First Timer - New Clutch Replacement

[vesnyder]

Wanted to check with the board before I purchased the parts to replace my clutch in my '83 SC. It is due and since I pulled the motor I thought now was a good time. What all parts should I buy? I do not want to replace more than I have to since I spent way too much on the SSI's and muffler but do not want to have to pull the motor again anytime soon. Getting conflicting stories and wanted to hear from the forum.

Any other tips are welcome.

Thanks in advance!

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Well, strictly speaking you don't have to replace anything.

If you buy half, the other half will fail and you will be pulling the motor again.

If you buy the lot it will cost more...

Pick your poison.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Pilot shaft bearing, crank seal at the flywheel, main shaft seal. TOB release fork. Flywheel and throw out bearing guide tube are the big questions; must see them, then decide.

If they haven't been replaced in recent memory: Oil pressure warning switch, thermostat o-ring, throttle lever bushings, injector sleeves/o-rings, crank breather hoses.

Then to top it all off, a new, o.e., clutch cable, clevis, clevis pin, and clevis pin bushing. And new seals for the release fork shaft.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

TOB release fork.

Listen to Peter on all of his recommendations.

I had not thought of the fork, but Mayo, who rebuilt my trans strongly advised that I replace this for insurance. So that is two professional sources recommending this. Do it.

Peter, you did not recommend replacing the flywheel bolts. Is that a requirement?

Edit - I would have the flywheel ground even if it looks good.

[markivtruck]

check clevis end on clutch cable at pedal assy. and shaft it connects to for wear.

[vesnyder]

Good stuff guys. Thanks!

[gregwils]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Pilot shaft bearing, crank seal at the flywheel, main shaft seal. TOB release fork. Flywheel and throw out bearing guide tube are the big questions; must see them, then decide.

If they haven't been replaced in recent memory: Oil pressure warning switch, thermostat o-ring, throttle lever bushings, injector sleeves/o-rings, crank breather hoses.

Then to top it all off, a new, o.e., clutch cable, clevis, clevis pin, and clevis pin bushing. And new seals for the release fork shaft.

This is what I would do too, it's a little extra money, but you will end up with a nice new, sweet-feeling clutch that will perform well for many miles.

[dentist90]

+1 on the release fork. I reused mine when I replaced the clutch components 35,000km ago. It cracked this year and I am back in there again.

As far as the flywheel bolts, I have reused mine twice now. I have heard them referred to as stretch bolts, but they are only torqued to 67 ft-lbs and they are stout little fellas. I thought stretch bolts were torqued to a specific value and then turned an additional 1/4 turn to deform (stetch) them.

[gregwils]

Flywheel bolts are $25. There are lots of opportunities to minimize cost, but a 10lb steel plate spinning at 5,000 rpm isn't it. The standard rule that pretty much everyone accepts is flywheel bolts are replace 100% of the time.

[Eagledriver]

On a 6 bolt flywheel, I'd invest in the new bolts. The 9 bolt flywheel (the poster has this) stays on much better. I'd feel very safe reusing these bolts with a visual inspection.

-Andy

[rusnak]

Your second engine drop will be much easier than the first.

I know what I'd do (pilot bearing, engine seal, clean TO shaft, new flywheel bolts, pres switch and thermostat o-ring).

What makes you think the clutch disc is bad?