engine stand/yoke modifications?

[HawgRyder]

CCM911...I use a jack that has a 34" rise to it.
I picked it up at the local cheap tool place here in Vancouver...will look at it tomorrow to get the model number.
I built an aluminum plate that fits into the hole on the jack...so it distributes the weight to lift the engine safely.
Works like a charm...the engine has been out and in twice this way.
Bob

[wildcat077]

Dennis,

You have a PM ...

Cheers !
Phil

['78 SC]

Various ways of lifting the engine onto the stand here.

After a couple of rickety episodes with jacks and a stack of lumber, I wised up and got one of these.



Much safer for me, my helper and the engine.

[timmy2]

Drilled the yoke tube to lock with a pin in 4 positions. Drilled the end of pipe to install rotation and moving handle.
I'm happy with this HF Stand and E-Bay yoke.

[Baby]

That looks good. I picked up a HF stand and am going with the eBay yoke, as it's less spensive than the adapter. The pics of the motors are inspirational!

[wildcat077]

I picked up a yoke as well,it shipped today ...
Thank you Dennis for the pics and the feedback !!!

Cheers !
Phil

[joetiii]

I picked up the eBay yoke as well and have issues mounting it to the block. My exhaust is still attached and I run interference with the crossover pipe. My thought is to remove the flywheel first and slide in the engine holder. Any suggestions?

If that doesn't work then I may just get the mainely adapter ring, though a previous poster said that setup makes removing the flywheel difficult due to access.

BTW, my engine core did not have trans mount studs installed, what size should be used?

[timmy2]

wildcat077 Modified his yoke to address this issue.
There are pictures here:
Ebay engine stand Yoke
and here:
Strong enough to lift the engine ?
There are some other posts about clearing the exhaust elsewhere, do a search on wildcat077's posts.
I didn't modify mine but I did switch it from left to right side and back once or twice.

[joetiii]

got it. that helps alot. I did grind to clear the exhaust and monday i will check the oil cooler clearance.

joe

[wildcat077]

Joe,

You need to use two .500 spacers so the yoke doesn't rest right against the oil cooler.With the spacers i was able to remove/install my oil cooler to clean it and change the three seals !
No need to grind too much ...you just have to remove the upper crosspipe bolt and the yoke should clear. Good time to remove all the original bolts and install 5/16 stainless bolts !

Cheers !
Phil

[joetiii]

Joe,



You need to use two .500 spacers so the yoke doesn't rest right against the oil cooler.With the spacers i was able to remove/install my oil cooler to clean it and change the three seals !

No need to grind too much ...you just have to remove the upper crosspipe bolt and the yoke should clear. Good time to remove all the original bolts and install 5/16 stainless bolts !



Cheers !

Phil

Chris, Im a bit apprehensive cutting down the supplied spacer since it would seem that the U shape would not mount with the case surface flat and only relying on the spacers to hold it securely.

I think i'll try grinding the horse shoe to clear the thermo similar to the. Mainely ring adapter and p201

[CabMike]

I used the ebay yoke and the mainely adapter ring together. This gave me plenty of clearance for the flywheel and exhaust while still spreading the load better than spacers.

[coopster]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Yoke from E-bay showed up, fit is good, unit is well built. Fit right into my HF stand no problem. may do some mods to stand so it will lock in place as the HF one doesn't have multi positional locking bolt.

Hey Timmy2,
Please post pics! Thanks