Did some further investigating... instead of the 3M strip caulk, Pelican has the original stuff here. I'll be returning my 3M caulk and purchasing this.

Thanks Daddy Glenn for the investigation! I wonder why it says that this stuff is only for 74 on up on Pelican? Why would that matter and why do you need 5 meters of the stuff? I am not entirely sure this is what I need.

It is listed as needed for the rear quarter windows that are fixed from 74+. If you click on the "More info" link, I think it shows other years.

It is used several other places like the length of both front fenders. 5 meters is probably just the standard packaging. But, I could see needing 3 meters just for the fenders.

I just ordered the stuff for my fenders on Monday and didn't realize that it would also work for the quarter windows. Thanks for the tip!!

you will want to protect the motor very carefully from the painting operations - including the trans. vent -- don't ask me how I know

ask the painter if he can spray a bit around the lip towards the motor - that way it will be easier for you to paint in there when you do drop it

or... just drop it now, then put it back when you get the car back - it is a nearly trivial operation with 2 people

For 69 the engine compartment was painted black so I would not want the painter to spray over the lip. I will simply tape off the entire engine compartment and the two holes where the wiring harness goes out into the quarters. I have some practice at this since I did it two days ago for blasting. During blasting I also made sure to cover the air cleaner intake. After blasting I spent 1 hour cleaning up the engine compartment with an air hose and a vacuum cleaner to make sure no media gets sucked into the engine.

Day 50: Huge progress to report today!!!!:D I was able to lay down the primer over all of the blasted surfaces before heading in to work for Friday meetings. I was able to shoot in the rear quarters by setting the fan width knob on my spray gun to zero and shooting at a distance. I think it turned out great. I am planning on shooting on more coat into the wheel wells and then spraying the 3M undercoating. I also have to finish a little bit of grinding near the rear passenger seat. Once that is done I will reassemble for block sanding. I am currently haggling with the body shop and I think I can get them to do the sanding and final paint for a reasonable price and I might go that route instead of sanding myself. Once reassembly begins I will need some help and advice doing fiberglass fitting for the front bumper. I will post on that later. here are pictures of the progress from yesterday.

Metal prepped using the PPG metal cleaner and metal prep. Check out the zinc coating!!:)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718540.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718579.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718606.jpg

Primer applied to door jambs, vin plate area and gas flap!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718670.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718690.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718713.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718732.jpg

Day 50 cont: Rear signal housing, wheel wells, and driver C pillar in primer

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718892.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718942.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347718979.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719012.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347719041.jpg

Now I am off to the garage to do some more work in the wheel wells, paint the rear of the gas flap and torsion covers, paint the inside of the rear license plate panel and do the final grinding on the interior!!!

Kristoph,
This is looking great. I'm very impressed by how much you have been able to accomplish in such a short time. The Rat is really going to be a sweet car. Like the tag says: '69 six, pretty good Porsche :)
DG

Thanks Obi Wan!! You are the one that inspired this insanity:D

Day 51: Today was the last day of shooting primer. Here I am all pumped up to be done with primer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347755624.jpg

I shot primer around the front window frame, rear passenger seat area, in the rear wheel wells again, and on the rear panel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347755701.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347755722.jpg

Once I was done I cleaned out the gun and put all of my painting/rust treatment stuff away. It will come out again when I drop the engine to replace the clutch sometime in the future.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347755818.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347755840.jpg

Day 51 cont: Once I got the primer shot I had a great idea. I remembered that I had an extra flexible nozzle for a rattle can that came with the two cans of internal panel coating I used to shoot the inside of the rockers. Since I had the extra nozzle I went to Autozone and bought some rattle can primer to shoot into the hard to reach areas in the rear wheel wells near the engine. After I let the primer dry I used the same method to shoot the 3M undercoating into the hard to reach areas.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756165.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756190.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756216.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756240.jpg

Once I had shot the undercoating I started to reassemble the car for final sanding!! The Rat is starting to look like a Porsche again.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756476.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756506.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756536.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756565.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347756609.jpg

Day 51: Today I was able to get the rear bumpers and license plate panel fitted!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347839762.jpg

Hi guys! I am getting to the final stages before paint and I need some help/advice. First, I am debating whether to replace all of the fasteners for reassembly with stainless steel. For the temporary assembly I have been using the original nuts and bolts but I don't like the idea of putting these back in permanently. If I clean them up and paint them the paint will come off and they will rust again. What do you guys think?

