yet another CIS hard start.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by rching

Is there another place to hook up pressure if I have no Brake Booster? I saw where someone ran a hose into the throttle body and taped it all up. Is there a better option? This is on a 73.5 T. Thanks

Randy,

There are several places or connections to introduce compressed gas/air into the system namely:
1). Brake booster vacuum line connection by the air box.
2). Throttle body
3). Oil cap
4). Injector hole
5). Pop off valve
6). Vacuum line
7). Spark plug hole
8). Exhaust/muffler
9). Others

Choose a convenient spot and plug the other orifices to maintain a positive pressure inside the engine/system during the test. A constant supply of low pressure air/gas between 2 - 3 psi is sufficient to locate these hard to find air leaks.

Tony

[rching]

Thanks Tony!
Been busy trying to get my CIS in order. It was running so good and all of a sudden it went crazy. So all the things I was procrastinating doing, I've been doing. All fuel lines replaced, fuel pump, check valve, injectors cleaned, new seals, accumulator and fuel filter, plugs, wires, points, cap and rotor,..... Ready to check fuel pressures but want to find and fix all vacuum leaks. Thanks Pelicans! Really!
A couple of pics of injectors I did with carb cleaner and Ultrasonic. I've been documenting everything so here's my chance to post a couple of pics.
: {)

[rching]

I cut off the end of those metal brushes, put a slot in it and used that to hold the pintle on the injectors open while running it in carb cleaner in the ultrasonic.
Last picture is a piece of a dental tool I was using to pull out the injector seals. It broke off and fell in the injector hole! Crap! ( Well I was thinking worse!) I used a magnet on the end of a drill bit, stuck it into the hole and I'll be dipped in..... It came out! Whoo hoooo! You know what that felt like!!!!

[67flat4]

Here is the tool I used to pull the injector sleeves. Just put some bends in some wire. worked great. had to really yank on 2 of them too.
So the update is the air box has been pulled, my box has the internal cold start manifold. Will the replacement from the host come with it? or will i need to split and swap?
I found some cut wiring I'm not sure were it goes. I'll snap a pic later. It comes out of the harness were the WUR hook up and the power to the heater blower. come from. It's a brown wire and a red with white line? anyone know what that could be.

[rching]

I got around to looking for air leaks and the only place was at the decel valve. Thanks for all the info on how to do it. Ended up taking the car to Frank Hanrahan. He hooked it up to check CO and it was past 10%. It's suppose to be 1.5 - 2 %. Even though I thought all my injectors were fine, one was bad. I did the ultrasonic cleaning and watching their flow in glass jars but obviously I'm not a professional and still missed my #5 not misting like it should. New injector and mixture adjust while hooked up to see CO and it's running so sweet. I didn't solve the problem to the end, but did get my fuel hoses replaced along with a lot of other parts that were 38 or 39 years old! Learned a lot too!
Thanks Frank and Pelicans.

[67flat4]

Here are the mystery wires?
I think it gets hooked up to this? anyone with a smog pump know what this is supposed to do. Can I delete it and just hook the hose up and bypass?
found the bushings missing on the throttle plate and a hose that is cracking. The air box has been repaired prior so I think instead of another repair its time for a new one. Has anyone ordered a new one does it come with the cold start manifold? the one I removed had it and would like to replace it with one that has it as well.
Thanks

[67flat4]

Got some time to work on it again. Still not sure what the extra wires are for haven't started to check power there yet. So the AAR is not opening fully? haven't found much on the search maybe searching for the wrong thing. but anyway here is is after 20 hours in the freezer.

it was at the same spot when I put it in the freeze too.
I'll be checking if it closes here in a while. I did verify it moves with power but that was all. So is it supposed to open all the way?

[Vereeken]

You might want to spent some time with your AAR

Look at my thread
Euro SC troubleshooting over

I do not know what the temp outside was before you put it in the freezer but that AAR could be stuck open.

[67flat4]

Well I spent the weekend working on the Porsche. I ended up repairing the air box. I did test the box prior to installing and found 2 leaks so after those were repaired in it went. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be with so many people saying an engine drop is needed. I can say it is not needed nor would I have just so some hose clamps can be the facing same as factory.
My first drive after everything was together I said to myself "Now that is what it's supposed to sound like."
The AAR was torn apart. After some tinkering I realized that drilling the rivets was not needed and that just punching the pins back and forth was able to adjust the AAR. Its still out of adjustment as my cold idle is 3k but its a trial and error at this point.
I would like to thank the Pelican community for their assistance. All of the information I needed and used came from the board.
now to get it hooked to an exhaust sniffer and then smog tested. (fingers crossed)
Its been off the road for 3+ years. And now back on the road.

[Vereeken]

Great job. I too have dismantled my CIS system with the engine in the car.

I would call it do-able: not easy ;o)

What I do not understand is that you dismantle your CIS but not your AAR. Drilling the 4 rivets IS easy !
What you are doing by knocking its plug is correct but you are now guessing.

I would open it and put it on a 13,5 volt source (that is important as mine did not close 100% with a simple battery given 11.8 or so.).
Put it in the freezer for 1 hour. You should see full opening. Apply straight away 13,5v and it should be 100% closed in about 5 minutes.

If you have 3K idle that is too much. I suspect it is also not closing 100% even after engine heat got to it, so your mixture and idle setting is based on an AAR that allows air through (I know it is metered air but it is still extra air that would otherwise not be able to pass the throttle valve.)

Good luck!

Michel

[timmy2]

The brass ”plug” is the only adjustable part. The large aluminum one is just a plug and adjusts nothing.
I drilled and tapped the brass rod that supports and positions the bimetallic strip on my aar to make it adjustable like an adjustable wur..

[67flat4]

I did verify that it was closing all the way before I even messed with the adjustments. car runs great warm. just high idle cold.
I fallowed Auxiliary Air Regulatory Adjustment
for the adjustment and believe I too have "over shot the adjustment" I will have to remove the AAR to make the adjustment. Do you guys want pics of the step by step. (Haven't seen any on here yet). but the link above describes it well enough.
I can even redo the removal of the cap to show how to get to the plug out to be able to see the nut.

Vereeken- I did remove the rivets but it wasn't needed as the adjustment is at the other end. just letting future readers know it's not needed.

timmy2-I'm not going to go so far as to make it adjustable once its set it should good as its a press fit.

[timmy2]

I made mine adjustable so I could tweak it with the car running at cold idle. When I opened mine I found a portion of the bimetallic strip had a groove worn in it. Ergo the need to adjust.

[Vereeken]

A couple of photo's would be great for other people if you have the time.

I remember I scratched my head on how to remove the plug....

For what it is worth my bimetallic spring wouldn't hold for more then a couple of heat cycles and I had to replace it...i think the metal gets tired.

Seems you have arrived!

Michel

[timmy2]

Did you replace the bimetallic strip or the entire AAR?
If the strip, where did you source it?

[timmy2]

Here are some pictures of the easy mod to adjust the brass plug (adjusting the tension of the bimetallic strip) and of the inside of the AAR.
Also a shot of the little worn spot on the bimetallic strip. (Blurry but you can see it)

[Vereeken]

I only replaced the bi metallic strip. I think it came of a Volkswagen Golf from the early 80s.
I just looked for the same resistance.

I see you have again another shape of hole in the AAR. I can not believe how many different types of holes in the AAR exist. I have seen at least 4 different sizes and contours.

Michel