand throttle) or just use a universal choke wire from any speed shop as I did.
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 944-572-085-02-M53 |
I Don't think the AAR is the culprit (yet). it's definitely too warm for that to be affecting it as bad as it is running. I also noticed (i'll double check in the morning) that the Exhaust gas oxygen indicator in megatune was pegged at zero volts. isn't this supposed to be at 1 ish? maybe i have a faulty oxygen sensor? I know the wiring is correct - triple checked it with the diagram and the instructions from tony - and it was 90% wired already - i just needed to connect the harness to the sensor. the connector in between was already done.
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Hum. You might be able to get some help from the megasquirt guys. (DIYAUTOTUNE.com)
-- brett |
Milo it is time to contact Tony for support and work with him he is very good at working out issues with his system I would try to get him on the phone if possible so he can troubleshoot in real time or on yahoo chat. +100 on the fuel gauge and that is why I suggested a different FPR I see you have checked for vac leaks I would have bet that was the issue. Good luck and keep us informed the DIYautotune folks I dont think will be much help as this is a custom setup for the 911 and not a standard motherboard. This really is a rare event with his kit it usually runs really good out of the box most times in 3 years I think I have only heard of 1 other time and I am willing to bet it is something missed and I am not being mean I had the same issues myself. Does it change at all when you load any of the MSQ's? Will it run well enough to warm up to see if some of the issues go away when warm?
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mkay. - triple checked ALL electrical connections - everything is 100% there. I can't find any vacuum leaks unless im missing somewhere, I unplugged the o2 sensor and it was way worse - so its definitely working. I'll check the parts store for a fuel pressure gauge and install it per tony's instructions on the site.
only 2 msq's on the yahoo groups for a stock 3.0 i can download. his most recent base map and one titled "megasquirt June 18 2010". took it out and drove it. it ran actually fairly well above 3krpm - almost no hesitations in those ranges just a little rough. - can definitely feel more power though. :D under that 3k range, it bucks and is PITA to get going. i.e. from idle to 3k or so, if i push too hard on the gas i get some backfiring thru the intake. changed from tony's to the "megasquirt June 18 2010" file and it made it run slightly better 2500rpm +. slightly smoother but still bucks in low rpm. idle was really no different. - im posting this exact message on the bitz group. I'll try to get tony on the phone as well once again thanks everyone for the input. I'll definitely keep this updated. |
What O2 sensor are you using? If a narrow band I highly reccomend a wide band and definately what you are saying is part of the issue if not the issue a narrow band should go between approx .1 and 1 volt so if it is 0 volts and stays there then that would be my first talking point to Tony. A wide band is a good investment and will give you so much more ease of tuning in the long run.
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You are getting there if it is only below 2.5 k or so then this sounds like tuning, backfiring thru intake indicates lean I think I get this crap twisted sometimes I had to play with my warm up settings some because it sucked somewhat but I went from NA to a turbo you might try a 2.7 msq and then change the required fuel
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Be sure you refer Tony to this thread so he can look at your pics you have posted and read your comments
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I was checking out your posts on the yahoo group you are in good hands there they will get you pointed in the right direction +1 on the tuning ease expressed of the wide band O2 sensor good money spent.
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New development for those who wish to know - Tony informed me that I probably need to calibrate my fuel pressure regulator - the manual says this should already be done - but that part of the manual was from when tony still did the full kits! - - now that he's only doing partial kits, this doesn't come pre calibrated and must be done! He informed me he was going to update the manual so if anyone buys the kit after I did, hopefully you can download the updated manual for it.
With that knowledge, it is obvious that the fuel pressure can f*#^! stuff up real easy. perhaps this is the key to my rough as hell idle? getting a gauge tomorrow morning, and calibrating the little sob and hopefully my super rough idle will go away. the car really wants to work right - rough idle, turns out i had a couple of busted injector O rings, got em replaced. idle was still rough but the backfire thru the intake went away. so maybe the Fuel Pressure Regulator might be the "well if i fix this..." ticket to win. will update in the morning |
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