Started My First Engine Drop

[GaryR]

I just use a long bar with a handle shoved into my lug bolts to hold the wheel while she is on the lift, works great.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by schumicat

I think you will be less likely to strip the heads if you don't use a long extension on the CV bolts...

Not really if you are perfectly align. I lift the car to just above my waist line then I able to put a good pressure on the bit before torquing it.

[Christien]

Originally Posted by arbita1

I know that they are disconnected from the transmission. I was looking more for tips on technique. What's the easiest was to get them off?

I do it with the wheels off, from underneath the car, with a crowbar (or similar) in between two wheel studs to hold the axle still. Piece of cake.

Originally Posted by wichitaguy57

When I did my drop, we didn't so much as lower the engine from the maximum height, but raised the rear end while keeping the engine as low to the ground as possible.

What did you jack under, when raising the car, with the engine disconnected?

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Everything else is disconnected and I'm ready to drop engine and tranny, car is just sitting on my lift. Now I'm "patiently" waiting for the jack adapter to arrive "by Wednesday" according to tracking supplied by our host...

I could drop it onto my ATV/motorcycle lift, but I ordered the right tool so I'm gonna use it!

Not sure if it is the "right tool" in as much as it is "a tool". In my mind, the adapter on a floor jack takes a big back seat to using the ATV jack. The ATV jack is a lot more stable.

Originally Posted by Christien

I do it with the wheels off, from underneath the car, with a crowbar (or similar) in between two wheel studs to hold the axle still. Piece of cake.



What did you jack under, when raising the car, with the engine disconnected?

You lift the entire car, then lower the front to raise the rear. You still need approx 25-26" under the t-bars at the rear, so that the ass is ~39" AFF.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by efhughes3

Not sure if it is the "right tool" in as much as it is "a tool". In my mind, the adapter on a floor jack takes a big back seat to using the ATV jack. The ATV jack is a lot more stable.



You lift the entire car, then lower the front to raise the rear. You still need approx 25-26" under the t-bars at the rear, so that the ass is ~39" AFF.

Are the front wheels on the ground when you do this or is the front still on jack stands? I think my front spoiler would prevent me from having the wheels on the ground if I was to lift the rear up that high.

[Christien]

Ed, your process involves a lift, correct? I'm asking because I have my engine out currently, but my car on the ground (put the wheels back on). I had it up on jack stands, then lowered the engine out like I always do, but I didn't have one of the jack stands in properly and the car started to lean really badly (scary as hell, first time in hundreds of times lifting the car that's ever happened). I jammed some temporary jack wherever I could, slapped the wheels back on and lowered the car down. Problem is, now I have no idea how I'm going to get the car back up

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Are the front wheels on the ground when you do this or is the front still on jack stands? I think my front spoiler would prevent me from having the wheels on the ground if I was to lift the rear up that high.

Unless you have some custom splitter, you won't have a problem. Yes, the wheels are on the ground, and on my car never created an issue with a factory spoiler.

Originally Posted by Christien

Ed, your process involves a lift, correct? I'm asking because I have my engine out currently, but my car on the ground (put the wheels back on). I had it up on jack stands, then lowered the engine out like I always do, but I didn't have one of the jack stands in properly and the car started to lean really badly (scary as hell, first time in hundreds of times lifting the car that's ever happened). I jammed some temporary jack wherever I could, slapped the wheels back on and lowered the car down. Problem is, now I have no idea how I'm going to get the car back up

What I just described is done when you DON'T have a lift. You are on jackstands, and is the safest way to drop an engine, IMO. You are working with everything level, then when the motor is free and ready to drop, you slowly drop the front to raise the rear off the engine. This way you aren't way up in the air with the motor, especially if one uses a normal floor jack. I've done several drops this way. Nowadays, I use the lift.

I don't understand why you can't raise your car back up?

[Christien]

I usually lift the rear of the car by the engine, under the sump plate. That's the way I've always done it, and I'm not sure where else to lift from, if the engine's out.

[efhughes3]

You should have spots on each side for jack pads.

