Trying to reinstall clutch slave on G50 after engine drop

[crb33]

Just getting engine back in after first drop. I had oil leaks that needed to be addressed. I am having a problem getting clutch slave to line up. Not sure if it should be over or under throttle linkage post on trans. I may have bent it. Any photos would help. Thanks Chris.

[jclporsche]

Just happen to have mine up in the air now. The clutch hydr line goes over the throttle linkage.

[crb33]

Thank you. That helps a lot. I will give it a go to to tonight

[john walker's workshop]

if you can, reach over the top of the engine while it's still lowered a bit and squeeze the slave into place. have a nut ready. way easier than doing it from underneath.

[crb33]

It was a PITA. First time I missed the indent on clutch fork and pedal went to floor. I got it second time. Thanks again for all help

[burgermeister]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

if you can, reach over the top of the engine while it's still lowered a bit and squeeze the slave into place. have a nut ready. way easier than doing it from underneath.

That never occurred to me - thanks!!!

I've been attaching it from below, with the engine lowered 4-5" - still a PITA, but at least possible. I'll get a chance to try the over & above method in a week or so ...

[burgermeister]

Tried the "from above" method - turned an hour long chore into a 5 minute "done". Thanks John!!!

[KTL]

Yep. Take advantage of the rubber section of hose in the clutch line and do your work where you can reach it. Also, you can bleed the clutch with the engine in the lowered position as well. That teeny tiny bleeder nipple is a real pain from underneath with the trans in final position. The bleeder only requires a small amount of loosening to leak brake fluid all over the top of the trans!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by KTL

Yep. Take advantage of the rubber section of hose in the clutch line and do your work where you can reach it. Also, you can bleed the clutch with the engine in the lowered position as well. That teeny tiny bleeder nipple is a real pain from underneath with the trans in final position. The bleeder only requires a small amount of loosening to leak brake fluid all over the top of the trans!

Kevin,

While I have dropped and removed the 915 trans with engine several times in the past, I'll be doing a G50 for the first time. Since I've never worked with a clutch saver before, any suggestion or tips you could share with us would be highly appreciated. I'm dropping the engine/trans to inspect the clutch disc and clean the engine and trans.

Do I need to break the hydraulic line to the clutch saver or removed the complete clutch saver assembly to get the engine/trans off the car? Thanks.

Tony

[Deadeye]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Kevin,

While I have dropped and removed the 915 trans with engine several times in the past, I'll be doing a G50 for the first time. Since I've never worked with a clutch saver before, any suggestion or tips you could share with us would be highly appreciated. I'm dropping the engine/trans to inspect the clutch disc and clean the engine and trans.

Do I need to break the hydraulic line to the clutch saver or removed the complete clutch saver assembly to get the engine/trans off the car? Thanks.

Tony

Tony,
If I understand your question, leave the slave cylinder connected and in the chassis when you remove the engine.

[KTL]

Yep you can just leave the line connected to the hard line coming out of the chassis wall. No reason to disconnect it because it flexes (rubber section).

When you get the drivetrain down low enough you can unbolt the slave from the top of the trans and un-snap the section of steel line that is clipped to the trans. Then just tie it up on the chassis somewhere with some zip ties.

Before you reinstall the drivetrain, you might want to bleed the clutch system. You can do that w/out having the slave attached to the trans. Just use minimum pressure 10-15 psi on the pressure bleeder. Whatever you do, DO NOT press the clutch pedal with the slave disconnected from the trans. Pushing the clutch pedal will blow the pushrod off the end of the slave.

Honestly the toughest part of the G50 work is often times the clutch release fork cross shaft. Sometimes it can be a real bear to remove. You might have to cook up a small slide hammer or puller arrangement to get the shaft out. Also shoot some penetrating lube in there as well as applying some heat to help coax it out.