Second, I need some advice on how to fit a fiberglass bumper. My experience with fiberglass is zero and I was not able to find a whole lot using the search here. Overall, I think my bumper is going to fit well but the brackets that attach to the body are off by 25 to 30 degrees. I think that this might be on purpose so that the bumper can be fitted to each car individually. Is there a way to get these brackets to line up? Maybe the fiberglass brackets need to be cut and redone? I have attached a few pictures that might elucidate my problem

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347885457.jpg

In the next pictures I have drawn in the axis at which the brackets would fit

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347885508.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347885539.jpg

We really going head to head with our restoration. :) The difference is that you sprayed the primer, i used E-coat (KTL) as a primer. I'm a bit lazy to spray :)

Before E-coat primer:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347889997.jpg

About 1 hour later:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347890043.jpg

What will be your next step? I will follow you! ;)

My next step is to get the front fiberglass bumper mounted. Once that is completed she goes to the painter!! Your car is looking great!!

Kristoph,

My personal experience with fiberglass is somewhat limited but I have been around it quite a bit watching my brother and uncle work on their sailboats. My opinion: it's easy enough to cut the flanges back (maybe flush with the edge of the bumper?) and then glass new ones on to the remaining material. You should be able to get a finished product that fits well and is super strong with out mangling the finished surfaces.

What I've learned from watching is that you want to make sure your cloth is fully wetted out before the epoxy (or polyester or whatever 2-part you use) kicks off... conversely, you don't want it to wet... Too wet or too dry and you wind up with weak structure.

Ideally, if can use mold release or some material to act as a mold release between the wet fiberglass and the brackets on the car, you may be able to use the car itself as a jig. Otherwise, you may want to build a simple jig out of 2-bys or something to set the distance and angle you need.

As a boat owner, you probably know that West Marine isn't the cheapest on prices but they usually have pretty knowledgeable folks that can talk you through the correct materials for the 2-part, cloth, release, and clean-up for your application.

Hope that helps!

Oh, and I vote for stainless :)

Kristoph,
That is the problem with virtually all fibreglass parts; some modification required. But FG is remarkably easy to work with (though messy and irritating, and Anna won't let you in the house for a couple days because of the smell) .

I think 95avblm3 has it right, and you are going to have to cut the old brackets off and glass on new ones in the correct location. If I remember though, some of these I have used in the past used the brackets from the stock bumper bolted into a plate glassed into the new bumper. Give it some engineering thought and see what you can dream up. Class project?

I vote against stainless. Your original fasteners are, well, original! The correct length and strength for each application. Plus the nice head markings. If you go stainless, who knows what you'll get. Having bought a bunch of stainless hardware (for Langemann gate projects) I can tell you that unless you spring for mil-spec ($$$$), its a complete crap shoot. Virtually all SS today is coming out of China, and QC is apparently non-existent. We've put some stainless in the water that actually corroded faster than mild steel! Gerald Robinson has had some similar experiences and could tell you more. With quality all over the map, I'd expect strength/failure issues too.

Better to stick with that old quality German steel. Lay everything out on the garage floor next to the carefully labeled baggies you have. Take a bunch of pictures. Then toss it all unceremoniously in a 5 gallon bucket. Take bucket down to the plating shop and have it all yellow zinced. Or cad if you can find it. Or some other pretty color if you prefer. In the process they will clean and de-rust the fasteners and get them back to you in pretty decent shape. Then you dump the bucket out and spend a couple days sorting back into your carefully marked baggies. Your slave child, oops, I mean Paduan apprenctice, would probably be useful for this. It will cost less to do this than buying all those SS chinese fasteners of dubious quality. A dab of grease or "never-seez" on fasteners during re-assembly is always a nice touch.

DG

For some reason I had trim screws and non-structural fasteners on the mind when I voted for stainless. I have to say that I agree here ^^^ on the structural stuff. If you know of a shop that does good anodize work, they will often zinc-plate. I have been pondering attempting my own zinc plating when the time comes... it looks relatively simple in process but one hurdle that I can see needing to overcome is handling and proper disposal of the chemicals. That may be an issue.