[timmy2]

[QUOTE=efhughes3;6248984]Not sure if it is the "right tool" in as much as it is "a tool". In my mind, the adapter on a floor jack takes a big back seat to using the ATV jack. The ATV jack is a lot more stable.



When "the Tool" arrives I will assess. If I feel the need I will fab something to make it work with the ATV/MC lift and have the best of both worlds. Stability and the ability to adjust the angle of the powertrain without shimming with wood blocks or other dangerous for pinch point methods. I've managed to work on 500KV electrical for 25 years without an injury. I'd hate to have something like a motor drop on me!

[DRACO A5OG]

Well, I did two drops in 2 weeks. ( don't ask :-( )

I purchased a 1500 lb Motorcycle Jack at HF, with a piece of 1"X12"X36". I dropped both Trans & Engine.

I raised her on to 6 Ton Jack Stands until wheels were off the ground.

Then placed the Motorcycle Jack with piece of Wood under the center point of the Engine and Trans, about a foot where I normally raise the car. Raised the engine until the engine mounts came up about an inch.

Disconnected/Removed as Bentley/101 described.

After initial separation, I raised the chassis at the wheels ( engage E Brake ) one side at a time, gradually for safety, until high enough for my heater blower to clear my rear valance.

Grabbed the engine mount cross member and polled back, Voila, Engine Out

INSTALL, I lowered the chassis to the engine, raised the engine about 6"s+/- and slipped right in.

All this by myself, took her for a spin today, could not take the silly grin off my face.

NOTE: Keep organized, use shoes boxes to keep thing in order or use sandwich bags. The first time I did not do this and kicked my pile of nuts/bolts, What a nightmare

Jim

PM me if you have any questions.

As far as the CV bolts, I removed the wheel and used a piece of 1.5"X 48" OD wooden dowl and jammed it on the wheel studs. Used the same dowl to rotate as I loosened each bolt.

Just make sure the allen tool is seated all the way in before wrenching on it, YOU DO NOT WANT strip it. It is easier to loosen from the top or side position, there is zero room trying to get to the bolts when they are in the lower (6 o'clock position )

I was lucky I only stripped on on 2nd install. I ordered 6 back ups and CV gaskets from our Host. If a pre 85.5 915 it is only 30 ft lb torque. Like you wheels, torque in a Star Fashion.

Hope this helps!

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

After initial separation, I raised the chassis at the wheels ( engage E Brake ) one side at a time, gradually for safety, until high enough for my heater blower to clear my rear valance.

Just curious, why did you lift at the wheels and not the rear jack pad location?


Picking up a 20" long 3/8" extension bar from Sears on the way home from work for the CV bolts. And also borrowing the special Pelican oil line wrench from a fellow Pelican who lives close by. I'll hopefully have the engine out soon.

[rick-l]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

If you have a second person it's a little easier. They can be in the car on & off the parking brake while you rotate the axle shafts and undo the cv bolts underneath the car. Also, don't forget to undo the shift coupler.

Why not just stick a screwdriver in the vents of the brake rotor to prevent it from turning?

[sabeo.m]

This is what my car looked like when I dropped my engine. I did have a little bit of a clearance problem. It worked out as soon as I removed the valence.

[RWebb]

This is what my car looked like when I dropped my engine. I did have a little bit of a problem.

[sabeo.m]

Anything else that goes wrong with your car seems minimal compared to this-dang! Hope no buddy was hurt.

This is what my car looked like when I dropped my engine. I did have a little bit of a problem.

[RWebb]

that was just a joke - also an admonition to be careful ---> note the too small fire extinguisher

[Christien]

Originally Posted by efhughes3

You should have spots on each side for jack pads.

I don't trust them - there's some rust in there, and I wouldn't feel comfortable sticking jack pads in there.

[koenig]

Nobody has mentioned removing the bumper. A few nuts and some electrical connections and the whole thing is off. Gives you many much-wanted inches of clearance. Here's my drop with nothing lifting the front, jack stands and wood lifting the rear torsion bar to about 25 inches. ATV jack lowering the engine.

[koenig]

Just realized you already have your bumper off. Good luck with the drop and be careful.